Everest | 1985 NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte)
A UK expedition to Everest in 1985 via NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte), led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 21st May 1985. 19 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 973 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER85103 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Malcolm Duff |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Austria, Switzerland |
| Approach | Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-03-20 |
| Summit Date | 1985-05-21 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 62 |
| Total Days | 68 |
| Termination Date | 1985-05-27 |
| Termination Reason | 7 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8170m due to all exhausted, snowfall had required all off mountain and none had strength to go back up |
| High Point (m) | 8170 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 19 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/03,5300m),ABC(6400m),C1(08/04,6800m),C2(10/04,7090m),C3(05/05,7470m),C4(08/05,7850m),xxx(27/05,8170m) |
| Route Notes | BC at 5300m at glacier C1 at 6800m Bonington's 1st snow hole C2 at 7090m new snow hole on ridge C3 at 2 tents C4 at snow hole very close site of Bonington's 3rd cave High point at 8170m top of 1st. Had fixed route on 2 buttresses above C3 before making this camp, trying to skip this camp. Lot of snow from 28 April with few inches of snow every night there after. Also went to North Col for filming and to prepare route of descent. Helped Basques from fatal accident. Duff and two others at ABC, all in good health and strength, saw ghost for about one hour as he climbed from about 7150m to near this expedition's C3 where he disappeared behind in cluster of rocks. Assumed it was Sandy Allan at the time but later learned he was sick. Could only have been from this expedition but none that high in that area that day - was wearing red suit, a big man going very strongly - was size and strength of Peter Boardman who wore red windsuit when he disappeared in 1982 and Duff felt it was "Peter." A videotape being run again, says Duff. Peter's wife Hilary certain it was Peter and said she'd have to go and tell him to come home now. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448327 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge (uk 1982 spring rte) |
Members
19 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Malcolm (Mal) Duff | M | 1953 | UK | Leader | Culross, Fife, Scotland | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikola (Nick) Kekus | M | 1957 | UK | Climber | Leeds, W Yorkshire, England | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Roderick (Sandy) Allan | M | 1955 | UK | Climber | Beauly, Highland, Scotland | Oil exploration & drillng worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard Frank (Rick) Allen | M | 1954 | UK | Climber | Aberdeen, Scotland | Petroleum engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bob Barton | M | 1948 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| David (Dave) Bricknell | M | 1948 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Anthony (Tony) Brindle | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | Ulverston, Cumbria, England | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Terry Dailey | M | 1951 | UK | Support Member | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kurt Diemberger | M | 1932 | Austria | Film Team | Salzburg, Austria | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Elizabeth (Liz) Duff | F | 1947 | UK | BC Manager | Culross, Fife, Scotland | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Allen Fyffe | M | 1946 | UK | Climber | Scotland | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew (Andy) Greig | M | 1951 | UK | Support Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Danny Lewis | M | 1965 | UK | Film Team | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Donald (Andy) Nisbet | M | 1953 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sarah Squibb | F | 1963 | UK | BC Assistant | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan (Jon) Tinker | M | 1959 | UK | Climber | London, England | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Julie Tullis | F | 1939 | UK | Film Team | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher (Chris) Watts | M | 1957 | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Urs Wiget | M | 1944 | Switzerland | Climber/Exp Doctor | Vissoie, Valais, Switzerland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER85103 | AAJ | Kekus, Nikola | - | - | 60:295 (1986) | - |
| EVER85103 | AJ | Duff, Mal | A Dangerous Day | - | 91:76-77 (1986) | - |
| EVER85103 | - | Greig, Andrew | Kingdoms of Experience | Hutchinson, London | - | G265 |
| EVER85103 | - | Tullis, Julie | Clouds From Both Sides | Grafton Books, London | - | T270 |
| EVER85103 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198629500/Asia-China-Mount-Everest-North-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt | - | - | - |
| EVER85103 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1986_files/AJ%201986%2076-77%20Duff%20Everest.pdf | - | - | - |