Everest | 1990 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1990 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Glenn Porzak. Summit reached on 10th May 1990. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 629
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90107
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Glenn Porzak
Sponsor 1990 American Everest-Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 106,108
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-04-01
Summit Date 1990-05-10
Summit Time 0715
Summit Days 39
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1990-05-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 18
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-901-01)
Campsites BC(01/04,5350m),C1(06/04,6000m),C2(08/04,6600m),C3(15/04,7150m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(10-11/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col (2 big tents). 28th April made 1st summit bid: all who actually succeeded on 10th except Manning & Lhakpa Dorje had reached C4. Porzak only on to go above C4, on 28th got to 8100m & turned back because winds were just bad as at Col and "couldn't see anything." 29th down to BC. 1st May snowed at BC, total storm day - and 5th also. 6th May perfect weather and started up 7th May. 9th May to Col despite very cold and almost turned back at yellow band but no wind; arrived Col at 1:00 pm but clear at 8:00 pm and started up at 11:00 pm in full moonlight, very cold snow deep; took turns leading until at 8500m Athans took lead and took off like madman at 12:30. Steep up to S Summit; avalanche danger at best and felt at any moment might go down Kangschung Face which in shadow; then sun popped up suddenly. Porzak used 1 liter/min part way, 2l/m most of way, 3l/m on summit. Porzak arrived at top about 7:15 am and stayed an hour. Ran out of oxygen in descent at 28,500 ft and arrived at Col in whiteout at 2:00 pm. He was surprised how steep SE Ridge was. Lapkass intended to be in Lhotse team, then changed his mind, shot up to Everest. There were 2 Swedes from NZ expedition and Macartney-Snape at Col and these 4 went to summit together. Left Col 9:30 pm on 10th May and was first on top next morning - "it was a good trip, a good group of guys, great group of Sherpas." 2 Sherpas went to S Col with May 10th summiters who stayed in C4, as per plan so they could help summit party. Wally Berg - 27 May 90 10 minutes after we radioed from summit of Lhotse, the Sherpas were putting on city clothes and taking baths, despite Porzak's telling Sherpas in advance Berg and Fischer were to try Everest summit. Sherpas weren't ready to cooperate after other Everest successes and Lhotse's. Berg and Fischer could have gone for Everest top with Swiss if Berg and Fischer were prepared to go no lower than C2 and join Swiss on 16th to Everest top, but Berg and Fischer needed BC rest first. Fischer especially disappointed at losing chance for Everest summit. Berg also sorry, but have taken some consolation from reports that weather not good after 15th or so.
Accidents Manning slight frostbite; Browning serious pulmonary edema in descent from top
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450192
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter George (Pete) Athans M 1957 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide & film technician Details Other expeditions
Wallace Wayne (Wally) Berg M 1955 USA Climber Copper Mountain, Colorado Alpine guide for outdoor adventure firm in Seattle Details Other expeditions
Michael F. (Mike) Browning M 1952 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
Dana Quentin Coffield M 1958 USA Climber McKinney, Texas Geologist Details Other expeditions
Scott Eugene Fischer M 1955 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ron Crotzer M 1947 USA Climber Golden, Colorado Oil-drilling engineer Details Other expeditions
Charles G. Jones M 1948 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Andrew Atis (Andy) Lapkass M 1958 USA Climber Estes Park, Colorado Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Brent V. Manning M 1950 USA Climber Bountiful, Utah Attorney Details Other expeditions
Glenn Edward Porzak M 1948 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tashi Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90107 AAJ Porzak, Glenn Everest and Lhotse - 65:52-57 (1991) -
EVER90107 MM - - - 134:9 (Jul 1990) -
EVER90107 MM - - - 136:12 (Nov 1990) -
EVER90107 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199105200/Everest-and-Lhotse - - -