Everest | 1991 N Col-NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Muneo Nukita. Summit reached on 27th May 1991. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 781
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91116
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Muneo Nukita
Sponsor Japanese Everest
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 126
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1991-04-30
Summit Date 1991-05-27
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 27
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1991-05-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak and Parchamo
Campsites BC(30/04),ABC(03/05,6500m),C1(13/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7800m),C3(26/05,8200m),Smt(27/05)
Route Notes BC at road ABC at North Col C1 at North Col C2 on North Ridge C3 on North Face. 2 members and 1 Sherpa to N Col in April for acclimatization then back to KTM to pick up baggage (20 from France and other items from Japan) and to rest. 27th April left KTM with 5 Sherpas; Chinese customs problem, back to KTM for papers; crossed on 28th and on to BC and ABC on 3rd, which was too fast for Sherpas to acclimatize and sent them back to BC. Decided to cancel highest camps to save time. Down to Shegar on 18th May for rest while Sherpas ferried loads to C2. Returned to BC 20th May and up mountain for ABC 22 May. Left C3 at 1:30 am of 27th and got to top 1 pm; climbed in almost full moonlight and then clear morning with little wind - Futagami little later than others. 1:45 pm started descent in fog in same as reached top. Nukita 150m distant from top with 2 Sherpas just behind, but Phinzo reported did not see Futagami. They returned to summit and found his footprints 20m from summit. Phinzo went to edge and said he saw traces of where body had fallen. Nonetheless left rope fixed case he came back and returned to C3 at 9:30 pm; light flashing all night; left stocked C3. Nukita down on 28th to ABC, 29th to BC and arrived KTM last night while Sherpas are packing up and coming to border 3 June.
Accidents No problem at all until fatal fall, until then 'everything went perfectly'
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450575
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Junichi Futagami M 1951 Japan Climber Sakurayama, Iwate, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Muneo Nukita M 1951 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje (Dorje) Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Phinzo Norbu (Phinzo) Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91116 AAJ Nukita, Muneo - - 66:263 (1992) -
EVER91116 JAC Nukita, Muneo The Experience of Two Climbers on Mt. Qomolangma - 86:76-86 (1991) -
EVER91116 IWA - - - :214 (1992) -
EVER91116 IWA - - - :40-41 (1992) -
EVER91116 - Nukita, Muneo Chomolungma of Two Climbers Yama-To-Kei, Tokyo - jN214
EVER91116 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199226302/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -