Everest | 1990 S Pillar (to 7700m)

A USA expedition to Everest in 1990 via S Pillar (to 7700m), led by Hooman Aprin. Summit reached on 4th October 1990. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 719
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90307
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Pillar (to 7700m)
Route 2 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Hooman Aprin
Sponsor American S Pillar Everest Expedition 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 111,112,114
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, USSR
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-01
Summit Date 1990-10-04
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 33
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1990-10-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 16
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09,5350m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3.Biv1(12/09,7100m),C3.Biv2(21/09,7400m),C4(28/09,7900m),Smt(04-05,07/10)
Route Notes 1st C3 on Pillar 2nd C3 on Lhotse Shar C4 at South Col High point at via S Pillar. On S Pillar, put C3 at 7100m on 12th Sept and during following 7 days fixed ropes to 7700m slightly to right of pillar. In this period 2 Sherpas hit by powdered avalanche and was left dangling on ropes and another was hit in ribs by falling block of ice (but resumed climb later on and reached col (Ang Rita from Thami, but not THE Ang Rita). On 19th avalanche covered the ropes, which could be pulled out, but the 5 clients were getting apprehensive about going up those lines so route changed to S Col (LO gave permission before ministry agreed). US team claims that Batard team made extensive use of US C4 equipment without permission. Batard left quickly with others while Karl Huyberechts and Annie Dubois left without food at BC; US team fed them. US changed to S Col route by moving gear from pillar C3 directly across to Lhotse Face where pitched another C3 at 7400m (members traversed across, Sherpas down to Cwm and up). Col reached on 28th Sept and on 29th summit bid by Lowe and Culver reached only 100m above Col; Col now this morning abandoned by team because of strong winds. 30th Sept all to BC because of wind even at C2 and some snowfall. On 2nd Oct Nelson with a US Sherpa, Lowe and Culver at C4 to make summit bid but had pulmonary edema on arrival and down sick. On 4th Lowe, Culver and Salino of De La Ferriere expedition left C4 together at 9:00 am when wind stopped suddenly. Lowe pulled ahead of others and reached top about 1-1/2 hours ahead of them. [Lowe summited at 12:30 pm and Culver at 2 pm.] Lowe reported tricky climbing beyond S Summit so Aprin and Ang Temba took ropes and left Col with De Camp and his 2 Sherpas from Batard expedition 5th Oct at 3:45 am; Aprin fixed ropes below S Summit and Hillary step. French Sherpas and Ang Temba on top 10:30 am, Aprin 10:40 am and De Camp 11:45 am. Aprin and Ang Temba to C2 same day. On 7th Oct next summit bid from Col: Lowe and Fuller left Col later than successful climbers and turned back (Lowe not on oxygen to 8100m only, Fuller to 8350-8400m and down because felt lonely, unable to catch up with others). Gibson, Krasnokutsky and Pinzo Sherpa left Col at 5:30 am and were on summit at 2:30 pm, used fixed ropes and moving cautiously with Pinzo carrying extra oxygen for Gibson; she had total of 3 bottles available. Pinzo reaching summit at 12:30 pm? All summiters down to C4 and Lowe and Fuller to C2. Gibson and husband to C2 on 8th and BC 9th Oct. Sherpas up on 9th to C2 and some to C4 on 10th to clear camps. All off mountain on 10th evening and 5 members left BC 11th (others had left on 8th and 9th).
Accidents Nelson pulmonary edema; Williams cerebral edema
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450339
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s pillar (to 7700m)

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hooman Nmi Aprin M 1946 USA Leader Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jack Beaton M 1930 USA Climber Atkinson, New Hampshire Marketing manager Details Other expeditions
Daniel George (Dan) Culver M 1952 Canada Climber N Vancouver, British Colombia Outdoor adventure tour guide Details Other expeditions
John Fischer M 1941 USA Climber Reno, Nevada Physician Details Other expeditions
Colin M. Fuller M 1947 USA Climber Verdil, Nevada Cardiologist Details Other expeditions
Catherine J. Gibson F 1955 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Financial executive Details Other expeditions
Kimberly Johnson F - USA Exp Doctor Fairbanks, Alaska Physician Details Other expeditions
Aleksei Kransnokutsky M 1949 USSR Climber Seattle, Washington Engineer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stewart Alexander (Alex) Lowe M 1958 USA Climber Casper, Wyoming Engineer & guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Nelson M 1945 USA Climber San Louis Obispo, California Dentist Details Other expeditions
Martyn Williams M 1947 Canada Deputy Leader Whitehorse, Yukon Wilderness & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Phinzo Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90307 AAJ Aprin, Hooman - - 65:226-227 (1991) -
EVER90307 MM - - - 137:8 (Jan 1991) -
EVER90307 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122602/Asia-Nepal-Everest - - -