Everest | 1986 S Col-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1986 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Haruyuki Endo. Summit reached on 10th May 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 435
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER86104
Peak ID EVER
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Haruyuki Endo
Sponsor Japan Everest Expedition 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-07
Summit Date 1986-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8600m due to cold winds and no strength left for further attempts
High Point (m) 8600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7985m),xxx(10/05,8600m)
Route Notes C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col High point at below South Summit. Had rest period between C3 and C4. Then left BC on 3 May for summit attack by Endo, Nagao, Okadome, 2 Sherpas and Matsunaga on 4 May. 4 May to C2, 5 May to C3, bad weather and back to C2. 7 May up again from C2 8 May to C3 and C4 on 9 May. Miss Nagano in not good condition and returned to C2 7 May but had climbed to South Col twice before then. 10 May 01:30 hours started from Col: Endo, Matsunaga and Pemba Tsering. At 9:00 hrs reached 8600m. Now very cold and strong wind and had taken too long to reach this point. so turned back. Climb finished. Okadome cannot climb without oxygen and not possible for small team carry up enough for this. Now no strength left in team for more attempts. Found body of Indian below C3 at bottom of Lhotse Face. Did not see Mrs. Schmatz although little snow above Col. Endo made this second Everest climb to make it possible for Miss Nagao to become the 1st woman atop Everest without using oxygen. Tourism - 18 May At South Col on 9 May: leader Endo (no oxygen) Tadanori Matunaga Pemba Tshering and attacked from C4. Left 1:45 am and return Col 9 hours 15 minutes to 8600m. On 10 May abandoned because: 25-50 cm soft snowfall above Col, high winds and exhaustion. All members well.
Accidents Miss Nagao sick in C3 with 'cold' (had reached South Col twice before her illness)
Achievement -
Agency Express
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448682
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruyuki Endo M 1957 Japan Climbing Leader Nagoya, Japan Staff, high-mountain research center Details Other expeditions
Kazuki Isozumi M 1960 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Newspaperman Details Other expeditions
Tadanori Matsunaga M 1952 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Taeko Nagao F 1956 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Nurse (Research Center for High Mountains) Details Other expeditions
Koken Okadome M 1934 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Pilot (JAL) Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER86104 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:233 (1987) -
EVER86104 IWA - - - :269 (1987) -
EVER86104 IWA - - - :54 (1987) -
EVER86104 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723304/Asia-Nepal-Japanese-Everest-Attempt - - -