Everest | 1991 Khumbutse-W Ridge (to 7699m)

A Poland expedition to Everest in 1991 via Khumbutse-W Ridge (to 7699m), led by Alexander Lwow. Summit reached on 2nd October 1991. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 600
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91307
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Khumbutse-W Ridge (to 7699m)
Route 2 S Col-SE Ridge (to 6700m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Alexander Lwow
Sponsor Polish Jack Wolfskin Everest Expedition 1991
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Germany, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-09-02
Summit Date 1991-10-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 44
Termination Date 1991-10-16
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to wind
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Khumbutse
Campsites BC(02/09,5450m),C1(18/09,5950m),C2(24/09,6900m),C3(02/10,7600m),xxx(02/10,7600m)
Route Notes BC at bottom of Icefall C1 at Rongbuk Glacier below Khumbutse and below North Spur from West Shoulder C2 about 250m below West Shoulder C3 at east end of West Shoulder High point at West Shoulder. Started fixing route on 4th Sept and finished it 18th Sept: same route as successful Poles 1989 Spring up over Khumbutse and down couloir to Banglark glacier, using 1500m of rope. From C1 fixed rope from bottom of N Spur to middle of spur. C2 placed in crevasse for protection from strong winds. Climbing shoulder very difficult because half-meter deep powder snow. 3 Oct went down according to plan: returned to 7200m on 11th Oct, but couldn't reach C3 because of wind and abandoned attempt on W Ridge and expedition ended. 2 members left BC 5 Oct (had had enough), one member left 13 Oct (Lwow had decided expedition finished) and last 2 members left BC 17 Oct. On 15 Oct Lwow and Klimine of USSR-US expedition left BC and reached 6700m (USSR-US C2) on the normal route, slept there and 16th brought down equipment. Lwow had hoped to go on up but wind of 15/16 night and 16th morning prevented upward climb so now on 16th Lwow abandoned Everest. Lwow says German nor any member of this team climbed Pumori, but Mal Duff says one member did about 1 Oct.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Atlas
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450703
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) khumbutse-w ridge (to 7699m)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bernard Erdtracht M 1953 Germany Exp Doctor Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany - Details Other expeditions
Thor Kieser M 1958 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aleksander Lwow M 1953 Poland Leader Wroclaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Thomas D. Mackeyka M 1956 USA Climber Arvada, Colorado Engineer Details Other expeditions
David R. Reeder M 1955 USA Climber Parker, Colorado Contractor Details Other expeditions
Piotr Snopczynski M 1950 Poland Climber Swidnica, Poland Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Zajac M 1951 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Air-conditioning technician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91307 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:205 (1992) -
EVER91307 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220503/Asia-Nepal-Everest-West-Ridge-and-South-Col-Attempt - - -