Everest | 1990 W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7500m)

A Yugoslavia expedition to Everest in 1990 via W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7500m), led by Tomaz Jamnik. Summit reached on 7th October 1990. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 721
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90310
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7500m)
Route 2 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Tomaz Jamnik
Sponsor Alpe Adria Sagarmatha Expedition 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 114 w/Fra-USA
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-05
Summit Date 1990-10-07
Summit Time 1310
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/09,5400m),C1(10/09,6000m),C2(11/09,6400m),C3A(21/09,7500m),C3B(29/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(07/10)
Route Notes C2 in Western Cwm 1st C3 at top of West Shoulder 2nd C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at S Col. 21st Sept from Cwm climbed directly to top of shoulder, not in curving line of US 1963; did not go above C3 because several days snowfall brought half-meter fresh snow; strong wind followed and feared danger of avalanches and wind in Hornbein Couloir and also now realized team not strong enough. 27th Sept changed route to normal route and 1 member slept at Col on 30th Sept hoping to go to summit next day but wind too strong and all down to BC. 5th Oct up to C2 (3 members and 3 Sherpas). 6th Oct from C2 to Col; 1 Sherpa went back, 1 Sherpa at Col in support and 1 Sherpa to top next day with the 3 members; at 4:00 am Stremfeljs, Jeglic and Lhakpa Rita (his 1st high summit) start up. 1:10 pm Mariya and Andrej Stremfelj summit; 1:35 pm Janez Jeglic on top; all down to C3 at 7:00 pm (Lhakpa Rita on down to C2). 7th Oct Mazzoleni and Arjun Tamang arrived at Col in evening and 8th reached 8100m (Tamang) and South Summit (Mazzoleni) and turned back because strong wind; no more attempts for top although one Sherpa to C4 to bring down tent on 9th or 10th, but winds so strong he could not pack it. BC 15 to 17th Oct by most of team (10 members). Sterni felt (or feared?) recurrence of problem with vertebrae broken last year and left BC 24th Sept, At same time 2 others left: Dr Infanti had to return to work and Petronio found mountain too big. Mrs. Stremfelj: remarkable that after so many years, Everest climbed on same day by two married couples. Jamnik 26 Oct: no attempt was made to reach Lhotse summit; "When they finished with Everest, that was finish."
Accidents Jamnik ill in Kathmandu; Sterni suffered recurrence of last year's vertebrae problem
Achievement 1st married couple to summit
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450342
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w cwm-w ridge (to 7500m)

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergio De Infanti M 1944 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tatjana Gregori F 1965 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Zare Guzej M 1946 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Portoroz, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Stanko Jamnik M 1938 Yugoslavia Leader Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Janez Jeglic M 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Domzale, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Dusan Jelincic M 1953 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Journalist Details Other expeditions
Silvo Karo M 1960 Yugoslavia Climber Domzale, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lorenzo Mazzoleni M 1966 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Chef Details Other expeditions
Mauro Petronio M 1957 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Railway engine driver Details Other expeditions
Marco Sterni M 1965 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrej Stremfelj M 1956 Yugoslavia Deputy Leader Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Marija Stremfelj F 1957 Yugoslavia Climber Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Geology teacher Details Other expeditions
Lenard Vidali M 1962 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Davor Zupancic M 1959 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Sporting goods salesman Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Rita Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Arjun Tamang M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90310 AAJ Jamnik, Tomaz - - 65:228-229 (1991) -
EVER90310 MM - - - 137:8 (Jan 1991) -
EVER90310 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122803/Asia-Nepal-Everest-First-Ascent-by-a-Married-Couple-and-First-Yugoslav-Woman - - -