Everest | 1991 NE Ridge (to 8000m)
A UK expedition to Everest in 1991 via NE Ridge (to 8000m), led by Harold Taylor. Summit reached on 22nd May 1991. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 786 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER91110 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1991 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge (to 8000m) |
| Route 2 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Harold Taylor |
| Sponsor | High Adventure Team - Everest 1991 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 124 |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, France, New Zealand, Norway, USA |
| Approach | KTM->Tingri-Rongbuk BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1991-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1991-05-22 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 49 |
| Total Days | 53 |
| Termination Date | 1991-05-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 16 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 9 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C2A(22/04,7400m),C3A(06/05,8000m),xxx(16/05,8000m); NColRte-C1(18/04,7000m),C2B(06/05,7800m),C3B(14/05,8300m),Smt(22/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at road (normal Chinese BC) C1 at North Col C2A on NE Ridge (old C2 site) C3A at foot of Pinnacles on NE Ridge C2B above N Col C3B just below North Ridge. 8th May Barker tried for top from C2 and got to 8400m without oxygen (no members used oxygen) and turned back because too cold and down to C2. On 5th Taylor and Brice to NE Ridge C1 and 16th to C2 at foot of pinnacles. Brice got sick so stayed 17th in camp and 18th down to ABC. This the end of NE Ridge attempt because running short of time. 20th Taylor and Brice to N Ridge C2 with 2 Sherpas and 21st to C3. 22nd made summit bid: Taylor and Brice climbed only 100m and turned back because of cold and 2 Sherpas, Ang Babu (Everest top 1990) and Chuldin, to summit with oxygen at 11:30 am; Sherpas and Taylor down to C2 on 22nd; Brice to ABC. 23rd ABC evacuated and left BC 26th. Terrible winds: of 50-odd tents not one that doesn't need repairs; winds up to 120 km/hr at ABC and lost every tent. Redmond unable to make any attempt at paragliding. |
| Accidents | Lemaire serious frostbite in toes between C2 and C3 on N Ridge |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450570 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge (to 8000m) |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Len Atkinson | M | 1954 | UK | Climber | Kristiansand, Norway | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| William Geoffrey (Bill) Barker | M | 1943 | UK | Climber | Dolwyddelen, Gwynedd, Wales | Computer analyst | Details Other expeditions |
| Russell Reginald Brice | M | 1952 | New Zealand | Deputy Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Carati Roland | M | 1949 | New Zealand | Member | Auckland, New Zealand | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Claudia Dowling | F | 1950 | USA | Member | New York, New York | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| John S. C. English | M | 1955 | UK | Exp Doctor | Stone, Staffordshire, England | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Alan Charles Hinkes | M | 1954 | UK | Deputy Leader | Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alan Hughes | M | 1950 | UK | Climber | Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Peter Lemaire | M | 1962 | Australia | Climber | Doncaster, Victoria, Australia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Anthony O'Brien | M | - | USA | Member | Santa Fe, New Mexico | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew David (Andy) Parkin | M | 1954 | UK | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Artist (interior decorator & joiner) | Details Other expeditions |
| Xavier Remond | M | 1959 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Paragliding instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Sam Roberts | M | 1945 | UK | BC Manager | Caernarvon, Gwynedd, Wales | National park warden | Details Other expeditions |
| Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor | M | 1958 | UK | Leader | Radley, Oxford, England | Expedition organizer | Details Other expeditions |
| Olav Storli Ulvund | M | 1960 | Norway | Climber | Hvfilstad, Norway | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Steven Untch | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Green Valley Lake, California | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chuldin Temba (Chuldim) Sherpa | M | 1962 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Zarok, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER91110 | AAJ | Untch, Steven | - | - | 66:262-263 (1992) | - |
| EVER91110 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199226200/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt-and-North-Ridge-Ascent | - | - | - |