Everest | 1989 N Face

A Italy expedition to Everest in 1989 via N Face, led by Oreste Forno. Summit reached on 14th June 1989. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 832
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER89201
Peak ID EVER
Year 1989
Season 2
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Oreste Forno
Sponsor Citta de Oggino Expedition to Everest
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ktm->Kodari->Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1989-06-02
Summit Date 1989-06-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1989-06-30
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to snow conditions
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-891-04)
Campsites BC(02/06,5150m),ABC(06/06,5550m),C1(08/06,6100m),C2(11/06,7000m),xxx(14/06,7500m)
Route Notes BC at normal site on road C2 on North Face. 5th June whole team left BC with yaks and in 6th and 7th installed ABC; looked at Japanese Couloir but would need lots of fixed rope and did not want to spend time getting and fixing rope, so decided to go to N Face to Great Couloir. On 11th June had all equipment in C2 for summit push but did not sleep there. Rest in C1 on 12th and on 13th occupied C2. 14th weather bad: clouds coming from Lho La and turned back in snowfall from 7500m and slept in C2. Night of 14th/15th blizzard and had to descend quickly to ABC with avalanching. 15th night warm and glacier between ABC and C1 became dangerous. Weather bad until 21st, 1st day could see mountain again (covered in snow). Up to C1 22nd where one tent broken and others covered with snow. 23rd moved C1 downwards and on 25th tried to go up to remove C2 but unable and same on 26th. 27th finally to C2 and found one tent completely swept away but other tent recovered. Left BC 30th. In July weather was even worse; would have had to wait till Aug.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Trekking International
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449816
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Graziano Bianchi M 1937 Italy Climber Erba, Como, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Oreste Forno M 1951 Italy Leader Osnago, Como, Italy Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergio Martini M 1949 Italy Climber Rovereto, Trento, Italy High school physical education teacher Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli M 1958 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Claudio Schranz M 1949 Italy Climber Macugnaga, Novara, Italy Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER89201 AAJ - - - 64:300-301 (1990) -
EVER89201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199030002/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt - - -