Everest | 1988 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)

A France expedition to Everest in 1988 via N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs), led by Benoit Chamoux. Summit reached on 16th September 1988. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 792
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER88302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Benoit Chamoux
Sponsor L'Esprit d'Equipe - 1988 Everest
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, Italy, USA
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1988-08-16
Summit Date 1988-09-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1988-09-23
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8650m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 8650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(14/08,5200m),BC(16/08,5600m),C1(23/08,6200m),C2(27/08,7200m),C3(30/08,7850m),xxx(16/09,8650m)
Route Notes C2 at bivs above near top of Japanese Couloir C3 below Hornbein Couloir (2 hours below, 3 tents) High point at West Ridge. From BC 6th Sept 1st summit bid and stopped at 8200m because very cold. Boyer, Chamoux, Campredon, Parmentier, Rakoncaj, Rossi, Sichap, Dorotei, Tournaire and 2 Sherpas so back to C3. Then down in bad weather. Next summit bid 13th Sep from BC and got on 16th Sep to 8600m at 3 pm, too high for biv without frostbite with no oxygen; had no rope [Dorotei to 8300m, Boyer to 8450m, Rossi and Chamoux to 8650m, Rakonaj and Camredon to c8600m, Tournaire and Parmentier to c8600m]. Here technically difficult at W Ridge. Down to C3 on 16th and 3 of them to BC on 17th while Parmentier stayed in C3 with plan to solo to top in good weather. From 17th to 24th snow fall daily and very cold and windy (constant snow). Parmentier 17-18th in C3, 19th up and pitched small tent at 8200m, 20th up in Hornbein's deep snow. At 1 pm his track seen to 8400m, then cloudy and no further contact on sighting (21st briefly clear and even track not seen). 22nd up from BC Chamoux, Campredon and Rakoncaj in 3rd summit bid and C1 very windy and down to BC next day and climb finished. Last members on mountain left Chinese BC 27th. Snowfall had brought avalanche danger (which probably took Parmentier). Lluis Belvis (Spanish Everest) - 20 Oct 1988 (regarding Parmentier's death) Members of this expedition found Parmentier at 7700m about 50m beside his tent. They speculate that he had been unable to find the tent and froze to death (unable because of bad weather probably). Body found in early Oct.
Accidents Boyer slight edema
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449544
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (japanese & hornbein couloirs)

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stephen (Steve) Boyer M 1946 USA Exp Doctor Portland, Oregon Physician Details Other expeditions
Benoit Chamoux M 1961 France Leader La Roche-sur-Foron, Haute-Savoie, France Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Campredon M 1961 France Climber Paris, France Agronomist & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Agostino Da Polenza M 1955 Italy Climber Albino, Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michel Parmentier M 1950 France Film Team Paris, France Television cameraman & journalist Details Other expeditions
Josef Rakoncaj M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Turnov, Czechoslovakia Designer Details Other expeditions
Mauro Rossi M 1957 Italy Climber Gravellona Toce, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Rousset M 1948 France Climber Nanterre, Hauts-de-Seine, France Director of communications (Bull Electronics Corporation) Details Other expeditions
Volodia Shahshahani M 1945 France Climber Biviers, Isere, France Writer & journalist Details Other expeditions
Georges Stephane Sichap M 1948 France Climber Gaillard, Haute-Savoie, France Hydraulic engineer Details Other expeditions
Soro Dorotei M 1951 Italy Climber Belluno, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Patrick Suarez M 1952 France Climber Jouy-le-Moutier, Val-d'Oise, France Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Pascal Pierre Tournaire M 1959 France Climber Paris, France Art director & photographer Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER88302 AAJ Boyer, Steve - - 63:275-276 (1989) -
EVER88302 - Chamoux, Benoit Montagnes de L'Esprit Robert Laffont, Paris - C126
EVER88302 MM - - - 124:10 (Nov 1988) -
EVER88302 - Chamoux, Benoit Le Vertige de L'Infini Albin Michel, Paris - C125
EVER88302 - Da Polenza, Agostino Everest-K2, Montage di Sogno Ferrari Editrice, Clusone, Bergamo, Italy - D33
EVER88302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198927500/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt-via-Hornbein-Couloir-and-Tragedy - - -