Everest | 1991 SW Face
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1991 via SW Face, led by Kunaiki Yagihara. Summit reached on 21st December 1991. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1071 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER91401 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1991 |
| Season | 4 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kunaiki Yagihara |
| Sponsor | Gunma Mountaineering Federation Winter Mt. Sagarmantha SW Face Exp. |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1991-11-11 |
| Summit Date | 1991-12-21 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 94 |
| Termination Date | 1992-02-13 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8350m due to wind and Sherpas not willing to carry oxygen to C5 |
| High Point (m) | 8350 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2800 |
| Total Members | 18 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 25 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | All 19 atop Pokalde |
| Campsites | BC(11/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6020m),C2(02/12,6500m),C3(05/12,6900m),C4(11/12,7600m),C5(08/01,8350m),xxx(21/12,8350m) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Cwm C3 at start of Lhotse Face C4 on Lhotse Face C5 on Lhotse Face High poin at SW Face. Started on icefall 16th: icefall very bad condition, seracs falling daily and had to make route everyday (had 4 icefall Sherpas). 3 Sherpas to C5 - no snow in Icefall or Cwm; only 1-2 cm snowfall - only hard ice. C2 made quickly after C1 because Koreans made route C1->C3 - snow cover. 21st Dec 2 members reached C4 site but very strong wind and tent poles broken when tried to pitch tent. After C5 attempt all down to BC for rest, then up again 1 Jan after strong winds abated. Every tent broken, sound of jet plane, tents lifted up, very difficult to stand when winds very strong, even sometimes at BC - and C2 10 tents, C3 2 tents, C4 1 tent, C1 4 tents, BC many tents; at BC 2 tents broken, C2 broken and 8 poles bent, C3 2 broken, C4 1 tent broken. 8th Jan C5 pitched by 2 members but 9th strong wind and down to C2. 15th Jan again 1 to C5 2 members but again down to C1 next day because of winds. By now 10 members and 10 Sherpas had reached C5 (3 Sherpas to C5 made 10 carries). 16 and 17th Jan all members to BC and rest and waiting for better weather. 25th Jan up again and 29th Jan 5 members tried to reach C5, 2 members got there but they also back to C4 on 6th Feb, but 7th Feb back to C2 because wind and because snow fall. After 2 days waiting at C2, decided to give up: no more oxygen in C5 and Sherpas not willing to carry loads of oxygen up to C5. If they would support members, we would have tried to make route above C5 to attack summit. Sherpas no longer keen to climb. Took 82 oxygen cylinders - 14 tons cargo to Lukla. Rope fixed - in icefall Japanese and Koreans fixed half and half. C2-C3 bottom face above - 500m C3-C4 - 1200m C4-C5 - 1100m _______ 2800m Before expedition Yagihara had 3 fears: cold, wind, falling stones but only wind was problem - not so much cold, not so much stone. |
| Accidents | 3 frostbite but not loss, 1 member 3cm cut from stonefall on cheek |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Cosmo Treks |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450783 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tsuyoshi Akiyama | M | 1970 | Japan | Climber | Tsukiyono, Tone, Gunma, Japan | Surveying equipment salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinsuki Ezuka | M | 1961 | Japan | Climber | Isesaki, Gunma, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Fumiaki Goto | M | 1965 | Japan | Climber | Sakai, Gunma, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuhiro Hashimoto | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Hakuraku, Kanagawa, Japan | Construction company staff | Details Other expeditions |
| Hikaru Hoshino | M | 1932 | Japan | General Leader | Numata, Gunma, Japan | Construction company managing director | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryushi Hoshino | M | 1967 | Japan | Climber | Kurohone, Seta-gun, Gunma, Japan | Advertising company staff member | Details Other expeditions |
| Fumie Kimura | F | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Kiryu, Gunma, Japan | Sports shop employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Hirofumi Konishi | M | 1962 | Japan | Climber | Kodaira, Tokyo, Japan | Does odd jobs like cleaning windows & mtn equipment | Details Other expeditions |
| Noriyuki Matsuzaki | M | 1967 | Japan | Climber | Yabutsuka-Honmachi, Nitta, Gunma, Japan | Engineer in printing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Yutaka Nagakubo | M | 1962 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff photographer of sports newspaper | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideji Nazuka | M | 1954 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Gardener | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryuzo Oda | M | 1962 | Japan | Climber | Chofu, Tokyo, Japan | Window cleaner | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshio Ogata | M | 1948 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Kodaira, Tokyo, Japan | Himalayan Association of Japan staff member | Details Other expeditions |
| Mitsuyoshi Sato | M | 1961 | Japan | Climber | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Soft drinks salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Osamu Tanabe | M | 1961 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Aichi, Japan | Construction company staff | Details Other expeditions |
| Kuniaki Yagihara | M | 1946 | Japan | Leader | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Travel agency director | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideki Yoshida | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Tetsuaki Yoshimura | M | 1961 | Japan | Climber | Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
References
10 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER91401 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 66:205-206 (1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | JAC | Ogata, Yoshio | Japan Gunma Winter Sagarmatha South-West Face Expedition 1991-92 | - | 87:A32-34 (1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | HJ | Ogata, Yoshio | Sagarmatha Southwest Face Expedition 1991-1992 | - | 49:179-182 (1991-1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | - | Gunma-ken Mountaineering Union | Sagarmatha: Southwest Face in Winter | By expedition, Maebashi, Japan | - | - |
| EVER91401 | MM | - | - | - | 144:5 (Mar 1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | IM | Ogata, Yoshio | Japan Gunma Winter Mt. Everest SW Face Expedition 1991-92 | - | 28:40-42 (1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | JAC | Ogata, Yoshio | Japan Gunma Winter Sagarmatha South-West Face Expedition 1991-92 | - | 87:98-103 (1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | IWA | - | - | - | :215 (1992) | - |
| EVER91401 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220505/Asia-Nepal-Everest-South-Face-Winter-Attempt-1991-2 | - | - | - |
| EVER91401 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/49/23/sagarmatha-southwest-face-expedition-1991-1992/ | - | - | - |