Everest | 1990 W Ridge from N

A W Germany/Iran expedition to Everest in 1990 via W Ridge from N, led by Mischa Saleki. Summit reached on 26th May 1990. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 627
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER90101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany/Iran
Leaders Mischa Saleki
Sponsor Saleki to Everest
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1990-02-28
Summit Date 1990-05-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 87
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to psychological exhaustion
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/02,5200m),ABC(08/03,5550m),Biv(26/05,7800m),xxx(26/05,7800m)
Route Notes BC at normal site near road ABC at Main Rongbuk site C2 used US camps (Todd Burleson's expedition) Biv at West Ridge High point at West Ridge. Saleki's ABC between Burleson's ABC and C1; gave "too much love" and hospitality to Habeler, Zabeleta and Burleson. Finally allowed them permission to climb W Ridge, let them use Saleki's ropes and still big problems with them (especially the ethics of commercial expedition, on which leader had to teach members ice climbing at BC and members were guided on every step). They threatened to write against Saleki and "finish him" if he didn't let them to take over his route and thus ruining his plan & devout wish to be alone in his route; promised him $1000 for his lost equipment but didn't pay. They didn't expect their members to get above Saleki's C1. Habeler & Zabeleta were paid $15,000 each to guide clients. Saleki's Sherpas left expedition before C1 established. About 10th March they left after one carry above ABC. Saleki then overwhelmed by American team, who scrapped his plans for camp locations. He then slept in US C1 when they were not there and went to top of spur to W Shoulder but down because impossible to stay there while Americans on route. Down to BC and on to Shigatse where got 20 days extension and returned to BC after Americans had left, arrived BC 20-22 May. Now Saleki up to US C2 where used broken US tent, on up W Ridge and biv at 7800m; ABC 24th May; 25th May to US C2; 26th May biv on W Ridge. Now emotionally exhausted; no further motivation to climb. Slept there one night but now decided to abandon attempt. Afraid of more problems with Chinese Suzuki in early days on mountain; climbed to 600m on spur which leads to W Shoulder and many times to depot at 5900m with Saleki. Germans, etc: Cho Oyu's Haerter and Hupfaur told me they saw Saleki at Shigatse 29th May. Saleki agrees this date possible. They said he was being expelled for raising Tibetan flag on Everest (Saleki says he did not put it there, doesn't know who did) and would never again receive Chinese permit or visa.
Accidents None (Saleki's feet fell into crevasse)
Achievement -
Agency Arniko Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450208
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from n

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mischa Saleki M 1945 W Germany/Iran Leader Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, Germany - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER90101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:286 (1991) -
EVER90101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199128602/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt - - -