Everest | 1989 SW Face

A France expedition to Everest in 1989 via SW Face, led by Marc Batard. Summit reached on 23rd April 1989. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 476
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER89107
Peak ID EVER
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Marc Batard
Sponsor Marc Batard Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-04-10
Summit Date 1989-04-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1989-04-24
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather and eye problem
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-891-01)
Campsites BC(10/04,5300m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),xxx(23/04,7800m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C2 in Western Cwm High point on SW Face. On 10 April by helicopter KTM to Pheriche and same day to BC with "little headache." 11th and 12th in BC. 13th through Icefall, which was in very bad condition (like 1982) very dangerous, moving often up through it for acclimatization but vowed only one more trip up Icefall. 13th and 14th slept in C1 but reached C2 on 14th. 15th up up face to 7200m with no rock fall at all, strangely, on rock face to right of Bonington route. 16th down from C3 to BC and wait for good weather: very windy. In BC 16-21 April. 22 April up from BC to make entire ascent in 24 hours. Left BC 4:30 pm, in C1 at 6:00 pm with help from others (in C1 team from Americans), in C2 at 8:30 pm and stayed with New Zealanders 2 hours to take drinks and rest. Left C2 at 10:30 pm and 3:00 am 23rd at 7800m in almost full moonlight. All the time windy and saw many big clouds coming from west. At 7800m was just below cold and was very windy which affected his eyes (dried then) because couldn't wear dark goggles at night; eyes painful. "So I came down BC" which reached 9:00 am 23rd. Americans gave eye medicine and 24th to Namche, 25th to Lukla and 26th to KTM. Icefall too dangerous to go up again and wanted to have knee fixed in hospital in France (knee locks sometimes especially in cold). Wants to be in good condition for Sept, when will climb Everest and Lhotse (West Face) in same day alone while climbing, but with support people. Devouassoux body found at bottom of Icefall; identified by clothing, identification of Chamonix guide and mumified face (body cremated in Khumbu 17 May and ashes scattered). "I didn't want to stay in mountain like Devouassoux." Turned back because bad weather and survives. With good weather (no cloud and wind) would have been on summit at 1:00 pm on 23rd and down to South Col. "I think I have enough experience - not the first time I don't climb to top - we have to accept it." Leave KTM 5 May and return in Aug (Thamserku Trekking, Sherpa Hotel). Batard - 9 Apr 1989 He arrived from Annapurna and Pokhara yesterday; hopes to fly to Lukla tomorrow for Everest. "Now I have time" to climb Everest; got little acclimatization on Annapurna so needs 7-10 days acclimatization on Everest. "Better to go to Everest quickly" because of objective dangers on Annapurna and with troublesome knee there are doctors at Everest BC.
Accidents Batard had painfully wind-dried eyes at 7800m
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449764
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marc Marie Bernard Batard M 1951 France Leader Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER89107 AAJ Batard, Marc - - 64:248 (1990) -
EVER89107 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199024801/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-and-Everest-Solo-Attempt - - -