Everest | 1991 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)

A Sweden expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs), led by Jack Berg. Summit reached on 15th May 1991. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 790
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91105
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Sweden
Leaders Jack Berg
Sponsor Svenska Everest Expedition 1991
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 119,122
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-03-19
Summit Date 1991-05-15
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 57
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 21
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(19/03),ABC(24/03,5750m),C1(31/03,6150m),C2(10/04,6900m),C3(18/04,7350m),C4(29/04,7900m),C5(06/05,8250m),Smt(15,20/05)
Route Notes Technically difficult route (1) from C1 to C2 and (2) from C5 in Hornbein Couloir: (1) section 60-80 degrees ice with stone fall on 50m section (had to climb early here) (2) difficult rock. 3 summit attempts: 1. Bidner and Mingma Norbu from C4; 7th May at C5 had problem with oxygen and stopped. 2. 15th May Fagrell, Fredholm, Mingma Norbu and Gyalbu from C5; at 8650m Fredholm's oxygen finished and he descended. At 8800m Fagrell's oxygen finished and couldn't breath and half hour or more to top on ridge and windy on ridge, so Fagrell stopped while 2 Sherpas went to top and returned to Fagrell; all 4 slept at C5. 3. 20th May Cronlund and 2 Sherpas from C5. 2 Sherpas dumped their oxygen bottles (full) at top of Hornbein Couloir as planned and descended. Cronlund went on as planned to summit; on Cronlund's descent he was in hurry because getting dark (at 7:00 pm darkness would come) and he went wrong at snowfield and could not find top of fixed ropes at top of couloir. He decided to stop where he was at 8600m with moonlight. He went around in circles most of night but 7:00 am he got up from having fallen asleep. All toes had frozen but may not loose any parts of them. No wind during night but in morning it was blowing and he had difficult time getting down to C5, from which one member climbed up to meet him at 8500m and help him to C5, where he stayed and where there was more oxygen. Now expedition decided to withdraw from mountain. Cronlund's ordeal through night of 20th was enough and expedition had succeeded.
Accidents 1 Sherpa's hand broken bare from falling stone; Cronlund frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450563
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (japanese & hornbein couloirs)

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jack Berg M - Sweden Leader Storskiftesvagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Daniel Bidner M 1964 Sweden Climber Reimers Vag, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Hakan Bjerneld M - Sweden Exp Doctor Flottarvagen, Sweden Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Lars (Lasse) Cronlund M 1953 Sweden Climber Lovstavagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Goran Dahlgren M - Sweden ABC Manager Geijersvagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Peter Degerfeldt M 1956 Sweden Film Team Vastermalmsgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Ola Fagrell M 1957 Sweden Climber Kjellestadsgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Odd Fischer M - Sweden Climber Hermelinsgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Thomas Fors M 1947 Sweden Climber Kunkegardesgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Jerker Fredholm M - Sweden Climber Sodra Vagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Hans Hellstrom M - Sweden Climber Paradisvagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Mats Holmgren M 1952 Sweden Climber Paradisvagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Johan Lagerstrom M - Sweden Journalist Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Journalist Details Other expeditions
Lars-Ove Lindblad M 1948 Sweden Climber Skieryd, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Claes Lofgren M 1955 Sweden Film Team Luntmakargatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Karltommy (Tommy) Sandberg M 1935 Sweden Climber Hagvagen, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Rickard Strand M 1958 Sweden Climber Fanriksgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Martin Sundqvist M - Sweden Climber Benergatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Bosse (Bo) Tingback M 1951 Sweden BC Manager Munkegardesgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Ebbe Wahlund M 1946 Sweden Exp Doctor Bjorkudden Stockholmsvagen, Sweden Urologist Details Other expeditions
Thomas Weber M - Sweden Climber Hannebergsgatan, Sweden - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Norbu/Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Gyalbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91105 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:259 (1992) -
EVER91105 - Lagerstrom, Johan Everest, Den Harda Vagen Legenda, Stockholm - L68
EVER91105 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199225902/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Japanese-and-Hoenbein-Couloirs - - -