Everest | 1985 Lho La-W Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1985 via Lho La-W Ridge, led by David Saas. Summit reached on 10th May 1985. 24 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 494
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER85101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders David Saas
Sponsor David Saas Spring 1985 Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1985-03-12
Summit Date 1985-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 59
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8600m due to route difficulty
High Point (m) 8600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 21
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/03,5400m),C1(20/03,6100m),C2(02/04,6860m),C3(07/04,7315m),C4(19/04,7800m),C5(05,8300m),xxx(10/05,8600m)
Route Notes BC at usual site C1 at Lho La (tents) C2 on West Shoulder in snow cave C3 on crevasse on Shoulder C4 at start of West Ridge C5 below Yellow Band at Bulgarian camp High point at above Band. Problem at the end was that dumped oxygen bottles at very high point could not provide sufficient supply for top and back. In general loose rock, difficulty of this difficult route. 2 summit bids made and decision taken these were all that were possible because no strength left to mount more pushes. Decision taken after having hoped May 6th but when supplying higher camps realized couldn't mount more than one after May 10th and that are only 2 people. People got knocked down by high winds but no one hurt. No serious frostbites or illness that went to serious lengths. 1985 American Mount Everest West Ridge Expedition Report The Climb Our advance party had already spent several days working to find and fix a route up the 2000 ft of rock that formed the Lho La wall. In a daring and risky maneuver, Jim Bridwell, Andy Politz, and Kevin Swigert ascended a steep avalanche chute and several precariously hanging ice seracs to reach the top of the Lho La wall at 20,000 ft. Once on top, they fixed ropes down a near vertical section of rock that blocked the upper 500 ft of the Lho La wall. Now our efforts turned to reinforcing the route and beginning the time consuming process of moving over 10,000 pounds of gear up the mountain. On March 17 Kevin Swigert and Jay Smith made our first attempt to establish a camp on the Lho La. Although they successfully reached the Lho La and pitched a tent there, the gale force winds blowing out of Tibet wreaked havoc on them. From BC the winds sounded like a never ending freight train roaring out of Tibet. For Jay and Kevin the winds meant a sleepless night as they tried desperately to keep the tent from collapsing or blowing away. Finally, in the cold predawn hours they decided to abandon their percarious position and descend to BC. Their fate was a gentle reminder to all of us of the force Everest could muster against us. Two days later we successfully moved people to the Lho La and began establishing Camp I on the flat white expanse of the Rongbuk Glacier that stretches for miles into the far reaches of Tibet. Camp I soon expanded to include 15 tents complete with underground kitchen and our famous White House. We soon began to probe across the mile of the Rongbuk Glacier that separated us from the steep slopes of Everest Western Shoulder. Our lead climbers carefully found a route across the glacier that avoided the hidden crevasses and located a snow bridge that crossed the bergschrund at the base of the Western Shoulder. Meanwhile, everyone else concentrated on carrying loads to C1 and acclimatizing to the higher elevations. Climbing Everest in not at all glamour, it is mostly routine and exhausting work. Climbing Everest is like building a pyramid. Our team began with 30,000 pounds of gear at Base Camp and ended up with a single tent, 2 sleeping bags, 2 stoves, 6 oxygen bottles, food and miscellaneous equipment at 27,000 ft for two climbers to be in a position to go for the summit. Our climb was a team effort, whether you were going for the summit or fixing meals. We pushed the route up the steep ice slopes of the Western Shoulder, then into a narrow ice gully, across the downsloping rocks of the rock band, and into the snow fields at about 22,000 ft. On March 29, with a Pete Athens in the lead, we discovered the snow-filled entrance to the remnant of the French Winter Expedition's snow cave at 22,500 ft that would become C2 for us. Hard work and the constant chipping out of ice from the walls to melt into cooking water soon enlarged it to handle six people comfortably. We welcomed the protection of the cave against the nearly constant winds blowing across the shoulder. But the protection of the cave also could become dangerous. During the last several weeks of the climb, as snow fell every day, we had several close calls when the entrance would be covered with blowing snow and the sleeping climbers inside would awaken with headaches and sickness from near suffocation. The steep carry from C1 to C2 along our fixed ropes typically took us about six hours up and two hours down, although our Sherpas did it in about half that time. With our usual weather pattern, you would leave C1 in the still warmth of the morning sun, usually