Everest | 1991 N Col-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Eric Simonson. Summit reached on 15th May 1991. 26 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 788
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91104
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 NE Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Eric Simonson
Sponsor International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest N Face Expedition 1991
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 117,120,123,125
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, New Zealand
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1991-03-13
Summit Date 1991-05-15
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 63
Total Days 76
Termination Date 1991-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 22
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/03,5150m),C119/03,5500m),C2(20/03,6100m),ABC(21/03,6500m),C4(30/03,7000m),C5(21/04,7600m),C6(07/05,8300m),Smt(15,17,21,24/05)
Route Notes BC at road C3 at standard site C4 at North Col C5 on North Ridge C6 on North Face. Second Step is quite steep ("no way Mallory and Irvine climbed that route") and someone had left the ladder there which was very helpful. Month of April (that many high winds and took long time to manage to put in C5) had 4 summit bids. [On 1st bid Simonson, Dunn, Politz, Sloezen, Ang Dawa and Lhakpa Dorje summited on 15 May.] 2nd one on 16th 4 members [Hahn, Huntington, Perry, Rheinberger] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Jangbu, Pasang Kami] got to First Step, turned back because of winds and all down except Perry, who stayed at C6 and summitted alone on 17th. 3rd group 6 members [Edwards, Frantz, Okita, Van Hoy, Whetu, Wilson] on 21st tried for top: Whetu and Okita went up to top with oxygen while other 4 without it turned back because of cold. Wilson was member of this 3rd group; stayed on at C6 three more nights and went to top alone on 24th, this time using oxygen and again one more night at C6. 15th May summiters in chronological order: US Wilcox party; Simonson and 6 in order shown above (Simonson 12:30 pm NST); Ed Viesturs from south, who met Politz already on top; Swedish expedition's Sherpas. Lhakpa Dorje summited Everest with Canadians in 1982; this was Ang Dawa's first expedition to any mountain. Much hypocracy about climbing Everest alpine style: Robert Anderson and Marcus Schmucks's team talked about their alpine-style climbing, but they were given food and oxygen by Simonson's team and they used his team's tents.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450563
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

26 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
George James Dunn M 1953 USA Deputy Leader Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jason A. Edwards M 1958 USA Climber Tacoma, Washington Alpine guide & high school teacher Details Other expeditions
Jean Francois Ellis M 1946 USA Exp Doctor Napa, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Curtis Fawley M 1961 USA Climber Tacoma, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Scott Frantz M - USA Climber Riverside, Connecticut Finance banker Details Other expeditions
David Allen (Dave) Hahn M 1961 USA Climber Taos, New Mexico Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lawrence S. (Larry) Huntington M 1935 USA Climber New York, New York Banker Details Other expeditions
Markus Hutnak M 1966 USA Climber Pullman, Washington Unemployed (cameraman) Details Other expeditions
Paul Maier M - USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Daniel H. (Dan) Mann M 1953 USA Climber/Research Fairbanks, Alaska Geologist Details Other expeditions
Brent T. Okita M 1961 USA Climber Crystal Mountain, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Charles S. (Charlie) Peck M 1947 USA Climber Pasadena, California Real estate agent Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mike) Perry M 1956 New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrew James (Andy) Politz M 1959 USA Climber Columbus, Ohio Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jonas Pologie M - USA Research Colorado Medical researcher Details Other expeditions
Steven (Steve) Potter M - USA Climber New York Executive placement Details Other expeditions
Michael Anthony Rheinberger M 1940 Australia Climber Victoria, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Eric Robb Simonson M 1955 USA Leader Ashford, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert (Bob) Sloezen M 1953 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Craig Douglas Van Hoy M 1958 USA Climber Puyallup, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mark Anthony Whetu M 1959 New Zealand Climber Queenstown, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ronald Gregory (Greg) Wilson M 1956 USA Climber Hailey, Idaho Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Lumsa, Tapting, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91104 AAJ Simonson, Eric - - 66:260-262 (1992) -
EVER91104 HJ Simonson, Eric On Top of the World! - 49:169-172 (1991-1992) -
EVER91104 NZAJ Perry, Mike Everest North Ridge - 44:89-95 (1991) -
EVER91104 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199226000/Asia-Tibet-Everest - - -
EVER91104 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/49/20/on-top-of-the-world/ - - -