Everest | 1991 N Col-NE Ridge (to 8550m)

A Austria expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Col-NE Ridge (to 8550m), led by Marcus Schmuck. Summit reached on 15th May 1991. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 791
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91113
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge (to 8550m)
Route 2 NE Ridge (to 7900m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Marcus Schmuck
Sponsor Austrian Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, Germany, Italy, Switzerland
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1991-04-07
Summit Date 1991-05-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8550m due to wind, destruction of too many tents
High Point (m) 8550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7800m),C3(14/05,8370m),xxx(15/05,8550m)
Route Notes C1 at North Col C3 just below North Ridge High point just below First Step. Very strong wind above col and very cold. 2 members up to 8550m on 15th May in summit bid but cold wind forced retreat and couldn't continue because too many tents destroyed. C2 destroyed 8th May (was 1 tent) and C1 alredy destroyed and replaced by cave. The 2 members left ABC 12 May carrying 20 kg each of all gear needed for summit bid. Team left ABC 16th to leave Tibet and 18th from BC. All members brought their own tents, sleeping bags, etc "just like with Alps." Lang tried to climb new way to N Ridge via couloir directly south of ABC (without going west to N Col and start of N Ridge). Lang was alone. Started from ABC 1 May and reached 7100m in couloir. 2 May got to 7600m and then weather changed dramatically: wind, snow and very cold and could occasionally be seen moving slowly. 3 May got to 7900m still in couloir; died at this biv. No one went to him because of weather. 7th May could again see his biv and a sitting fixed sleeping bag but face not visible. Have given 4 May as date of death but really didn't know when he died; he was good climber but too impatient to wait for good weather (had been to 8550m on Everest via S Col 2-3 years ago on international expedition, had succeeded on Gasherbrum I and II and was now trying to do the summit).
Accidents One fatality (Lang)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450563
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge (to 8550m)

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ingeborg Aufschnaiter F 1943 Austria Climber Hollersbach, Salzburg, Austria - Details Other expeditions
Harald Benzl M - Austria Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Otto Huber M 1940 Germany Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Peter Andreas Kowalzik M 1967 Germany Climber Ludwigshafen, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany - Details Other expeditions
Ruediger Lang M 1956 Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany - Details Other expeditions
Andreas Paul M - Austria Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Georges Piemontesi M 1943 Switzerland Climber Fontaines, Neuchatel, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Johan (Hans) Pree M 1950 Austria Climber Grossraming, Upper Austria, Austria Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Marcus Schmuck M 1925 Austria Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Sebastian (Wastl) Woergoetter M 1937 Austria Climber Saalfelden, Salzburg, Austria - Details Other expeditions
Teresa Zanol F - Italy Climber Italy - Details Other expeditions
Josef (Sepp) Inhoeger M 1960 Austria Climber Bad Gastein, Salzburg, Austria Electrician Details Other expeditions
Martin Hornegger M 1961 Austria Climber Annaberg, Lower Austria, Austria - Details Other expeditions
Johan-Joerg Bachmair M - Austria Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Margita Dina Sterbova F 1940 Czechoslovakia Climber Olomouc, Czechoslovakia University teacher of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Karl Wimmer M 1949 Germany Climber Nordendorf, Bavaria, W Germany - Details Other expeditions
Joerg Wischmann M - Germany Member - - Details Other expeditions
Reinhilde Natterer F 1954 Germany Member - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91113 AAJ Schmuck, Marcus - - 66:259 (1992) -
EVER91113 AAJ - - - 67:286 (1993) -
EVER91113 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199225901/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt-and-Tragedy - - -