Everest | 1986 N Col-NE Ridge

A Chile expedition to Everest in 1986 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Claudio Lucero. Summit reached on 16th August 1986. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 438
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER86203
Peak ID EVER
Year 1986
Season 2
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Chile
Leaders Claudio Lucero
Sponsor Chilean Everest N Col Expedition 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-08-10
Summit Date 1986-08-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 6
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to member's death in bad snow
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/08),xxx(16/08,7600m)
Route Notes Al Read - 16 Sept 86 Chilean was killed by avalanche which he precipitated by falling through cornice at North Col. Were on traditional British/Chinese route via North Col. 5-6 members plus 5-6 Sherpas. Later in 1986, a team of young mountaineers from the Catholic Univ began the second Chile attempt on Everest. Above the North Col at 7000m and at the precise moment when the depot for the attack camp was being prepared, loosened piece of the cornice struck Victor-Hugo Trujillo and he fell nearly 700 vertical meters. His instanteous death put an end to this attempt. Source "Everest, The Challenge of the Dream" by Rodrigo Jordan Fuchs, pg 110. Paul Firth - 13 December 2007 Account forwarded from Argentine sources: "The 16th August 1986, when Trujillo was a bit higher than the northern 'Collado', he got to near the side that crumbled under his weight. As he was not tied to the rest, he fell 700 meters and died due to the fall. His body was rescued and buried by his friends in a beautiful place in the same valley where the Advanced Base Camp is located. He is still there."
Accidents 1 member killed in avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448780
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pedro Bralic M - Chile Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Fernando Garcia-Huidobro M - Chile Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Marcelo Gifferos M - Chile Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Christian Garcia-Huidobro Valdivieso M 1961 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile - Details Other expeditions
Rodrigo Hernan Jordan Fuchs M 1959 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile - Details Other expeditions
Claudio Lucero Martinez M 1933 Chile Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Juan Andres Marambio Smith M - Chile Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Pablo Straub M - Chile Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Victor-Hugo Trujillo M - Chile Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER86203 AAJ Eguskitza, Xavier - - 61:300 (1987) -
EVER86203 MM - - - 111:11 (Sep 1986) -
EVER86203 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198730001/Asia-China-Everest-Tragedy-North-Col-Route - - -