Everest | 1990 N Face (direct)

A New Zealand expedition to Everest in 1990 via N Face (direct), led by Mike Perry. Summit reached on 4th June 1990. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 626
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90110
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (direct)
Route 2 N Face-N Col-N Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Mike Perry
Sponsor New Zealand Expedition to Mt. Qomolungma
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, UK
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk
Basecamp Date 1990-04-15
Summit Date 1990-06-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 50
Total Days 57
Termination Date 1990-06-11
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8700m because no member ready to try for top
High Point (m) 8700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04,5150m),ABC(23/04,5500m),C1(28/04,5850m),C2(03/05,6700m),NCol(7000m),C5(22/05,7800m),C6(05/06,8200m),xxx(04/06,8700m)
Route Notes BC at road ABC on moraine C1 on moraine C2 at bergschrund at bottom of North Face and of west side of Col Col camp at N Col C5 on ridges leading NE Ridge C6 on North Face below NE Ridge High point at 3rd Step. Had lot of snow and zero visibility during 7-11 May when climbers high on mountain were succeeding in large members. Began climb by carrying gear to bottom of N Face. Had planned to have 3 load-carrying Sherpas but Chinese suddenly slapped big bill for Sherpas. Another problem was bad crevassing to face. Decided face climb would have consumed too much strength leaving only 2 strong enough for summit bid. Soon as others on normal route Bruce up from C6; decided not to take a rope in interest if speed, but by time reached 8600m (below 2nd Step) had been on tricky rock terrain and Bruce now concerned that would be difficult to descend without rope here and turned back. Van Noorden went on and reached 3rd Step at 8700m. Now on final snow slope, decided Bruce correct and he also turned back in perfect weather. 2nd attempt by Curry, Perry, Rheinberger and Whetu: arrived C6 10th June. Left at 4:00 am on 11th June, in light breeze and clear sky. By time 150m fixed rope to which took time and got cold. On above on easier ground but in increasingly stronger wind at 1st step (Curry only one on oxygen). 3 were suffering and extreme loss of body heat and Whetu and Perry's feet freezing. Wind was incredibly strong in afternoon, they could not see. Reached 8500m at 9:30 am and then turned back because there were freezing and Curry not masochist. This was last attempt: of others left on mountain, one not feeling "with it" physically and Price had retinal hemmorhage 8th June at C5.
Accidents Bruce retinal hemorrhage; Curry fell into crevasse and damaged nerve in arm
Achievement -
Agency Arniko Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450217
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (direct)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shaun Michael Norman M 1943 UK Deputy Leader Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christopher Hugh Curry M 1953 Australia Climber/Exp Doctor Christchurch, New Zealand Physician Details Other expeditions
Mark Anthony Whetu M 1959 New Zealand Climber Queenstown, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Richard Desmond (Dick) Price M 1947 New Zealand Exp Doctor Oamaru, New Zealand Physician Details Other expeditions
Hugh Van Noorden M 1959 New Zealand Climber Turangi, New Zealand Outdoor-activities instructor Details Other expeditions
Steve Alistair Bruce M 1959 New Zealand Climber Wellington, New Zealand Police officer Details Other expeditions
Anton Francis Wopereis M 1953 New Zealand Climber Richmond, New Zealand Alpine guide & construction worker Details Other expeditions
Michael Anthony Rheinberger M 1940 Australia Climber Parkville, Victoria, Australia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mike) Perry M 1956 New Zealand Leader Christchurch, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90110 AAJ Perry, Michael - - 65:286-287 (1991) -
EVER90110 NZAJ Norman, Shaun Everest North Face 1990: A Personal Note - 43:95-97 (1990) -
EVER90110 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199128603/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt - - -