Everest | 1991 N Col-NE Ridge
A USA expedition to Everest in 1991 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Eric Simonson. Summit reached on 15th May 1991. 26 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 788 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER91104 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1991 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | NE Ridge |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Eric Simonson |
| Sponsor | International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest N Face Expedition 1991 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 117,120,123,125 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, New Zealand |
| Approach | KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1991-03-13 |
| Summit Date | 1991-05-15 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 63 |
| Total Days | 76 |
| Termination Date | 1991-05-28 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 22 |
| Summit Members | 8 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 12 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(13/03,5150m),C119/03,5500m),C2(20/03,6100m),ABC(21/03,6500m),C4(30/03,7000m),C5(21/04,7600m),C6(07/05,8300m),Smt(15,17,21,24/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at road C3 at standard site C4 at North Col C5 on North Ridge C6 on North Face. Second Step is quite steep ("no way Mallory and Irvine climbed that route") and someone had left the ladder there which was very helpful. Month of April (that many high winds and took long time to manage to put in C5) had 4 summit bids. [On 1st bid Simonson, Dunn, Politz, Sloezen, Ang Dawa and Lhakpa Dorje summited on 15 May.] 2nd one on 16th 4 members [Hahn, Huntington, Perry, Rheinberger] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Jangbu, Pasang Kami] got to First Step, turned back because of winds and all down except Perry, who stayed at C6 and summitted alone on 17th. 3rd group 6 members [Edwards, Frantz, Okita, Van Hoy, Whetu, Wilson] on 21st tried for top: Whetu and Okita went up to top with oxygen while other 4 without it turned back because of cold. Wilson was member of this 3rd group; stayed on at C6 three more nights and went to top alone on 24th, this time using oxygen and again one more night at C6. 15th May summiters in chronological order: US Wilcox party; Simonson and 6 in order shown above (Simonson 12:30 pm NST); Ed Viesturs from south, who met Politz already on top; Swedish expedition's Sherpas. Lhakpa Dorje summited Everest with Canadians in 1982; this was Ang Dawa's first expedition to any mountain. Much hypocracy about climbing Everest alpine style: Robert Anderson and Marcus Schmucks's team talked about their alpine-style climbing, but they were given food and oxygen by Simonson's team and they used his team's tents. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450563 |
| Year | 1991 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
26 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| George James Dunn | M | 1953 | USA | Deputy Leader | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jason A. Edwards | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Tacoma, Washington | Alpine guide & high school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Francois Ellis | M | 1946 | USA | Exp Doctor | Napa, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Curtis Fawley | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Tacoma, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott Frantz | M | - | USA | Climber | Riverside, Connecticut | Finance banker | Details Other expeditions |
| David Allen (Dave) Hahn | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Taos, New Mexico | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Lawrence S. (Larry) Huntington | M | 1935 | USA | Climber | New York, New York | Banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Markus Hutnak | M | 1966 | USA | Climber | Pullman, Washington | Unemployed (cameraman) | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Maier | M | - | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel H. (Dan) Mann | M | 1953 | USA | Climber/Research | Fairbanks, Alaska | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Brent T. Okita | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Crystal Mountain, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles S. (Charlie) Peck | M | 1947 | USA | Climber | Pasadena, California | Real estate agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael (Mike) Perry | M | 1956 | New Zealand | Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew James (Andy) Politz | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Columbus, Ohio | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonas Pologie | M | - | USA | Research | Colorado | Medical researcher | Details Other expeditions |
| Steven (Steve) Potter | M | - | USA | Climber | New York | Executive placement | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Anthony Rheinberger | M | 1940 | Australia | Climber | Victoria, Australia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Robb Simonson | M | 1955 | USA | Leader | Ashford, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert (Bob) Sloezen | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Craig Douglas Van Hoy | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Puyallup, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Anthony Whetu | M | 1959 | New Zealand | Climber | Queenstown, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ronald Gregory (Greg) Wilson | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Hailey, Idaho | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa | M | 1955 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khunde, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Dawa Sherpa | M | 1964 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Lumsa, Tapting, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Kami Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Jangbu Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER91104 | AAJ | Simonson, Eric | - | - | 66:260-262 (1992) | - |
| EVER91104 | HJ | Simonson, Eric | On Top of the World! | - | 49:169-172 (1991-1992) | - |
| EVER91104 | NZAJ | Perry, Mike | Everest North Ridge | - | 44:89-95 (1991) | - |
| EVER91104 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199226000/Asia-Tibet-Everest | - | - | - |
| EVER91104 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/49/20/on-top-of-the-world/ | - | - | - |