Everest | 1991 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1991 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Peter Athans. Summit reached on 8th May 1991. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 778
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER91101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Peter Athans
Sponsor Sherpa Support Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 115 w/Nepal
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-03-10
Summit Date 1991-05-08
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 59
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/03,5350m),C1(28/03,6100m),C2(02/04,6500m),C3(05/04,7100m),C4(21/04,7900m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at Col. Sherpas [from First Sherpa Youth Expedition] made 3 unsuccessful summit bids with first one on 24th and got to SE Ridge above SE Face "when defeated by wind" as on next two tries. On 2nd try got near S Summit; 3rd really not an attempt (did not get out of C4 tents); this 3rd bid was about 2nd May. Athans and Matous left C2 on 5th May for Lhotse summit and reached C3. Steve developed bad headache and used oxygen that night and 6th went down to C2 and Athans stayed at C3 to wait for Sherpas to mount their 4th Everest attempt. Athans and 3 Sherpas to C2 on 7th and to top on 8th, starting together but Athans fell behind struggling with video camera. Athans had left col at 2 am and Sherpas on top at 9:00 am and Athans 10:00 am on top (Sherpas waited at top for Athans) on cold and windy day. For Sherpas this was last summit bid; they were burned out. Lhotse very dry and lot of bare rock and blue ice; whole of Lhotse Face "blinking of blue ice." Icefall huge crevasse. So with partner and rope Athans would have gone for Lhotse summit but not alone (Athans not soloist, likes sharing experience with someone else).
Accidents Matous altitude illness
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450556
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter George (Pete) Athans M 1957 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide & outdoor-activities instructor Details Other expeditions
Ron Crotzer M 1947 USA Climber Vail, Colorado Oil industry financier Details Other expeditions
Charles G. Jones M 1948 USA Exp Doctor Boulder, Colorado Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Steven W. Matous M 1955 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER91101 AAJ Athans, Peter Sherpa Everest Expedition - 66:10-12 (1992) -
EVER91101 NGS Carrier, Jim Gatekeepers of the Himalaya National Geographic Magazine 182-6:70-78 (Dec 1992) -
EVER91101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199201000/Sherpa-Everest-Expedition - - -