Everest | 1990 S Col-SE Ridge

A Nepal expedition to Everest in 1990 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Chetra Bahadur Gurung. Summit reached on 23rd April 1990. 28 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 632
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90104
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Chetra Bahadur Gurung
Sponsor Royal Nepal Army Expedition 1990
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 101
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-03-26
Summit Date 1990-04-23
Summit Time 1715
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 26
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 24
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/03,5485m),C1(04/04,6100m),ABC(12/04,6700m),C3(16/04,7300m),C4(23/04,7985m),C5(23/04,8530m),Smt(23/04)
Route Notes ABC-C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col (Col at 7906m, according to NGS map) C5 at SE Ridge. Placed nearly 80 ladders in icefall: safest route ever in icefall. Army chief ordered establishment of C5 whether it would be used or not and in the event it saved lives of Padma Bahadur Tamang, Khatri and Ang Kami. On 23 April eight men left C4: Phinzo Sherpa and Apa Sherpa established C5 at 2 pm and returned to C4 while Gopal Bahadur reached S Summit and slept in C5. On 24th April Gopal Bahadur climbed up to summiters, brought them to C5, gave them food and drink and oxygen there and then all five down to C4 that day. Summit party of four successful men: arose at C4 at midnight of 22/23 April; started climbing up at 2:00 am of 23rd despite wind; reached summit 5:15 pm (45 minutes) after their oxygen had run out; bivouacked at 28,000 ft at 6:30 pm at bottom of Hillary Step (bivouacked there because getting dark and they were tired); suffered frostbite during biv. Left biv at 6 am on 24th and slept that night in C4 which they reached at noon. No other summit bids. Ang Rita will go again to Everest? "Maybe"
Accidents 2 summiters frostbite (Khatri toes and thumbs, Ang Kami toes)
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450175
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

28 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hari Bahadur Basnet M 1959 Nepal Climber Khairinitar, Tanahun Service Details Other expeditions
Purna Prasad Bodari M - Nepal Climber Amarpur, Pachthar Service Details Other expeditions
Bhakta Bahadur Bogati M - Nepal Climber Harmi, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Udaya Bahadur Dewan M - Nepal Climber Ilam, Mechi Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Daman Bahadur Ghale M 1955 Nepal Climber Kuleswor, Kalimati, Bagmati Zone Military service Details Other expeditions
Naresh Kumar Giri M - Nepal Climber Kathmandu Government service Details Other expeditions
Bhim Bahadur Gurung M 1964 Nepal Climber Parwatipur, Chitwan, Narayani Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Chetra Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Leader Chetre, Parbat, Dhaulagiri Zone Military service (Lt. Colonel) Details Other expeditions
Nurpu Gurung M - Nepal Climber Rainash, Lamjung, Gandaki Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Ratna Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber Talakhu, Nuwakot, Bagmati Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Giri Prasad Kala M - Nepal Climber Rimuwa, Gulmi, Lumbini Zone Service (Captain) Details Other expeditions
Sher Bahadur Karki M - Nepal Climber Telga, Palpa, Lumbini Royal Nepal Army Details Other expeditions
Top Bahadur Khatri M 1959 Nepal Climber Jubhung, Gulmo, Lumbini Zone Service, Army NCO Details Other expeditions
Shashi Rai M - Nepal Climber Jawalakhel, Lalitpur, Kathmandu Government service Details Other expeditions
Hira Bahadur (Kancha) Rana Magar M 1954 Nepal Climber Kusheswor, Sindhuli, Janakpur Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Tsermadingma, Solukhumbu Service, assistant chief instructor Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Climber Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Chotare Sherpa M 1932 Nepal Climber Namche Bazar, Khumbu Service, chief instructor Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Climber Namche Bazar, Khumbu Assistant Chief Instructor, Royal Nepal Army Details Other expeditions
Ram Chandra Shrestha M 1964 Nepal Climber Agnichowk, Dhading, Bagmati Zone Service Details Other expeditions
Gopal Bahadur Tamang M - Nepal Climber Bhojpur District, Kosi Zone RNA Service Details Other expeditions
Padam Bahadur Tamang M 1954 Nepal Climber Chuchure, Ramechap, Janakpur Service Details Other expeditions
Surya Bahadur Tamang M - Nepal Climber Talakhu, Nuwakot, Bagmati Zone RNA Service Details Other expeditions
Major Janak Prakash Thapa M - Nepal Climber Godam Chaur, Lalitpur, Bagmati Zone Military service Details Other expeditions
Suresh Raj Thapa M - Nepal Climber Bhadrutar Village Military service Details Other expeditions
Purna Bahadur Thapa M - Nepal Climber Esam, Okhaldhunga Service Details Other expeditions
Apa (Appa) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Thami Og, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phinzo Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90104 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:223 (1991) -
EVER90104 MM - - - 134:8 (Jul 1990) -
EVER90104 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122301/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Climbed-by-Nepalese - - -