Everest | 1990 W Ridge from N

A USA expedition to Everest in 1990 via W Ridge from N, led by Todd Burleson. Summit reached on 12th May 1990. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 625
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90102
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Todd Burleson
Sponsor Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Super Couloir to Everest 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Canada, Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-03-08
Summit Date 1990-05-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 65
Total Days 66
Termination Date 1990-05-13
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to illness and tired of mountain
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(08/03,5100m),ABC(15/03,5300m),C1(31/03,5800m),C2(07/04,6550m),C3(16/04,7100m),C4(10/05,7500m),xxx(12/05,7800m)
Route Notes Chinese BC on road C1 at Changtse corner C2 at French ridge 1st ridge to left of Lho La C3 at 700 ft below West Shoulder C4 on West Ridge at bottom of steep rock band High point at snowfield below and to right of Hornbein. Decided immediately that North Face route was too dangerous from rock fall so went to W Ridge. Mischa Saleki had permit for ridge but his Sherpas had left and was agreed they would cooperate with Saleki using American's ropes and Sherpas but serious problems with him arose til he left 10th May. 1st summit attempt 21 April from C1, got to C3 same day, 22nd tried to go to C4 by Burleson, Habeler, Zabelata, Childin Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa and Gopal Tamang; stopped at 7300m+ because 2 Sherpas and Habeler [and Burleson] ill and attempt finished. All to BC; trekking group arrived, spent one week with group (and Habeler left with group 1 May). Expedition objective had been to get as many people as high as possible. When found no one going above shoulder, switched over to alpine-style by experienced members. So Zabaleta and Burleson to try for summit in best possible weather so waited in ABC till 6th where moved up to C1. 9th to C3 in evening was Zabeleta, Gopal, Lhakpa Rita and Lhakpa Dorje (Burleson turned back because stomach problems). 10th Ang Tshering also to C3; night of 10th all five men to C4 and spent day of 11th there. They left C4 at 00:30 on 12th, Zabelata got sick at C4 but they pressed on anyway but had to turn back because continuing vomiting (had eaten rotten pistachio nuts at C4). Climb finished: illness and people wanted to go home after 2 months and on mountain.
Accidents Gordon and Habeler pneumonia and other illness
Achievement -
Agency Arniko Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450194
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w ridge from n

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Randy Todd Burleson M 1960 USA Leader Reno, Nevada Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Martin Zabaleta Larburu M 1949 Spain Climber Oakland, California Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Vernon Edward (Vern) Tejas M 1953 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert (Bob) John M 1950 USA Climber New Canaan, Connecticut Manager in electronics firm Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mike) Gordon M 1942 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Nightclub owner Details Other expeditions
Brad Neiman M 1942 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Real estate agent Details Other expeditions
Normand Bergeron M - USA Climber Boston, Massachusetts Researcher Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Rita Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Man Bahadur (Gopal) Tamang M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Jaidu, Salleri, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Peter Arndt M 1957 Canada BC Manager Seattle, Washington Electrician & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Peter Habeler M 1942 Austria Climber Mayrhofen, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Eleanor (Ellie) Henke F 1950 USA BC Manager Olympia, Washington Outdoor recreation planner Details Other expeditions
Annie McClenon F 1960 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Student Details Other expeditions
William D. (Willi) Prittie M 1955 USA Climber Olympia, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Karen Weisbard F 1961 USA Climber Jericho, New York Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Chuldin Temba (Chuldim) Sherpa M 1962 Nepal H-A Worker Zarok, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90102 AAJ Burleson, Todd - - 65:286 (1991) -
EVER90102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199128601/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt - - -