Everest | 1987 SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m)

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Everest in 1987 via SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m), led by Ivan Galfy. Summit reached on 25th April 1987. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 448
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER87103
Peak ID EVER
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m)
Route 2 SW Face (Bonington 1975 rte) (to 7900m)
Route 3 S Pillar-S Col (to 7900m)
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Ivan Galfy
Sponsor Czechoslovak Everest Expedition 1987
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-03-26
Summit Date 1987-04-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 64
Termination Date 1987-05-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8250m due to high winds, lack of Sherpa support, and end of permit's period of time
High Point (m) 8250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 23
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(15/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7200m),C5(14/05,7950m),C6(22/05,8200m),xxx(25/05,8250m)
Route Notes BC at 5350m at bottom of Khumbu Icefall C1 at 6050m at top of Icefall C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm left side at bottom of SW Face C3 at 6900m at same as Bonington C4 in 1975 C4 at 7200m at same as " C4 in 1975 C5 at 7950m at 2 pitches higher than Bonington 1972 C6 at 8200m at last camp of Bonington 1972 High point on face. In BC decided to climb only one route because many members sick and it was extremely important to have success for one. Galfy in politics of Czechoslovak sports and 4 members authorized for alpine-style ascent on Bonington 1975 route (reached only 7900m). Main group climbed mostly on Bonington 1972 route (except in between C4 and C5 to right of great gully) and reached 8250m. At end of May, 1 member alone to S Col to try to get someone to top but terrible winds drove him back. 3 others went to S Pillar and slept in Spaniards' C4. By all routes it was wind that drove would be summiters back. In addition climbers in C6 were exhausted from long time at high altitude without O2 and no Sherpa support. Only one Sherpa went as far as C2 while others went home early; in last week of May, members started leaving BC to go to KTM with only 4 left on 30 May, because of transport problem. 4 members who attempted alpine-style ascent via 1975 route were the only ones who had been to 8000m summits before: Becik, Bozik, Rokancaj and Stejskal.
Accidents None except much chest infection
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Explorers
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449033
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face (bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m)

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Josef Rakoncaj M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Turnov, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Dusan Becik M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Architect Details Other expeditions
Peter Bozik M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Leos Chladek M 1936 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Liberec, Czechoslovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Zdislav Drlik M 1948 Czechoslovakia Climber Popard, Czechoslovakia Repairman Details Other expeditions
Ivan Galfy M 1933 Czechoslovakia Leader Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert Galfy M 1960 Czechoslovakia Climber Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stanislav Glejdura M 1957 Czechoslovakia Climber Dobsina, Czechoslovakia Repairman Details Other expeditions
Jindrich Hudecek M 1964 Czechoslovakia Climber Decin, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Jaroslav Jasko M 1961 Czechoslovakia Climber Popard, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Jozef Just M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Maintenance worker of tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Anton Krizo M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Popard, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Jindrich (Jindra) Martis M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Tatranska Polianka, Czechoslovakia Blacksmith Details Other expeditions
Stanislav Marton M 1950 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Josef (Pepino) Nezerka M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Milos Nosek M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Liberec, Czechoslovakia Maintenance worker of tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Igor Novak M 1949 Czechoslovakia Deputy Leader Prague, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Leopold Palenicek M 1941 Czechoslovakia Climber Pardubice, Czechoslovakia Maintenance worker of tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Smid M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Police nad Metuji, Czechoslovakia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Jaromir (Jaryk) Stejskal M 1949 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Leopold Sulovsky M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Ostrava, Czechoslovakia Engineer, building Details Other expeditions
Juraj Weincziller M 1937 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Cameraman (film) Details Other expeditions
Ervin Velic M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Kosice, Czechoslovakia Repairman Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER87103 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:202 (1988) -
EVER87103 - Smid, Miroslav Ze Zivota Horolezce Olympia, Prague - S605
EVER87103 - Stejskal, Jaryk & Vranka, Milan Zabudni na Everest Sport, Bratislava - S736
EVER87103 MM - - - 116:9 (Jul 1987) -
EVER87103 - Rakoncaj, Josef Tulakem Ve Vetru Himalaje Edice Okamiziky, Hradci Kralov, Czechoslovakia - R37
EVER87103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820201/Asia-Nepal-Czechoslovakian-Everest-Attempt - - -