Everest | 1986 NE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1986 via NE Ridge, led by John (Brummie) Stokes. Summit reached on 15th October 1986. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 442
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER86301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders John (Brummie) Stokes
Sponsor Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-08-07
Summit Date 1986-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 69
Total Days 72
Termination Date 1986-10-18
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to heavy snowfall, avalanche danger
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 23
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/08,5200m),YakCamp(15/08,5800m),ABC(18/08,6500m),C1(24/08,7000m),C2(01/09,7300m),C3(15/10,8000m),xxx(15/10,8000m)
Route Notes BC at Rongbuk Glacier C1 at East Rongbuk Glacier C2 just below first buttress (snowhole) C3 close to first Pinnacle's steep slope High point at C2. Peter Athans, American team (McKinney) - 24 Jan 2009 No Sherpas from our team were killed. There was a British team that lost a young Sherpa from Phortse village and I believe his name was Ang Phu or Phu Tashi. I don't remember specifically. [Death at BC?] Ang Jangbu (Phortse) - 14 Dec 2012 Ang Jangbu does not think any Sherpas from Phortse were killed on the north side of Everest in Autumn 1986.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448840
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Julian Vincent (Mo) Anthoine M 1939 UK Climber North Wales - Details Other expeditions
William Geoffrey (Bill) Barker M 1943 UK Climber Dolwyddelen, Gwynedd, Wales - Details Other expeditions
Joseph (Joe) Brown M 1930 UK Climber Llanberis, Gwynedd, Wales - Details Other expeditions
John S. C. English M 1955 UK Exp Doctor London, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Ronald Henry (Ronnie) Faux M 1935 UK Journalist Burntisland, Fife, Scotland Writer Details Other expeditions
William C. (Paddy) Freaney M 1938 New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Nigel Goldsack M - UK Film Team - - Details Other expeditions
Patrick Green M - UK BC Manager - Professional chef & cook Details Other expeditions
Loel Guinness M 1957 UK BC Manager UK - Details Other expeditions
Philip James Horniblow M 1928 UK BC Manager - Physician Details Other expeditions
Alastair (Ali) Kellas M 1944 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Chris Knowles M - UK Film Team - - Details Other expeditions
Steven Ley M - UK Film Team - - Details Other expeditions
Pete Long M 1950 UK Climber Scotland - Details Other expeditions
Paul Anthony Moores M 1952 UK Deputy Leader Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland - Details Other expeditions
Paul James Nunn M 1943 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England - Details Other expeditions
Trevor James Pilling M 1956 UK Climber Worcester, England - Details Other expeditions
Tony Riley M 1942 UK Film Team Cheltenham, Gloucester, England - Details Other expeditions
Sam Roberts M 1945 UK Climber North Wales - Details Other expeditions
Clive Rowlands M - UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
John Henry (Brummie) Stokes M 1945 UK Leader - Retired from army Details Other expeditions
Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor M 1958 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Will Thompson M - UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER86301 AAJ Stokes, Brummie - - 61:301-302 (1987) -
EVER86301 AJ Faux, Ronald Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition - 92:92-97 (1987) -
EVER86301 - Stokes, Brummie Soldiers and Sherpas Michael Joseph, London - S766
EVER86301 MM - - - 112:10 (Nov 1986) -
EVER86301 - Stokes, Brummie Soldiers and Sherpas (2nd ed) By author, Hereford - -
EVER86301 - Alvarez, Al Feeding the Rat Bloomsbury, London - A183
EVER86301 NZAJ Freaney, Paddy Everest '86 - 40:86-87 (1987) -
EVER86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198730100/Asia-China-Everest-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt - - -
EVER86301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1987_files/AJ%201987%2092-97%20Faux%20Everest.pdf - - -