Everest | 1991 N Face (Great Couloir)

A Italy expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Oreste Forno. Summit reached on 7th May 1991. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 785
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91111
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Oreste Forno
Sponsor Longoni Sport Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 121
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1991-04-04
Summit Date 1991-05-07
Summit Time 1525
Summit Days 33
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1991-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Four briefly on Changtse
Campsites ChineseBC(04/04),ABC(11/04,5550m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6900m),C3(27/04,7550m),C4(05/05,8350m),Smt(17/05)
Route Notes BC at Rongbuk. De Marchi and De Stefani in 1st summit attempt made biv 7950m 4th May and on 5th reached 8350m and put camp there. 6th May stayed at C4 and on 7th De Stefani got cerebral edema and down that day with help from others. 8th reached C2 with De Stefani barely conscious. 9th to C1, 10th to Swedish ABC and their doctor (De Marchi exhausted and both feet frostbitten; De Stefani also frostbitten toes and will loose parts of 2 fingers). 11th Tibetans carried De Stefani to BC and Jeep took him and Thomaseth (to help him all the way to Italy) while De Marchi stayed at ABC few days longer. On 14th May Banali and Sulovsky to C2, 15th to C3, 16th C4 and same evening fixed 40m above it. 17th left C4 7 am, took 2 hrs on 70m of rocks above (3m of it took most of this time: vertical rock) and Sulovsky on top 3:25 pm and Banali 15-20 minutes later. Weather clear till 2 pm when clouds came over and on top was snowing but no wind; 7 pm back to C4 and on down to C3 at 11 pm with only one ice ax between them (one dropped during ascent). 18th in C1 by 6 pm. 19th all in ABC and 20th in BC. Above 3m vertical route was small couloir also very difficult. Route was much more difficult technically even to C4 than De Stefani expected, but fixed only 70m of rope (above C4).
Accidents 2 serious frostbite cases (De Stefani and De Marchi); 1 cerebral edema (De Stefani)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450555
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Graziano Bianchi M 1937 Italy Climber Erba, Como, Italy Plumber Details Other expeditions
Battistino (Battista) Bonali M 1962 Italy Climber Bienno, Brescia, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Giuliano De Marchi M 1947 Italy Exp Doctor Belluno, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Oreste Forno M 1951 Italy Leader Osnago, Como, Italy Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergio Salini M 1938 Italy Climber Morbegno, Sondrio, Italy Former owner of chain of supermarkets (food stores) Details Other expeditions
Leopold Sulovsky M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Novy Ilan, Czechoslovakia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Thomaseth M 1947 Italy Climber Terlano, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide & cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91111 AAJ Forno, Oreste - - 66:259-260 (1992) -
EVER91111 - Forno, Oreste Everest Parete Nord Massimo Baldini Edtiore, Appiano Gentile, Italy - F137
EVER91111 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199225903/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Great-Couloir - - -