Everest | 1988 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1988 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by James Frush. Summit reached on 29th September 1988. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 490
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER88303
Peak ID EVER
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders James Frush
Sponsor James Frush Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 86th,87th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-08-22
Summit Date 1988-09-29
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 38
Total Days 63
Termination Date 1988-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 28
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/08,5350m),C1(05/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6500m),C3(27/09,7225m),C4(28/09,7900m),Smt(29/09,02/10)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. From 12th to 27th Sept were stocking higher camps without occupying them and sent people down to rest; had problems getting Sherpas to work. Allison, Ruoss, Frush and 3 Sherpas in 1st summit team and occupied C3 and C4 first. Planned these 3 Sherpas would carry extra oxygen as they all set out from Col just after midnight of 28th with Frush and Pasang Gyalzen breaking trail (Frush found snow up to his waist) and took 6 hours to 8500m where intended to change bottles; 2 of 3 Sherpas, Frush now discovered, had turned back very soon after leaving C4 (one complained of tight gaiters and other went with him). Now oxygen supply only good for 4 people for 2 hours and knew would take at least 4 hours so Frush and Ruoss gave extra supply carried by Pasang Gyalzen to Allison. Although Frush and Ruoss felt fine, they felt it better not to try oxygenless ascent and thought would have another chance. 2nd summit bid was by Tabin, Luce and 3 more Sherpas. Never got a team past C3 after this: storm came along on 4th Oct with strong winds. Frush got mild frostbite so could go up only in gentle weather. Frush left BC 14 Oct and when he left 5 climbers were in C2 hoping for summit push. Added data Hambly, Goodman and Dailey on South Col 16 Oct but weather terrible and they went down next day with some frostbite. Petroske and Ruoss twice to C3 and then summit bids had been aborted (1) when French threw 2 Sherpa bodies down face and (2) need to help frostbitten Spaniards descend. Climbing ended on 17th, all off mountain 19th and BC evacuated 24th. Geff Tabin 28 Oct: his party reached summit 40 minutes before Nam of Korean expedition on 2 Oct.
Accidents Frush mild frostbite (could go up only in gentle weather)
Achievement Allison 1st American woman on Everest summit
Agency Jai Himal Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449557
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stacy Marie Allison F 1958 USA Climber Portland, Oregon Builder Details Other expeditions
Diana C. Dailey F 1943 USA Climber Edmonds, Washington High school mathematics teacher Details Other expeditions
Jean Francois Ellis M 1946 USA Climber Dana Point, California Physician Details Other expeditions
C. James (Jim) Frush M 1950 USA Leader Seattle, Washington Attorney Details Other expeditions
Donald James Goodman M 1956 USA Deputy Leader Seattle, Washington Manager (Boeing Co quality assurance) Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Hambly M 1939 UK Climber Seattle, Washington Aircraft engineer Details Other expeditions
Peggy Luce F 1958 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Bicycle messenger Details Other expeditions
Lawrence MacBean M 1943 USA BC Manager Cape Elizabeth, Maine Corporation executive Details Other expeditions
John Martin Petroske M 1960 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Unemployed computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Steven John (Steve) Ruoss M 1954 USA Climber San Francisco, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Charles (Chuck) Schertz M 1954 USA Climber Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Physician Details Other expeditions
Robert Singer M 1929 USA Exp Doctor 1 Richmond, Virginia Neurosurgeon Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey Craig Tabin M 1956 USA Exp Doctor 2 Glencoe, Illinois Physician Details Other expeditions
Pasang Gyalgen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thumbuk (Jorsali), Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Nima Tashi Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Phu Dorje Sherpa M 1962 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tshering Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Gumela (Rimijung), Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER88303 AAJ Allison, Stacy & Tabin, Geoffrey Thoughts About Everest - 63:18-22 (1989) -
EVER88303 - Tabin, Geoff Blind Corners ICS Books, Merville, IN - T295
EVER88303 - Allison, Stacy Beyond the Limits Little, Brown & Co, Boston - A323
EVER88303 MM - - - 125:10 (Jan 1989) -
EVER88303 SMT Kaiser, Steve Climbers From the Northwest Summit Magazine 15-19 (Jan 1989) -
EVER88303 SMT Pregnall, Stuart Americans on Top: Two Climbers on Evrest Summit Magazine 12-14 (Mar 1989) -
EVER88303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198901800/Thoughts-about-Everest - - -