Everest | 1987 W Ridge from N

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1987 via W Ridge from N, led by Takashi Kawakami. Summit reached on 12th October 1987. 30 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 458
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER87301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takashi Kawakami
Sponsor Japan Everest Expedition 1987
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Half members via Lhasa->half via KTM
Basecamp Date 1987-07-30
Summit Date 1987-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 74
Total Days 83
Termination Date 1987-10-21
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due to heavy snowfall, time running out
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 29
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/07,5150m),ABC(06/08,5700m),C2(11/08,5900m),C3(10/09,6700m),C4(28/09,7000m),C5(01/10),C6(12/10,8100m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
Route Notes BC at Rongbuk Glacier C2 east of Lho La slightly C3 slightly below shoulder C4 on West Shoulder/Ridge C5 on West Ridge C6 in small couloir: 1st couloir east of W Ridge High point at C6. Sherpas little more first making route for Japanese members who wever never before in Himalayas including climbing leader. All members from Japanese army and most in mid or late 20's. Some 55-65 years old (65 years old to C2). Unable to go above C4 because too much snow brought avalanching. Along ridge climbers started avalanching and couloir was avalanching funnel. Big snowstorm approaching 17th Oct and all called down to C2 or below. Never went back up from C2 again because all high camps crushed and of no use. Schedule called for return to Japan 10th Nov. Japanese Expedition to the Himalayas in 1987 China, Qomolangma (Mt. Everest 8848m) The Defence Academy team led by Takashi Kawakami comprised 30 [29 without honorary leader Motoharu Arima] members, challenged this peak in autumn by the West Ridge via the Rongbuk Glacier. Their climbing leader, Masaoh Yokoyama (44), however, was killed on Sept 2 by an accident when he failed to jump over a stream running on the glacier between BC and C1 and bumped his head seriously against a stone. The team, in spite of this tragedy, continued their climbing, which was forced to abandon at the last third of Oct after they got to 8200m. Rick Allen - 7 Nov 87 Japanese left BC just before Steve Van Meter; got to about 7500m on end of shoulder/start of ridge. Allen thought their Sherpas had left Tibet. Japanese Defense Academy Cleared all camps and all to ABC 27th Oct; should reach KTM (Sherpas at least) about 5-8 Nov. No more deaths. Reached 8200m on West Ridge about 15 Oct. How many now known: about 1 Japanese and 3 Sherpas. Jack Turner - 1 Oct 87 Lots of snow and wind 25,000 ft at shoulder. Japanese established C4 at top of buttress to West Ridge. Hhad lost C3 in avalanche (was 1500 ft below shoulder at 15 Sept). 12-14 men shuttling to C4 and not badly affected by wind. Total 42 Japanese and Sherpas. Japanese climbing leader died while alone crossing East Rangbuk Glacier. Japanese Expedition 29 Japanese 18 Sherpas West Ridge route Climbing leader died when he fell into East Rongbuk River the day after he killed a sheep despite ban on killing animals in area. Lots of fixed rope, oxygen; other members mostly young men.
Accidents Deputy leader hurt knee; 1 Japanese and 2 Sherpas ill and went home; climbing leader drowned between BC and C1
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449203
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w ridge from n

Members

30 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ryohei Karino M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Takashi Kawakami M - Japan Leader Japan - Details Other expeditions
Masao Yokoyama M - Japan Climbing Leader Japan - Details Other expeditions
Keiichiro Matsumoto M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Isao Kobayashi M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Wakaura M - Japan Deputy Leader Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Sawamoto M - Japan Exp Doctor Japan - Details Other expeditions
Isao Fukura M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yohichiro Yamaguchi M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kohichi Wakui M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Hineno M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kohichiro Takahashi M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshitaka Ueda M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Mikio Hosada M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Toshio Iwasaki M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Toshizi Satoh M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Matsuoka M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Isamu Magami M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yukinori Kiyosawa M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Katsuhiko Chiba M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Chikara Shinoda M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Osamu Yoshida M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kesazi Kawauchi M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal Sirdar Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Naohiko Osaki M - Japan General Affairs Japan - Details Other expeditions
Takumi Sugie M - Japan Exp Doctor Japan - Details Other expeditions
Minao Kitamura M - Japan Cameraman Japan - Details Other expeditions
Taroh Akashi M - Japan Cameraman Japan - Details Other expeditions
Noriyuki Muraguchi M 1956 Japan Cameraman Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshikazu Ino M 1959 Japan Cameraman Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER87301 AAJ Tambe, Sadao - - 62:272 (1988) -
EVER87301 JAC Kawakami, Takashi The Defence Academy Alpine Club Mt. Qomolangma Expedition 1987 - 83:A36-38 (1988) -
EVER87301 JAC Kawakami, Takashi The Defence Academy Alpine Club Mt. Qomolangma Expedition 1987 - 83:73-78 (1988) -
EVER87301 IWA - - - :278 (1988) -
EVER87301 IWA - - - :46-47 (1988) -
EVER87301 - Matsumoto, Keiichiro The Third Goddess The Author, Maizuru, Japan - jM48
EVER87301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198827202/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Tragedy - - -