Everest | 1990 Lho La-W Ridge (to 7450m)

A Switzerland expedition to Everest in 1990 via Lho La-W Ridge (to 7450m), led by Beda Fuster. Summit reached on 16th May 1990. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 630
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90105
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge (to 7450m)
Route 2 S Col-SE Ridge (to 8200m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Beda Fuster
Sponsor Everest W Ridge Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-03-28
Summit Date 1990-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 49
Total Days 53
Termination Date 1990-05-20
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to freezing toes
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/03,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6850m),C3(09/05,7250m),xxx(16/05,8200m)
Route Notes BC at bottom of Khumbu Icefall C1 at Lho La C3 at beginning of shoulder High point at SE Ridge. When returned to C2 on 10th May, found much snow blown onto route, waist-deep snow (which buried fixed ropes) and avalanche danger so decided at C2 to abandon West Ridge attempt. Then to South Col route, using American's Sherpas cook at their team's food for Swiss. At Col 15th May 11:00 pm (start) with only warm clothing to carry; arrived Col 1:00 pm 16th after 3 hrs stop to eat at C3. 3 American Sherpas took down American C3 and Steininger down with them. 16th Boesch and Fuster started up from Col 8:30-9:00 pm and reached 8200m at 11:00-1130 pm, then turned back because some wind from top (not very strong but constant) and no shelter to take off and massage freezing toes and five more hours until sun up to make temperature warmer; so gave up in order to avoid serious frostbite. Slept few hours at Col, then down to BC on 17th, through unmaintained icefall where route had collapsed in some places. By now American's Sherpas had cleared C2 in Cwm. No chance to go up because Sherpas leaving 19th-20th and Swiss had gone up to Col too soon after ridge climb. Reason for cold toes was insufficient rest before going to Col. Swiss had made arrrangements with Americans for them to leave supplies and tents for Swiss to use and American's Sherpas agreed to stay and help until 19th May. Expedition Report 11.3: Arrival in KTM with all members and all equipment 11.3-15.3: shopping in KTM 15.3: shopping in KTM 15.3: by bus to Jiri 16.3-28.3: approach Jiri - BC weather partially bad 28.3-29.3: installing BC 30.3-11.4: lining ropes up to Lho La climbing difficulties in the rock up to 6-7 weather very bad 10 -10.4: storm in BC destroyed some tents 12.4: C1 established on Lhola, - 6100m 13.4-18.4: lining ropes up to C2 (6850m) 20.4: established C2 (2 tents) 21.4: carrying equipment up to the shoulder (depot in 7200m) not bottle oxygen 22.4-24.4: rest days in BC 25.4-26.4: list by all 6 members attempt up to 6550m, cancelled in snowstorm 27.4- 6.5: bad weather, rest days. 7.5: second attempt of all members; C1 8.5: 2 members returned, the others up to C2, hard step breaking in new snow which was crusted. 9.5: step breaking in new snow up to the depot on the shoulder after reaching the shoulder Fuster and Ott returned, C3 in 7250m. 10.5: step breaking in wind pressed snow along the shoulder, increasing avalanche danger heavy bags because of alpine style. The last two members returned after reaching 7450m descent to C2. 11.5: carry down all the equipment of C2 because in the slide down to the Lho La was more then (in snow, wind) 12.5: descent to BC 13.5-14.5: resting in BC, asking the Ministry of Tourism for permission to go on the southeast ridge route, the American expedition offered us to use their tents. 15.5: ascent up to C2 (Steininger, Bosch and Fuster) 16.5: ascent up to South Col (Bosch and Fuster) and start in the evening of to go to summit, after reached at altitude from 8200m. 17.5: descent down to BC 15.5-17.5: cleaning the Lho La - rock (taking out all hired ropes and bringing down all equipment) 20:5: depart from BC 24.5-25.5: back in KTM (Lukla), everybody in good health. Kathmandu 24.5.90 by Bedi Fuster.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Himal
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450198
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge (to 7450m)

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert Boesch M 1954 Switzerland Climber Zurich, Switzerland Photographer & journalist Details Other expeditions
Beda Fuster M 1956 Switzerland Leader Appenzell, Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ursula Huber F 1963 Switzerland Climber Appenzell, Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Richard Ott M 1962 Switzerland Climber Zurich, Switzerland Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Thomas Pfenninger M 1964 Switzerland Climber Hilzingen, Schaffhausen, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Werner Steininger M 1949 Switzerland Climber Gais, Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90105 AAJ Fuster, Beda - - 65:226 (1991) -
EVER90105 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122601/Asia-Nepal-Everest-West-Ridge-Attempt - - -