Everest | 1989 NE Ridge (to 7030m)

A USA expedition to Everest in 1989 via NE Ridge (to 7030m), led by Gary Speer. Summit reached on 11th October 1989. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 387
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER89302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge (to 7030m)
Route 2 N Col-NE Ridge (to 8000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Gary Speer
Sponsor Everest, The Unclimbed Ridge
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1989-08-13
Summit Date 1989-10-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 59
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to winds
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits 7000m peak N of Everest
Campsites BC(13/08,5180m),ABC(17/08,6400m),C1(25/08),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(10/10,7800m),xxx(11/10,8000m)
Route Notes BC at road C1 on NE Ridge ("the unclimbed ridge") C2 on N Col C3 on buttress leading to N Ridge High point at N Face. Never got more than 24,000 ft on NE Ridge in 3 attempts to go up ridge but waist-deep snow and set off avalanches from 13th to 24th Sept. Kept building up supplies in C1 in Sept after having fixed rope by 12th, hoping their supplies would go on to higher camps. Decided to abandon NE route about 25th Sept and to go to classical route with Goodwill team. By early Oct, N Ridge looked safe because winds had blown away snow but now winds unbearable. Snow was down to knee-deep; temperature very low and winds c70 mph and blew all night long.
Accidents Walker minor pulmonary edema only
Achievement -
Agency Rover Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449935
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge (to 7030m)

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chris Bellows M 1972 USA Member San Francisco, California Student Details Other expeditions
Kurt E. Fickeisen M 1964 USA Climber Bellevue, Washington Tree pruner Details Other expeditions
Tim Gage M 1952 USA Climber Noxan, Montana Wilderness guide & youth counselor Details Other expeditions
Markus Hutnak M 1966 USA Climber Pullman, Washington Unemployed college graduate Details Other expeditions
Roger P. Mear M 1950 UK Climber London, England Freelance writer & photographer Details Other expeditions
Lorne Riddell M 1949 USA BC Manager Trout Creek, Montana Family counselor Details Other expeditions
Paul Ian Rose M 1951 UK BC Manager Sterth, Milnthrone, Cumbria, England Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
Gary Speer M 1951 USA Leader Clarkston, Washington Film-maker, writer & teacher Details Other expeditions
Rebecca L. Stephens F 1961 UK Climber London, England Journalist Details Other expeditions
Richard Walker M 1948 USA Exp Doctor Spokane, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER89302 AAJ Speer, Gary - - 64:302 (1990) -
EVER89302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199030201/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt-Northeast-Ridge - - -