Everest | 1990 S Col-SE Ridge
A USA expedition to Everest in 1990 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Glenn Porzak. Summit reached on 10th May 1990. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 629 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER90107 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Glenn Porzak |
| Sponsor | 1990 American Everest-Lhotse Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 106,108 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-04-01 |
| Summit Date | 1990-05-10 |
| Summit Time | 0715 |
| Summit Days | 39 |
| Total Days | 47 |
| Termination Date | 1990-05-18 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 18 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-901-01) |
| Campsites | BC(01/04,5350m),C1(06/04,6000m),C2(08/04,6600m),C3(15/04,7150m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(10-11/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col (2 big tents). 28th April made 1st summit bid: all who actually succeeded on 10th except Manning & Lhakpa Dorje had reached C4. Porzak only on to go above C4, on 28th got to 8100m & turned back because winds were just bad as at Col and "couldn't see anything." 29th down to BC. 1st May snowed at BC, total storm day - and 5th also. 6th May perfect weather and started up 7th May. 9th May to Col despite very cold and almost turned back at yellow band but no wind; arrived Col at 1:00 pm but clear at 8:00 pm and started up at 11:00 pm in full moonlight, very cold snow deep; took turns leading until at 8500m Athans took lead and took off like madman at 12:30. Steep up to S Summit; avalanche danger at best and felt at any moment might go down Kangschung Face which in shadow; then sun popped up suddenly. Porzak used 1 liter/min part way, 2l/m most of way, 3l/m on summit. Porzak arrived at top about 7:15 am and stayed an hour. Ran out of oxygen in descent at 28,500 ft and arrived at Col in whiteout at 2:00 pm. He was surprised how steep SE Ridge was. Lapkass intended to be in Lhotse team, then changed his mind, shot up to Everest. There were 2 Swedes from NZ expedition and Macartney-Snape at Col and these 4 went to summit together. Left Col 9:30 pm on 10th May and was first on top next morning - "it was a good trip, a good group of guys, great group of Sherpas." 2 Sherpas went to S Col with May 10th summiters who stayed in C4, as per plan so they could help summit party. Wally Berg - 27 May 90 10 minutes after we radioed from summit of Lhotse, the Sherpas were putting on city clothes and taking baths, despite Porzak's telling Sherpas in advance Berg and Fischer were to try Everest summit. Sherpas weren't ready to cooperate after other Everest successes and Lhotse's. Berg and Fischer could have gone for Everest top with Swiss if Berg and Fischer were prepared to go no lower than C2 and join Swiss on 16th to Everest top, but Berg and Fischer needed BC rest first. Fischer especially disappointed at losing chance for Everest summit. Berg also sorry, but have taken some consolation from reports that weather not good after 15th or so. |
| Accidents | Manning slight frostbite; Browning serious pulmonary edema in descent from top |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450192 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peter George (Pete) Athans | M | 1957 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Alpine guide & film technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Wallace Wayne (Wally) Berg | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Copper Mountain, Colorado | Alpine guide for outdoor adventure firm in Seattle | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael F. (Mike) Browning | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Dana Quentin Coffield | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | McKinney, Texas | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott Eugene Fischer | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ron Crotzer | M | 1947 | USA | Climber | Golden, Colorado | Oil-drilling engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles G. Jones | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Atis (Andy) Lapkass | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Estes Park, Colorado | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Brent V. Manning | M | 1950 | USA | Climber | Bountiful, Utah | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Glenn Edward Porzak | M | 1948 | USA | Leader | Boulder, Colorado | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Jangbu Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Tashi Sherpa | M | 1960 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa | M | 1959 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER90107 | AAJ | Porzak, Glenn | Everest and Lhotse | - | 65:52-57 (1991) | - |
| EVER90107 | MM | - | - | - | 134:9 (Jul 1990) | - |
| EVER90107 | MM | - | - | - | 136:12 (Nov 1990) | - |
| EVER90107 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199105200/Everest-and-Lhotse | - | - | - |