Everest | 1987 SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m)
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Everest in 1987 via SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m), led by Ivan Galfy. Summit reached on 25th April 1987. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 448 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER87103 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1987 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m) |
| Route 2 | SW Face (Bonington 1975 rte) (to 7900m) |
| Route 3 | S Pillar-S Col (to 7900m) |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Ivan Galfy |
| Sponsor | Czechoslovak Everest Expedition 1987 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1987-03-26 |
| Summit Date | 1987-04-25 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 30 |
| Total Days | 64 |
| Termination Date | 1987-05-29 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8250m due to high winds, lack of Sherpa support, and end of permit's period of time |
| High Point (m) | 8250 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 23 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(15/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7200m),C5(14/05,7950m),C6(22/05,8200m),xxx(25/05,8250m) |
| Route Notes | BC at 5350m at bottom of Khumbu Icefall C1 at 6050m at top of Icefall C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm left side at bottom of SW Face C3 at 6900m at same as Bonington C4 in 1975 C4 at 7200m at same as " C4 in 1975 C5 at 7950m at 2 pitches higher than Bonington 1972 C6 at 8200m at last camp of Bonington 1972 High point on face. In BC decided to climb only one route because many members sick and it was extremely important to have success for one. Galfy in politics of Czechoslovak sports and 4 members authorized for alpine-style ascent on Bonington 1975 route (reached only 7900m). Main group climbed mostly on Bonington 1972 route (except in between C4 and C5 to right of great gully) and reached 8250m. At end of May, 1 member alone to S Col to try to get someone to top but terrible winds drove him back. 3 others went to S Pillar and slept in Spaniards' C4. By all routes it was wind that drove would be summiters back. In addition climbers in C6 were exhausted from long time at high altitude without O2 and no Sherpa support. Only one Sherpa went as far as C2 while others went home early; in last week of May, members started leaving BC to go to KTM with only 4 left on 30 May, because of transport problem. 4 members who attempted alpine-style ascent via 1975 route were the only ones who had been to 8000m summits before: Becik, Bozik, Rokancaj and Stejskal. |
| Accidents | None except much chest infection |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Explorers |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449033 |
| Year | 1987 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face (bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m) |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Josef Rakoncaj | M | 1951 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Turnov, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Dusan Becik | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Bozik | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Leos Chladek | M | 1936 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Liberec, Czechoslovakia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Zdislav Drlik | M | 1948 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Repairman | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivan Galfy | M | 1933 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Galfy | M | 1960 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav Glejdura | M | 1957 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Dobsina, Czechoslovakia | Repairman | Details Other expeditions |
| Jindrich Hudecek | M | 1964 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Decin, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaroslav Jasko | M | 1961 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jozef Just | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Maintenance worker of tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Anton Krizo | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jindrich (Jindra) Martis | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Polianka, Czechoslovakia | Blacksmith | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav Marton | M | 1950 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef (Pepino) Nezerka | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Milos Nosek | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Liberec, Czechoslovakia | Maintenance worker of tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Igor Novak | M | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Deputy Leader | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Leopold Palenicek | M | 1941 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Pardubice, Czechoslovakia | Maintenance worker of tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Smid | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Police nad Metuji, Czechoslovakia | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaromir (Jaryk) Stejskal | M | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Leopold Sulovsky | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Ostrava, Czechoslovakia | Engineer, building | Details Other expeditions |
| Juraj Weincziller | M | 1937 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Cameraman (film) | Details Other expeditions |
| Ervin Velic | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Kosice, Czechoslovakia | Repairman | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER87103 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 62:202 (1988) | - |
| EVER87103 | - | Smid, Miroslav | Ze Zivota Horolezce | Olympia, Prague | - | S605 |
| EVER87103 | - | Stejskal, Jaryk & Vranka, Milan | Zabudni na Everest | Sport, Bratislava | - | S736 |
| EVER87103 | MM | - | - | - | 116:9 (Jul 1987) | - |
| EVER87103 | - | Rakoncaj, Josef | Tulakem Ve Vetru Himalaje | Edice Okamiziky, Hradci Kralov, Czechoslovakia | - | R37 |
| EVER87103 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820201/Asia-Nepal-Czechoslovakian-Everest-Attempt | - | - | - |