Everest | 1989 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1989 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Karen Fellerhoff, Peter Athans. Summit reached on 24th May 1989. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 481
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER89104
Peak ID EVER
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Karen Fellerhoff, Peter Athans
Sponsor Karen Fellerhoff Snowbird Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 95th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Belgium, New Zealand, Sweden, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-03-30
Summit Date 1989-05-24
Summit Time 0700
Summit Days 55
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,5350m),C1(09/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7150m),C4(04/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Reached S Col: both Burgesses, Hillary, Lagne, Lapkass, MacKenzie, Porzak, Reutersward, Jeff and Kellie Rhoads, Tettelin and Van Snick = 12 of 15 members and all of them to col once without oxygen except Porzak, plus six or eight Sherpas. Those who did not go above it were defeated by winds until 25th May, when it was snowstorm that sent down a party that arrived that day and went down. Now difficult getting off the mountain and no more summit bids. By 29th May there were 2 meters fresh snow at C2; very dangerous. [Aat 11:00 pm 16th the three foreigners [Ball, Hillary and MacKenzie] set out for summit (only Ball without oxygen); reached 8200m. Now Ball too cold, Hillary had throat infection and both turned back (MacKenzie alone 200m more in altitude).] Successful summiters left col at midnight of 23rd each carrying 2 bottles of oxygen and dumped one each at S Summit (Adrian Burgess wanted to do without oxygen but used it for expedition's success; in fact carrying 2 bottles defeated usefulness of using one - did actually move more slowly than he has done without any in earlier years). Adrian and 2 Sherpas at top at 7:00 am, MacKenzie alone at 7:30 am (went back to col to repair crampon). 4 back at col by 10:00 am and Adrian to C2 2:00 pm (did not go through icefall same day because it especially dangerous in afternoon) Whittaker could have gotten to C4 at least, possibly summit.
Accidents Viral flu that laid everyone low at one time or other & many even down to Pheriche
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449795
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter George (Pete) Athans M 1957 USA Climbing Leader Mt. Kisco, New York Alpine guide, instructor & equipment designger Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Deputy Leader Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Karen J. Fellerhoff F 1959 USA Leader Bozeman, Montana Director of adventure-travel company Details Other expeditions
Peter Edmund Hillary M 1954 New Zealand Climber Carlton, Victoria, Australia Writer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Carl Johan Lagne M 1964 Sweden Climber Saltsjobaden, Sweden Student, forestry Details Other expeditions
Andrew Atis (Andy) Lapkass M 1958 USA Climber Ukiah, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mikael Reutersward M 1964 Sweden Climber Stockholm, Sweden Investment banker Details Other expeditions
Jeffery E. (Jeff) Rhoads M 1954 USA Climber Inkom, Idaho Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kellie Anne Erwin-Rhoads F 1956 USA Climber Inkom, Idaho Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Glenn Edward Porzak M 1948 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
Dominique (Nick) Tettelin M 1963 Belgium Climber Leuven, Belgium Architectural and interior designer Details Other expeditions
Rudy Van Snick M 1956 Belgium Climber Vieux Genappe, Belgium Furniture maker & artisan Details Other expeditions
Thomas Granville (Tom) Whittaker M 1948 USA Climber Pocatello, Idaho Teacher, university Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Dendu (Sona Dendu) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Roderick (Roddy) MacKenzie M 1962 Australia Climber Ararat, Victoria, Australia Manager of helicopter-skiing business in India Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER89104 AAJ Burgess, Adrian - - 64:231 (1990) -
EVER89104 MM - - - 128:14 (Jul 1989) -
EVER89104 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023100/Asia-Nepal-Everest - - -