Everest | 1991 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
A Sweden expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs), led by Jack Berg. Summit reached on 15th May 1991. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 790 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER91105 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1991 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Sweden |
| Leaders | Jack Berg |
| Sponsor | Svenska Everest Expedition 1991 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 119,122 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1991-03-19 |
| Summit Date | 1991-05-15 |
| Summit Time | 1500 |
| Summit Days | 57 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 21 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 14 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | ChineseBC(19/03),ABC(24/03,5750m),C1(31/03,6150m),C2(10/04,6900m),C3(18/04,7350m),C4(29/04,7900m),C5(06/05,8250m),Smt(15,20/05) |
| Route Notes | Technically difficult route (1) from C1 to C2 and (2) from C5 in Hornbein Couloir: (1) section 60-80 degrees ice with stone fall on 50m section (had to climb early here) (2) difficult rock. 3 summit attempts: 1. Bidner and Mingma Norbu from C4; 7th May at C5 had problem with oxygen and stopped. 2. 15th May Fagrell, Fredholm, Mingma Norbu and Gyalbu from C5; at 8650m Fredholm's oxygen finished and he descended. At 8800m Fagrell's oxygen finished and couldn't breath and half hour or more to top on ridge and windy on ridge, so Fagrell stopped while 2 Sherpas went to top and returned to Fagrell; all 4 slept at C5. 3. 20th May Cronlund and 2 Sherpas from C5. 2 Sherpas dumped their oxygen bottles (full) at top of Hornbein Couloir as planned and descended. Cronlund went on as planned to summit; on Cronlund's descent he was in hurry because getting dark (at 7:00 pm darkness would come) and he went wrong at snowfield and could not find top of fixed ropes at top of couloir. He decided to stop where he was at 8600m with moonlight. He went around in circles most of night but 7:00 am he got up from having fallen asleep. All toes had frozen but may not loose any parts of them. No wind during night but in morning it was blowing and he had difficult time getting down to C5, from which one member climbed up to meet him at 8500m and help him to C5, where he stayed and where there was more oxygen. Now expedition decided to withdraw from mountain. Cronlund's ordeal through night of 20th was enough and expedition had succeeded. |
| Accidents | 1 Sherpa's hand broken bare from falling stone; Cronlund frostbite |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450563 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (japanese & hornbein couloirs) |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jack Berg | M | - | Sweden | Leader | Storskiftesvagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Bidner | M | 1964 | Sweden | Climber | Reimers Vag, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hakan Bjerneld | M | - | Sweden | Exp Doctor | Flottarvagen, Sweden | Orthopedic surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Lars (Lasse) Cronlund | M | 1953 | Sweden | Climber | Lovstavagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Goran Dahlgren | M | - | Sweden | ABC Manager | Geijersvagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Degerfeldt | M | 1956 | Sweden | Film Team | Vastermalmsgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ola Fagrell | M | 1957 | Sweden | Climber | Kjellestadsgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Odd Fischer | M | - | Sweden | Climber | Hermelinsgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Fors | M | 1947 | Sweden | Climber | Kunkegardesgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jerker Fredholm | M | - | Sweden | Climber | Sodra Vagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans Hellstrom | M | - | Sweden | Climber | Paradisvagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mats Holmgren | M | 1952 | Sweden | Climber | Paradisvagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Johan Lagerstrom | M | - | Sweden | Journalist | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Lars-Ove Lindblad | M | 1948 | Sweden | Climber | Skieryd, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Claes Lofgren | M | 1955 | Sweden | Film Team | Luntmakargatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Karltommy (Tommy) Sandberg | M | 1935 | Sweden | Climber | Hagvagen, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Rickard Strand | M | 1958 | Sweden | Climber | Fanriksgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Martin Sundqvist | M | - | Sweden | Climber | Benergatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Bosse (Bo) Tingback | M | 1951 | Sweden | BC Manager | Munkegardesgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ebbe Wahlund | M | 1946 | Sweden | Exp Doctor | Bjorkudden Stockholmsvagen, Sweden | Urologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Weber | M | - | Sweden | Climber | Hannebergsgatan, Sweden | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Norbu/Nuru Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyalbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER91105 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 66:259 (1992) | - |
| EVER91105 | - | Lagerstrom, Johan | Everest, Den Harda Vagen | Legenda, Stockholm | - | L68 |
| EVER91105 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199225902/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Japanese-and-Hoenbein-Couloirs | - | - | - |