Everest | 1986 N Col (to 7000m)

A Canada expedition to Everest in 1986 via N Col (to 7000m), led by Roger Marshall. Summit reached on 18th September 1986. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 437
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER86201
Peak ID EVER
Year 1986
Season 2
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col (to 7000m)
Route 2 N Face (Japanese Couloir) (to 7710m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Roger Marshall
Sponsor 1986 Everest Solo
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-07-01
Summit Date 1986-09-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 79
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7710m due to deep snow and fatigue
High Point (m) 7710
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/07,5200m),ABC(08/07,6200m),C1(19/08,7000m),NewABC1(02/09,5500m),NewABC2(4-5/09,5950m),xxx(18/09,7710m)
Route Notes BC at Rongbuk Glacier before Main and East Glacier spot ABC 12 miles from BC up East Rongbuk at foot of North Col C1 at North Col New ABC at Main Rongbuk (Lake Camp) New ABC at foot of Changtse High point near bottom of Hornbein Couloir. Bad weather (heavy snow) in July left him skiing to Lho La and watching snow conditions. 12 Aug put tent on Col (not erected) and down. 19 Aug to Col and slept there only one night because again heavy snowfall; down to BC. 29 Aug BC to North Col and slept 2 nights there and down again. Now decided to go to Hornbein Couloir (on 30th saw Swiss at top of Hornbein). Moved to bottom of N Face but more heavy snowfall. 15 Sept weather cleared and up to ABC.1 16th, ABC.2 17th. 9:00 pm 17th Sept in full moonlight made summit bid, but went off course to right of direct line (was very tired) and on 18th realized unable to get to top since didn't know where he was and couldn't see the route. Webster (photographer) went twice to North Col with Marshall to take photos. Ruth DeCew to 2nd ABC on Hornbein route (Webster had gone home). Al Read - 16 Sept 86 Everest Summer 1986: Roger Marshall Not been on face until 1st Sept. Was with Chileans and used their fixed ropes to North Col, his highest point. Not on Swiss-French N Face permit (probably via Hornbein) which is valid till end of Sept. Ed Webster, his photographer, left, but girl friend still there. Webster also went to N Col. Beghin - 17 Sept 86 Roger Marshall said he would try for 2 weeks via Hornbein, but too much snow for 1 man alone. Alone except girl friend, not even LO or interpreter. French Swiss team left BC 5 Sept. Roger Marshall - 20 Dec 85 N Col-N Face Everest: July-Aug '86 - Marshall will be completely solo on mountain. BC at 21,500 ft on East Rongbuk, acclimatize up to North Col and then when snow conditions are right will make summit push. 1-4 people at BC.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448813
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n col (to 7000m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ruth De Cew F 1950 USA Exp Doctor Boulder, Colorado Nutritionist Details Other expeditions
Kristina Kearney F - USA Member Colorado - Details Other expeditions
Roger Gough Marshall M 1941 Canada Leader Boulder, Colorado Writer Details Other expeditions
Edward Russell (Ed) Webster M 1956 USA Support Climber - Photographer & writer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER86201 AAJ Marshall, Roger - - 61:304 (1987) -
EVER86201 - Webster, Ed Snow in the Kingdom Mountain Imagery, Eldorado Springs, CO - -
EVER86201 MM - - - 111:11 (Sep 1986) -
EVER86201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198730401/Asia-China-Everest-Solo-Attempt - - -