Everest | 1991 SW Face

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1991 via SW Face, led by Kunaiki Yagihara. Summit reached on 21st December 1991. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1071
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91401
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kunaiki Yagihara
Sponsor Gunma Mountaineering Federation Winter Mt. Sagarmantha SW Face Exp.
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-11-11
Summit Date 1991-12-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 94
Termination Date 1992-02-13
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8350m due to wind and Sherpas not willing to carry oxygen to C5
High Point (m) 8350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 2800
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 25
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits All 19 atop Pokalde
Campsites BC(11/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6020m),C2(02/12,6500m),C3(05/12,6900m),C4(11/12,7600m),C5(08/01,8350m),xxx(21/12,8350m)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Cwm C3 at start of Lhotse Face C4 on Lhotse Face C5 on Lhotse Face High poin at SW Face. Started on icefall 16th: icefall very bad condition, seracs falling daily and had to make route everyday (had 4 icefall Sherpas). 3 Sherpas to C5 - no snow in Icefall or Cwm; only 1-2 cm snowfall - only hard ice. C2 made quickly after C1 because Koreans made route C1->C3 - snow cover. 21st Dec 2 members reached C4 site but very strong wind and tent poles broken when tried to pitch tent. After C5 attempt all down to BC for rest, then up again 1 Jan after strong winds abated. Every tent broken, sound of jet plane, tents lifted up, very difficult to stand when winds very strong, even sometimes at BC - and C2 10 tents, C3 2 tents, C4 1 tent, C1 4 tents, BC many tents; at BC 2 tents broken, C2 broken and 8 poles bent, C3 2 broken, C4 1 tent broken. 8th Jan C5 pitched by 2 members but 9th strong wind and down to C2. 15th Jan again 1 to C5 2 members but again down to C1 next day because of winds. By now 10 members and 10 Sherpas had reached C5 (3 Sherpas to C5 made 10 carries). 16 and 17th Jan all members to BC and rest and waiting for better weather. 25th Jan up again and 29th Jan 5 members tried to reach C5, 2 members got there but they also back to C4 on 6th Feb, but 7th Feb back to C2 because wind and because snow fall. After 2 days waiting at C2, decided to give up: no more oxygen in C5 and Sherpas not willing to carry loads of oxygen up to C5. If they would support members, we would have tried to make route above C5 to attack summit. Sherpas no longer keen to climb. Took 82 oxygen cylinders - 14 tons cargo to Lukla. Rope fixed - in icefall Japanese and Koreans fixed half and half. C2-C3 bottom face above - 500m C3-C4 - 1200m C4-C5 - 1100m _______ 2800m Before expedition Yagihara had 3 fears: cold, wind, falling stones but only wind was problem - not so much cold, not so much stone.
Accidents 3 frostbite but not loss, 1 member 3cm cut from stonefall on cheek
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450783
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tsuyoshi Akiyama M 1970 Japan Climber Tsukiyono, Tone, Gunma, Japan Surveying equipment salesman Details Other expeditions
Shinsuki Ezuka M 1961 Japan Climber Isesaki, Gunma, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Fumiaki Goto M 1965 Japan Climber Sakai, Gunma, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiro Hashimoto M 1954 Japan Climber Hakuraku, Kanagawa, Japan Construction company staff Details Other expeditions
Hikaru Hoshino M 1932 Japan General Leader Numata, Gunma, Japan Construction company managing director Details Other expeditions
Ryushi Hoshino M 1967 Japan Climber Kurohone, Seta-gun, Gunma, Japan Advertising company staff member Details Other expeditions
Fumie Kimura F 1955 Japan Climber Kiryu, Gunma, Japan Sports shop employee Details Other expeditions
Hirofumi Konishi M 1962 Japan Climber Kodaira, Tokyo, Japan Does odd jobs like cleaning windows & mtn equipment Details Other expeditions
Noriyuki Matsuzaki M 1967 Japan Climber Yabutsuka-Honmachi, Nitta, Gunma, Japan Engineer in printing company Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Nagakubo M 1962 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff photographer of sports newspaper Details Other expeditions
Hideji Nazuka M 1954 Japan Climbing Leader Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Gardener Details Other expeditions
Ryuzo Oda M 1962 Japan Climber Chofu, Tokyo, Japan Window cleaner Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Ogata M 1948 Japan Deputy Leader Kodaira, Tokyo, Japan Himalayan Association of Japan staff member Details Other expeditions
Mitsuyoshi Sato M 1961 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Soft drinks salesman Details Other expeditions
Osamu Tanabe M 1961 Japan Climber Nagoya, Aichi, Japan Construction company staff Details Other expeditions
Kuniaki Yagihara M 1946 Japan Leader Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Travel agency director Details Other expeditions
Hideki Yoshida M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Tetsuaki Yoshimura M 1961 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:205-206 (1992) -
EVER91401 JAC Ogata, Yoshio Japan Gunma Winter Sagarmatha South-West Face Expedition 1991-92 - 87:A32-34 (1992) -
EVER91401 HJ Ogata, Yoshio Sagarmatha Southwest Face Expedition 1991-1992 - 49:179-182 (1991-1992) -
EVER91401 - Gunma-ken Mountaineering Union Sagarmatha: Southwest Face in Winter By expedition, Maebashi, Japan - -
EVER91401 MM - - - 144:5 (Mar 1992) -
EVER91401 IM Ogata, Yoshio Japan Gunma Winter Mt. Everest SW Face Expedition 1991-92 - 28:40-42 (1992) -
EVER91401 JAC Ogata, Yoshio Japan Gunma Winter Sagarmatha South-West Face Expedition 1991-92 - 87:98-103 (1992) -
EVER91401 IWA - - - :215 (1992) -
EVER91401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220505/Asia-Nepal-Everest-South-Face-Winter-Attempt-1991-2 - - -
EVER91401 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/49/23/sagarmatha-southwest-face-expedition-1991-1992/ - - -