Everest | 1991 E Ridge (to NE Ridge)

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1991 via E Ridge (to NE Ridge), led by Shinichi Hirano. Summit reached on 5th May 1991. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 784
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91115
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 E Ridge (to NE Ridge)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shinichi Hirano
Sponsor Meiji University Alpine Club Qomolangma Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->Kharta->BC
Basecamp Date 1991-04-14
Summit Date 1991-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1991-05-16
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to extreme difficulty of route
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,5400m),C1A(26/04,5900m),C1B(02/05,6100m),xxx(05/05,6400m)
Route Notes 1st C1 at Kangshung Glacier 2nd C1 at East Ridge High point at East Ridge. Very difficult and dangerous route to 1st site of C1 which had to place well below snowfield planned for this camp (and where it was later placed): very sharp rock ridge with many snow mushrooms. From 1st to 2nd C1 same problem plus huge crevasse on ridge. Above 2nd C1 more severe problems and took 4 days to reach 6400m; everyday could make only 2 or 3 trips with ice and snow becoming very loose in daytime; sharp ridge with steep ice face. "I don't think it is possible" to climb this ridge in reasonable time and becoming increasingly dangerous with pieces of mushrooms breaking off - even in colder weather would take very long time and Sherpas don't want to climb this route. Would have taken 1 or 2 more months to reach NE Ridge. One member joked they might reach summit by end of the year; stopped climb before some got hit by falling ice or had bad fall. Left BC 16th May. Sent 2 Sherpas to Karta on 7th May to bring porters, who are very difficult people demanding higher and higher wages and want to walk only 2-3 hrs daily.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st attempt of E Ridge
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450553
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge (to ne ridge)

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ryoten Hasegawa M 1947 Japan Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Buddhist monk Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Hirano M 1938 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Printing company owner Details Other expeditions
Manabu Hirose M 1967 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of business administration Details Other expeditions
Takashi Koaze M 1935 Japan Climber Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan Geologist Details Other expeditions
Sadaki Matsumura M 1959 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Nobumi Nakazawa M 1963 Japan Climber Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Shuichi Okazawa M 1949 Japan Climber Yachiyo, Chiba, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Shin Saito M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Tax accountant Details Other expeditions
Fumio Sakamoto M 1944 Japan Climber Uenohara, Kitatsuru, Yamanashi, Japan Hotel owner Details Other expeditions
Tetsuya Sano M 1968 Japan Climber Chofu, Tokyo, Japan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Shimokawa M 1949 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Assistant professor Details Other expeditions
Nobuyuki Takshashi M 1955 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Kozo Takeguchi M 1950 Japan Exp Doctor Akishima, Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91115 AAJ Saito, Shin - - 66:258 (1992) -
EVER91115 JAC Hirano, Shinichi An Attempt on Mt. Qomolangma's Kanxung Ridge - 86:A28 (1991) -
EVER91115 MM - - - 140:5 (Jul 1991) -
EVER91115 JAC Hirano, Shinichi An Attempt on Mt. Qomolangma's Kanxung Ridge - 86:96-103 (1991) -
EVER91115 IWA - - - :214 (1992) -
EVER91115 IWA - - - :41 (1992) -
EVER91115 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199225802/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt-Ridge-on-Northern-Edge-of-Kangshung-Face - - -