Everest | 1987 W Ridge from N
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1987 via W Ridge from N, led by Takashi Kawakami. Summit reached on 12th October 1987. 30 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 458 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER87301 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1987 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge from N |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Takashi Kawakami |
| Sponsor | Japan Everest Expedition 1987 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Half members via Lhasa->half via KTM |
| Basecamp Date | 1987-07-30 |
| Summit Date | 1987-10-12 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 74 |
| Total Days | 83 |
| Termination Date | 1987-10-21 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8100m due to heavy snowfall, time running out |
| High Point (m) | 8100 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 29 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 15 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/07,5150m),ABC(06/08,5700m),C2(11/08,5900m),C3(10/09,6700m),C4(28/09,7000m),C5(01/10),C6(12/10,8100m),xxx(12/10,8100m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Rongbuk Glacier C2 east of Lho La slightly C3 slightly below shoulder C4 on West Shoulder/Ridge C5 on West Ridge C6 in small couloir: 1st couloir east of W Ridge High point at C6. Sherpas little more first making route for Japanese members who wever never before in Himalayas including climbing leader. All members from Japanese army and most in mid or late 20's. Some 55-65 years old (65 years old to C2). Unable to go above C4 because too much snow brought avalanching. Along ridge climbers started avalanching and couloir was avalanching funnel. Big snowstorm approaching 17th Oct and all called down to C2 or below. Never went back up from C2 again because all high camps crushed and of no use. Schedule called for return to Japan 10th Nov. Japanese Expedition to the Himalayas in 1987 China, Qomolangma (Mt. Everest 8848m) The Defence Academy team led by Takashi Kawakami comprised 30 [29 without honorary leader Motoharu Arima] members, challenged this peak in autumn by the West Ridge via the Rongbuk Glacier. Their climbing leader, Masaoh Yokoyama (44), however, was killed on Sept 2 by an accident when he failed to jump over a stream running on the glacier between BC and C1 and bumped his head seriously against a stone. The team, in spite of this tragedy, continued their climbing, which was forced to abandon at the last third of Oct after they got to 8200m. Rick Allen - 7 Nov 87 Japanese left BC just before Steve Van Meter; got to about 7500m on end of shoulder/start of ridge. Allen thought their Sherpas had left Tibet. Japanese Defense Academy Cleared all camps and all to ABC 27th Oct; should reach KTM (Sherpas at least) about 5-8 Nov. No more deaths. Reached 8200m on West Ridge about 15 Oct. How many now known: about 1 Japanese and 3 Sherpas. Jack Turner - 1 Oct 87 Lots of snow and wind 25,000 ft at shoulder. Japanese established C4 at top of buttress to West Ridge. Hhad lost C3 in avalanche (was 1500 ft below shoulder at 15 Sept). 12-14 men shuttling to C4 and not badly affected by wind. Total 42 Japanese and Sherpas. Japanese climbing leader died while alone crossing East Rangbuk Glacier. Japanese Expedition 29 Japanese 18 Sherpas West Ridge route Climbing leader died when he fell into East Rongbuk River the day after he killed a sheep despite ban on killing animals in area. Lots of fixed rope, oxygen; other members mostly young men. |
| Accidents | Deputy leader hurt knee; 1 Japanese and 2 Sherpas ill and went home; climbing leader drowned between BC and C1 |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449203 |
| Year | 1987 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge from n |
Members
30 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ryohei Karino | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Kawakami | M | - | Japan | Leader | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Masao Yokoyama | M | - | Japan | Climbing Leader | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Keiichiro Matsumoto | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Isao Kobayashi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshihiro Wakaura | M | - | Japan | Deputy Leader | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiaki Sawamoto | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Isao Fukura | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yohichiro Yamaguchi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kohichi Wakui | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinichi Hineno | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kohichiro Takahashi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshitaka Ueda | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikio Hosada | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshio Iwasaki | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshizi Satoh | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Matsuoka | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Isamu Magami | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yukinori Kiyosawa | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuhiko Chiba | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chikara Shinoda | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Osamu Yoshida | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kesazi Kawauchi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | Sirdar | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Naohiko Osaki | M | - | Japan | General Affairs | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Takumi Sugie | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Minao Kitamura | M | - | Japan | Cameraman | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Taroh Akashi | M | - | Japan | Cameraman | Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Noriyuki Muraguchi | M | 1956 | Japan | Cameraman | Tokyo, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshikazu Ino | M | 1959 | Japan | Cameraman | Tokyo, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER87301 | AAJ | Tambe, Sadao | - | - | 62:272 (1988) | - |
| EVER87301 | JAC | Kawakami, Takashi | The Defence Academy Alpine Club Mt. Qomolangma Expedition 1987 | - | 83:A36-38 (1988) | - |
| EVER87301 | JAC | Kawakami, Takashi | The Defence Academy Alpine Club Mt. Qomolangma Expedition 1987 | - | 83:73-78 (1988) | - |
| EVER87301 | IWA | - | - | - | :278 (1988) | - |
| EVER87301 | IWA | - | - | - | :46-47 (1988) | - |
| EVER87301 | - | Matsumoto, Keiichiro | The Third Goddess | The Author, Maizuru, Japan | - | jM48 |
| EVER87301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198827202/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Tragedy | - | - | - |