Everest | 1989 N Face (Great Couloir)
A Yugoslavia expedition to Everest in 1989 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Darko Berljak. Summit reached on 11th October 1989. 27 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 390 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER89303 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1989 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Face (Great Couloir) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Darko Berljak |
| Sponsor | Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition to Mount Everest |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1989-08-15 |
| Summit Date | 1989-10-11 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 57 |
| Total Days | 65 |
| Termination Date | 1989-10-19 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7800m due to dangerous snow conditions |
| High Point (m) | 7800 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 27 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Guangmrig Peak to 20m below summit |
| Campsites | BC(15/08,5170m),ABC(17/08,5650m),C1(20/08,5900m),C2(03/09,7000m),C3(11/10,7600m),xxx(11/10,7800m) |
| Route Notes | BC at road ABC near point 5560m NGS map C1 at bottom of Changtse West Ridge (near point 6080m NGS map) C2 100m above Australian White Limbo's camp C3 at bottom of Great Couloir. Had an Advance C1 which was depot and rest place, but snow cave, and 100 carries to C2 as an advanced ABC, so time to build up supplies there. Rope above C1 to C2 had to be replaced every 5-6 days because of avalanching. Very dangerous route for avalanching. All 6 members who reached C3 were in avalanches. At highest point man fell 200m from high point down to C3 and reported on walkie-talkie that someone would be killed if tried to go higher. Left BC 19 Oct. Difficult to walk at BC because of wind. |
| Accidents | Kregar fell 400m and broke ribs; Sveticic fell 100m and broke knee |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Everest Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449935 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (great couloir) |
Members
27 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edin Alikalfic | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Engineer, mathematical | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Ambrus-Kis | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Zdenko Anic | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | C1 Manager | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Bago | M | 1953 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Clerk (nuclear power plants examiner) | Details Other expeditions |
| Velimir Barisic | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Chemical technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Drago Baruskin | M | 1943 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez Benkovic | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Professor of physical education | Details Other expeditions |
| Darko Berljak | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Economist | Details Other expeditions |
| Kresimir Crnic | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Darko Dular | M | 1964 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Student of architecture | Details Other expeditions |
| Neven Fantov | M | 1949 | Yugoslavia | Transport Manager | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Electro-technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Zeljko Gobec | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Gymnastics professor | Details Other expeditions |
| Tin Ilakovac | M | 1958 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Student of automation and computer science | Details Other expeditions |
| Jerko Kirigin | M | 1942 | Yugoslavia | ABC Manager | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Boris Kovacevic | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Sarajevo, Bosnia, Yugoslavia | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Kreger | M | 1956 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Ninoslav Kurtalj | M | 1962 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Dubravko Markovic | M | 1953 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Pula, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Neurologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Berislav Mokos | M | 1958 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bozika Papes-Mokos | F | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Forestry engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Franc (Aco) Pepevnik | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Sentjur, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Factory worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Danko Petrin | M | 1962 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Student of mechanical engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Milan Romih | M | 1960 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Farmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Branko Separovic | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav (Slavko) Sveticic | M | 1958 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Cerkno, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Professional alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Danilo (Dani) Tic | M | 1961 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Economics student | Details Other expeditions |
| Ranko Znidaric | M | 1964 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagrebya Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Student of architecture | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER89303 | AAJ | Berljak, Darko | - | - | 64:303 (1990) | - |
| EVER89303 | - | Berljak, Darko | Dodiri Neba | Hrvatski Planinarski Savez, Zagreb | - | - |
| EVER89303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199030302/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt | - | - | - |