Everest | 1991 NE Ridge (to 8000m)

A UK expedition to Everest in 1991 via NE Ridge (to 8000m), led by Harold Taylor. Summit reached on 22nd May 1991. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 786
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91110
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge (to 8000m)
Route 2 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Harold Taylor
Sponsor High Adventure Team - Everest 1991
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 124
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, France, New Zealand, Norway, USA
Approach KTM->Tingri-Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1991-04-03
Summit Date 1991-05-22
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 49
Total Days 53
Termination Date 1991-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C2A(22/04,7400m),C3A(06/05,8000m),xxx(16/05,8000m); NColRte-C1(18/04,7000m),C2B(06/05,7800m),C3B(14/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
Route Notes BC at road (normal Chinese BC) C1 at North Col C2A on NE Ridge (old C2 site) C3A at foot of Pinnacles on NE Ridge C2B above N Col C3B just below North Ridge. 8th May Barker tried for top from C2 and got to 8400m without oxygen (no members used oxygen) and turned back because too cold and down to C2. On 5th Taylor and Brice to NE Ridge C1 and 16th to C2 at foot of pinnacles. Brice got sick so stayed 17th in camp and 18th down to ABC. This the end of NE Ridge attempt because running short of time. 20th Taylor and Brice to N Ridge C2 with 2 Sherpas and 21st to C3. 22nd made summit bid: Taylor and Brice climbed only 100m and turned back because of cold and 2 Sherpas, Ang Babu (Everest top 1990) and Chuldin, to summit with oxygen at 11:30 am; Sherpas and Taylor down to C2 on 22nd; Brice to ABC. 23rd ABC evacuated and left BC 26th. Terrible winds: of 50-odd tents not one that doesn't need repairs; winds up to 120 km/hr at ABC and lost every tent. Redmond unable to make any attempt at paragliding.
Accidents Lemaire serious frostbite in toes between C2 and C3 on N Ridge
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450570
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge (to 8000m)

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Len Atkinson M 1954 UK Climber Kristiansand, Norway Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
William Geoffrey (Bill) Barker M 1943 UK Climber Dolwyddelen, Gwynedd, Wales Computer analyst Details Other expeditions
Russell Reginald Brice M 1952 New Zealand Deputy Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carati Roland M 1949 New Zealand Member Auckland, New Zealand Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Claudia Dowling F 1950 USA Member New York, New York Journalist Details Other expeditions
John S. C. English M 1955 UK Exp Doctor Stone, Staffordshire, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Alan Charles Hinkes M 1954 UK Deputy Leader Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Alan Hughes M 1950 UK Climber Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Mark Peter Lemaire M 1962 Australia Climber Doncaster, Victoria, Australia Technician Details Other expeditions
Anthony O'Brien M - USA Member Santa Fe, New Mexico Photographer Details Other expeditions
Andrew David (Andy) Parkin M 1954 UK Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Artist (interior decorator & joiner) Details Other expeditions
Xavier Remond M 1959 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Paragliding instructor Details Other expeditions
Sam Roberts M 1945 UK BC Manager Caernarvon, Gwynedd, Wales National park warden Details Other expeditions
Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor M 1958 UK Leader Radley, Oxford, England Expedition organizer Details Other expeditions
Olav Storli Ulvund M 1960 Norway Climber Hvfilstad, Norway Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Steven Untch M 1956 USA Climber Green Valley Lake, California Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chuldin Temba (Chuldim) Sherpa M 1962 Nepal H-A Worker Zarok, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91110 AAJ Untch, Steven - - 66:262-263 (1992) -
EVER91110 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199226200/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt-and-North-Ridge-Ascent - - -