Everest | 1990 Lho La-W Ridge (to 7400m)

A Australia expedition to Everest in 1990 via Lho La-W Ridge (to 7400m), led by Timothy Macartney-Snape. Summit reached on 11th May 1990. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 631
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90106
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge (to 7400m)
Route 2 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Timothy Macartney-Snape
Sponsor Australian Geographic Sea to Summit Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 110
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-03-30
Summit Date 1990-05-11
Summit Time 0945
Summit Days 42
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1990-05-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,5350m),C1(05/04,6000m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7980m),Smt(11/05)
Route Notes C1 (never occupied) C2 in Western Cwm C3 at South Col Walked from Bay of Bengal starting 5th Feb; went extra 300 km because India border crossing point had expected to use was closed. Swiss on W Ridge needed more rope, thus Tim and 2 Sherpas (hired to carry film into Cwm) helped them carry it to Lho La and on up their C2 site and on top of W Shoulder at 7400m, where Tim spent night of 22 April to acclimatize; had good look at Tim's interested route. Then down directly into Cwm thinking route looked good but was windy (met Zabaleta and Habeler on ridge). Hornbein Couloir became dangerous because of snowfall and slab avalanche danger, which turned Swiss back. On 8th May Tim decided to go for S Col route and on 9th May from C2 to Col during night and got to Col 9th morning; didn't feel good about going to top that day but on 10th at 10:00 pm left Col for top; Lapkass had left at 9:00 pm; Tim caught up with him at 2:00 am; Swede Mickey caught up with both of them at S Summit at 6:00 am; reached top at 9:45 am; other 2 within 20 minutes. S Col route much harder work than N Face but from S Summit is very enjoyable. Tim: "If I hadn't been committed so much to summit, might have tried harder on W Ridge."
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450193
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge (to 7400m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael Charles (Mike) Dillon M 1945 Australia Film Team Strathfield, NSW, Australia Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Philippa Macartney-Snape F 1963 Australia BC Manager Mittagong, NSW, Australia Gardener Details Other expeditions
Timothy John Macartney-Snape M 1956 Australia Leader Mittagong, NSW, Australia Writer Details Other expeditions
Ann Ward F 1959 Australia Exp Doctor Colovale, NSW, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90106 AAJ Macartney-Snape, Timothy - - 65:225-226 (1991) -
EVER90106 - Macartney-Snape, Tim Everest from Sea to Summit Austrailian Geographic, Terrey Hills, NSW, Australia - M03
EVER90106 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122500/Asia-Nepal-Everest-from-Sea-Level-to-the-Summit - - -