Everest | 1989 N Face (Great Couloir)

A Yugoslavia expedition to Everest in 1989 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Darko Berljak. Summit reached on 11th October 1989. 27 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 390
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER89303
Peak ID EVER
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Darko Berljak
Sponsor Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition to Mount Everest
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-08-15
Summit Date 1989-10-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 57
Total Days 65
Termination Date 1989-10-19
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to dangerous snow conditions
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 27
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Guangmrig Peak to 20m below summit
Campsites BC(15/08,5170m),ABC(17/08,5650m),C1(20/08,5900m),C2(03/09,7000m),C3(11/10,7600m),xxx(11/10,7800m)
Route Notes BC at road ABC near point 5560m NGS map C1 at bottom of Changtse West Ridge (near point 6080m NGS map) C2 100m above Australian White Limbo's camp C3 at bottom of Great Couloir. Had an Advance C1 which was depot and rest place, but snow cave, and 100 carries to C2 as an advanced ABC, so time to build up supplies there. Rope above C1 to C2 had to be replaced every 5-6 days because of avalanching. Very dangerous route for avalanching. All 6 members who reached C3 were in avalanches. At highest point man fell 200m from high point down to C3 and reported on walkie-talkie that someone would be killed if tried to go higher. Left BC 19 Oct. Difficult to walk at BC because of wind.
Accidents Kregar fell 400m and broke ribs; Sveticic fell 100m and broke knee
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449935
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir)

Members

27 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edin Alikalfic M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Engineer, mathematical Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Ambrus-Kis M 1954 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Journalist Details Other expeditions
Zdenko Anic M 1951 Yugoslavia C1 Manager Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Mario Bago M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Clerk (nuclear power plants examiner) Details Other expeditions
Velimir Barisic M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Chemical technician Details Other expeditions
Drago Baruskin M 1943 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Janez Benkovic M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Professor of physical education Details Other expeditions
Darko Berljak M 1950 Yugoslavia Leader Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Economist Details Other expeditions
Kresimir Crnic M 1954 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Driver Details Other expeditions
Darko Dular M 1964 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Student of architecture Details Other expeditions
Neven Fantov M 1949 Yugoslavia Transport Manager Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Electro-technician Details Other expeditions
Zeljko Gobec M 1940 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Gymnastics professor Details Other expeditions
Tin Ilakovac M 1958 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Student of automation and computer science Details Other expeditions
Jerko Kirigin M 1942 Yugoslavia ABC Manager Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Boris Kovacevic M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Sarajevo, Bosnia, Yugoslavia Attorney Details Other expeditions
Marjan Kreger M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Ninoslav Kurtalj M 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Dubravko Markovic M 1953 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Pula, Croatia, Yugoslavia Neurologist Details Other expeditions
Berislav Mokos M 1958 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Bozika Papes-Mokos F 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Forestry engineer Details Other expeditions
Franc (Aco) Pepevnik M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Sentjur, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Danko Petrin M 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Student of mechanical engineering Details Other expeditions
Milan Romih M 1960 Yugoslavia Climber Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Farmer Details Other expeditions
Branko Separovic M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Miroslav (Slavko) Sveticic M 1958 Yugoslavia Climber Cerkno, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Danilo (Dani) Tic M 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Economics student Details Other expeditions
Ranko Znidaric M 1964 Yugoslavia Climber Zagrebya Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student of architecture Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER89303 AAJ Berljak, Darko - - 64:303 (1990) -
EVER89303 - Berljak, Darko Dodiri Neba Hrvatski Planinarski Savez, Zagreb - -
EVER89303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199030302/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt - - -