Everest | 1985 NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte)

A UK expedition to Everest in 1985 via NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte), led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 21st May 1985. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 973
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER85103
Peak ID EVER
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Malcolm Duff
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Switzerland
Approach Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1985-03-20
Summit Date 1985-05-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 62
Total Days 68
Termination Date 1985-05-27
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8170m due to all exhausted, snowfall had required all off mountain and none had strength to go back up
High Point (m) 8170
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 19
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,5300m),ABC(6400m),C1(08/04,6800m),C2(10/04,7090m),C3(05/05,7470m),C4(08/05,7850m),xxx(27/05,8170m)
Route Notes BC at 5300m at glacier C1 at 6800m Bonington's 1st snow hole C2 at 7090m new snow hole on ridge C3 at 2 tents C4 at snow hole very close site of Bonington's 3rd cave High point at 8170m top of 1st. Had fixed route on 2 buttresses above C3 before making this camp, trying to skip this camp. Lot of snow from 28 April with few inches of snow every night there after. Also went to North Col for filming and to prepare route of descent. Helped Basques from fatal accident. Duff and two others at ABC, all in good health and strength, saw ghost for about one hour as he climbed from about 7150m to near this expedition's C3 where he disappeared behind in cluster of rocks. Assumed it was Sandy Allan at the time but later learned he was sick. Could only have been from this expedition but none that high in that area that day - was wearing red suit, a big man going very strongly - was size and strength of Peter Boardman who wore red windsuit when he disappeared in 1982 and Duff felt it was "Peter." A videotape being run again, says Duff. Peter's wife Hilary certain it was Peter and said she'd have to go and tell him to come home now.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448327
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge (uk 1982 spring rte)

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Leader Culross, Fife, Scotland - Details Other expeditions
Nikola (Nick) Kekus M 1957 UK Climber Leeds, W Yorkshire, England Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexander Roderick (Sandy) Allan M 1955 UK Climber Beauly, Highland, Scotland Oil exploration & drillng worker Details Other expeditions
Richard Frank (Rick) Allen M 1954 UK Climber Aberdeen, Scotland Petroleum engineer Details Other expeditions
Bob Barton M 1948 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Bricknell M 1948 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Anthony (Tony) Brindle M 1958 UK Climber Ulverston, Cumbria, England Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Terry Dailey M 1951 UK Support Member - - Details Other expeditions
Kurt Diemberger M 1932 Austria Film Team Salzburg, Austria - Details Other expeditions
Elizabeth (Liz) Duff F 1947 UK BC Manager Culross, Fife, Scotland - Details Other expeditions
Allen Fyffe M 1946 UK Climber Scotland - Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Greig M 1951 UK Support Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Danny Lewis M 1965 UK Film Team - - Details Other expeditions
Andrew Donald (Andy) Nisbet M 1953 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Sarah Squibb F 1963 UK BC Assistant - - Details Other expeditions
Jonathan (Jon) Tinker M 1959 UK Climber London, England - Details Other expeditions
Julie Tullis F 1939 UK Film Team - - Details Other expeditions
Christopher (Chris) Watts M 1957 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Urs Wiget M 1944 Switzerland Climber/Exp Doctor Vissoie, Valais, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER85103 AAJ Kekus, Nikola - - 60:295 (1986) -
EVER85103 AJ Duff, Mal A Dangerous Day - 91:76-77 (1986) -
EVER85103 - Greig, Andrew Kingdoms of Experience Hutchinson, London - G265
EVER85103 - Tullis, Julie Clouds From Both Sides Grafton Books, London - T270
EVER85103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198629500/Asia-China-Mount-Everest-North-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt - - -
EVER85103 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1986_files/AJ%201986%2076-77%20Duff%20Everest.pdf - - -