Everest | 1986 NE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 1986 via NE Ridge, led by John (Brummie) Stokes. Summit reached on 15th October 1986. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 442 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER86301 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | John (Brummie) Stokes |
| Sponsor | Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | New Zealand |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-08-07 |
| Summit Date | 1986-10-15 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 69 |
| Total Days | 72 |
| Termination Date | 1986-10-18 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8000m due to heavy snowfall, avalanche danger |
| High Point (m) | 8000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 23 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/08,5200m),YakCamp(15/08,5800m),ABC(18/08,6500m),C1(24/08,7000m),C2(01/09,7300m),C3(15/10,8000m),xxx(15/10,8000m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Rongbuk Glacier C1 at East Rongbuk Glacier C2 just below first buttress (snowhole) C3 close to first Pinnacle's steep slope High point at C2. Peter Athans, American team (McKinney) - 24 Jan 2009 No Sherpas from our team were killed. There was a British team that lost a young Sherpa from Phortse village and I believe his name was Ang Phu or Phu Tashi. I don't remember specifically. [Death at BC?] Ang Jangbu (Phortse) - 14 Dec 2012 Ang Jangbu does not think any Sherpas from Phortse were killed on the north side of Everest in Autumn 1986. |
| Accidents | Nothing serious |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448840 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Julian Vincent (Mo) Anthoine | M | 1939 | UK | Climber | North Wales | - | Details Other expeditions |
| William Geoffrey (Bill) Barker | M | 1943 | UK | Climber | Dolwyddelen, Gwynedd, Wales | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Joseph (Joe) Brown | M | 1930 | UK | Climber | Llanberis, Gwynedd, Wales | - | Details Other expeditions |
| John S. C. English | M | 1955 | UK | Exp Doctor | London, England | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ronald Henry (Ronnie) Faux | M | 1935 | UK | Journalist | Burntisland, Fife, Scotland | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| William C. (Paddy) Freaney | M | 1938 | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nigel Goldsack | M | - | UK | Film Team | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Patrick Green | M | - | UK | BC Manager | - | Professional chef & cook | Details Other expeditions |
| Loel Guinness | M | 1957 | UK | BC Manager | UK | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip James Horniblow | M | 1928 | UK | BC Manager | - | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Alastair (Ali) Kellas | M | 1944 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chris Knowles | M | - | UK | Film Team | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Steven Ley | M | - | UK | Film Team | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pete Long | M | 1950 | UK | Climber | Scotland | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Anthony Moores | M | 1952 | UK | Deputy Leader | Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul James Nunn | M | 1943 | UK | Climber | Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Trevor James Pilling | M | 1956 | UK | Climber | Worcester, England | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tony Riley | M | 1942 | UK | Film Team | Cheltenham, Gloucester, England | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sam Roberts | M | 1945 | UK | Climber | North Wales | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Clive Rowlands | M | - | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| John Henry (Brummie) Stokes | M | 1945 | UK | Leader | - | Retired from army | Details Other expeditions |
| Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Will Thompson | M | - | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
9 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER86301 | AAJ | Stokes, Brummie | - | - | 61:301-302 (1987) | - |
| EVER86301 | AJ | Faux, Ronald | Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition | - | 92:92-97 (1987) | - |
| EVER86301 | - | Stokes, Brummie | Soldiers and Sherpas | Michael Joseph, London | - | S766 |
| EVER86301 | MM | - | - | - | 112:10 (Nov 1986) | - |
| EVER86301 | - | Stokes, Brummie | Soldiers and Sherpas (2nd ed) | By author, Hereford | - | - |
| EVER86301 | - | Alvarez, Al | Feeding the Rat | Bloomsbury, London | - | A183 |
| EVER86301 | NZAJ | Freaney, Paddy | Everest '86 | - | 40:86-87 (1987) | - |
| EVER86301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198730100/Asia-China-Everest-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt | - | - | - |
| EVER86301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1987_files/AJ%201987%2092-97%20Faux%20Everest.pdf | - | - | - |