Everest | 1990 S Col-SE Ridge
A Nepal expedition to Everest in 1990 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Chetra Bahadur Gurung. Summit reached on 23rd April 1990. 28 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 632 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER90104 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Nepal |
| Leaders | Chetra Bahadur Gurung |
| Sponsor | Royal Nepal Army Expedition 1990 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 101 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-03-26 |
| Summit Date | 1990-04-23 |
| Summit Time | 1715 |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 26 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 24 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/03,5485m),C1(04/04,6100m),ABC(12/04,6700m),C3(16/04,7300m),C4(23/04,7985m),C5(23/04,8530m),Smt(23/04) |
| Route Notes | ABC-C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col (Col at 7906m, according to NGS map) C5 at SE Ridge. Placed nearly 80 ladders in icefall: safest route ever in icefall. Army chief ordered establishment of C5 whether it would be used or not and in the event it saved lives of Padma Bahadur Tamang, Khatri and Ang Kami. On 23 April eight men left C4: Phinzo Sherpa and Apa Sherpa established C5 at 2 pm and returned to C4 while Gopal Bahadur reached S Summit and slept in C5. On 24th April Gopal Bahadur climbed up to summiters, brought them to C5, gave them food and drink and oxygen there and then all five down to C4 that day. Summit party of four successful men: arose at C4 at midnight of 22/23 April; started climbing up at 2:00 am of 23rd despite wind; reached summit 5:15 pm (45 minutes) after their oxygen had run out; bivouacked at 28,000 ft at 6:30 pm at bottom of Hillary Step (bivouacked there because getting dark and they were tired); suffered frostbite during biv. Left biv at 6 am on 24th and slept that night in C4 which they reached at noon. No other summit bids. Ang Rita will go again to Everest? "Maybe" |
| Accidents | 2 summiters frostbite (Khatri toes and thumbs, Ang Kami toes) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Kunga |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450175 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
28 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hari Bahadur Basnet | M | 1959 | Nepal | Climber | Khairinitar, Tanahun | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Purna Prasad Bodari | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Amarpur, Pachthar | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Bhakta Bahadur Bogati | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Harmi, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Udaya Bahadur Dewan | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Ilam, Mechi Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Daman Bahadur Ghale | M | 1955 | Nepal | Climber | Kuleswor, Kalimati, Bagmati Zone | Military service | Details Other expeditions |
| Naresh Kumar Giri | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Kathmandu | Government service | Details Other expeditions |
| Bhim Bahadur Gurung | M | 1964 | Nepal | Climber | Parwatipur, Chitwan, Narayani Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Chetra Bahadur Gurung | M | - | Nepal | Leader | Chetre, Parbat, Dhaulagiri Zone | Military service (Lt. Colonel) | Details Other expeditions |
| Nurpu Gurung | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Rainash, Lamjung, Gandaki Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Ratna Bahadur Gurung | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Talakhu, Nuwakot, Bagmati Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Giri Prasad Kala | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Rimuwa, Gulmi, Lumbini Zone | Service (Captain) | Details Other expeditions |
| Sher Bahadur Karki | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Telga, Palpa, Lumbini | Royal Nepal Army | Details Other expeditions |
| Top Bahadur Khatri | M | 1959 | Nepal | Climber | Jubhung, Gulmo, Lumbini Zone | Service, Army NCO | Details Other expeditions |
| Shashi Rai | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Jawalakhel, Lalitpur, Kathmandu | Government service | Details Other expeditions |
| Hira Bahadur (Kancha) Rana Magar | M | 1954 | Nepal | Climber | Kusheswor, Sindhuli, Janakpur Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Kami Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Tsermadingma, Solukhumbu | Service, assistant chief instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Rita Sherpa | M | 1948 | Nepal | Climber | Yilajung, Khumbu | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Chotare Sherpa | M | 1932 | Nepal | Climber | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | Service, chief instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa | M | 1954 | Nepal | Climber | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | Assistant Chief Instructor, Royal Nepal Army | Details Other expeditions |
| Ram Chandra Shrestha | M | 1964 | Nepal | Climber | Agnichowk, Dhading, Bagmati Zone | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Gopal Bahadur Tamang | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Bhojpur District, Kosi Zone | RNA Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Padam Bahadur Tamang | M | 1954 | Nepal | Climber | Chuchure, Ramechap, Janakpur | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Surya Bahadur Tamang | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Talakhu, Nuwakot, Bagmati Zone | RNA Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Major Janak Prakash Thapa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Godam Chaur, Lalitpur, Bagmati Zone | Military service | Details Other expeditions |
| Suresh Raj Thapa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Bhadrutar Village | Military service | Details Other expeditions |
| Purna Bahadur Thapa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Esam, Okhaldhunga | Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Apa (Appa) Sherpa | M | 1960 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami Og, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phinzo Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER90104 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 65:223 (1991) | - |
| EVER90104 | MM | - | - | - | 134:8 (Jul 1990) | - |
| EVER90104 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122301/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Climbed-by-Nepalese | - | - | - |