stopping to peel off layers of clothing before beginning the steep ice ascent. By noon, however, those same layers were put on again as the afternoon winds, clouds and snow arose. When the weather shifted each day, the temperature plummeted and the winds became a feared enemy. As we continued to ferry loads from BC to C1 and C2, our rotating terms of climbers worked to push the route up the snow and ice above C2 towards C3 and the West Ridge. We soon fixed ropes above C2 to the crest of the northern ridge of the Western Shoulder. Crossing a gentle snow slope, we came to the site of C3 at 23,500 ft. Our notorious C3 was located in a covered blue ice crevasse that could hold 3 small tents. With a six foot ceiling and just one tiny entrance hole. C3 earned its reputation as he coldest place on earth. Above C3 we pushed the route up a 45-degree snow slope for several hundred feet and then traversed across the Western Shoulder to where the 3 mile long West Ridge connects with the Western Shoulder at about 24,000 ft. Stepping onto the Ridge and looking at the summit, still a mile above us, put into perspective the size of Everest. We looked down on almost all of the big peaks we had passed on the way to BC, yet Everest still loomed above. The one and a half mile ridge that stretches from the Western Shoulder to the base of Everest Summit pyramid is one of the longest high altitude climbs in the world. Once we had safely established our three tents at 25,000 ft for C4, we began the task of ferrying gear across this tremendous ridge. Once carry from C3 would take between 8 and 10 hours of slow, plodding, climbing. In the thin air, climbing without oxygen, we measured our progress in terms of reaching the next anchor point on the rope; we lost all perspective of time. Above Camp 3 many people hit "the Wall" - the physical and mental test that took its toll on all of us. Each of us felt some of the effects of the high altitude, including headaches, insomnia, loss of appetite, lethargy, weight loss and slow healing. People hit their wall at different points. Indeed, just 10 members reached an elevation of 25,000 ft or more and on two occasions severe altitude sickness struck climbers who had to be escorted quickly down the mountain. As we rotated groups into C3 and above, the Wall took its effect on our climbers and our logistics planning, causing us as much as 50% attrition between C3 and C4. Although Andy Politz and Pete Athans had reached the site for C4 on April 19th, it us over 2 and 1/2 weeks more to reach C5. In addition to the extreme altitude and technical rock, we began to encounter greater problems with the weather as fresh powder snow fell daily, slowing our progress and sapping what little energy we had left. Despite the increasing odds against us, we slowly pushed ahead, moving supplies and vital oxygen tanks to C4 and pushing the route up the snow field above 4 and into the shattered rock below the Yellow Band. At this point oxygen became the critical supply for further progress. The Summit Bids As our manpower dwindled and the weather worsened, most of our healthy climbers regrouped at C1 during the first days of May and spent long hours in strategy sessions as the reality of our situation forced us to scale back our original plans for several large summit bids. On May 3, with hopes high and cameras clicking, we gave a grand send off from C1 to members of our first summit bid. If all went well, found days later Pete Athens, Robert Anderson, Lhakpa and Ang Danu would stand on the summit. The first team stayed that night in C2 and the next day pushed to C4. At C4 the decision was made that sufficient supplies were in place to support only a two-man summit bid. Robert and Pete would try it alone. On May 5, Robert, Pete, Lhakpa and Ang Danu mad a tremendous carry of materials to the site of C5 - a 30-degree snowfield at about 27,000 ft. After chopping out a narrow platform in the snow and ice, Robert and Pete erected the tiny tent that would protect them from the bitter cold. After two months of hardwork, our team finally had occupied the high camp. Although they had intended to begin climbing from C5 by headlamps at 1:00 am. problems with a stove and Robert's leaky oxygen regulator delayed their departure until 4:00 am - late for a summit bid on such a difficult route. Above C5, Robert and Pete encountered deep powder snow filling the steep gullies leading into the Yellow Band. By mid-morning at an altitude just under 28,000 ft and facing continued problems with Robert's regulator, they called it day, stashed their spare oxygen bottles, and descended, leaving in place fixed ropes over some of the more difficult spots. Although they had not reached the top, Robert and Pete had blazed the way for our second team, C5 was established, the route into the Yellow Band was fixed, and spare oxygen bottles were cached well above C5. Our hopes now rested with the second summit team. The radio call that night was lengthy as Robert and Pete informed our second team of what awaited them. Last minute adjustments in logistics were made. If everything went well, on May 9th our second team would try for the top. Of course, all did not go according to plan. The next day, as the second team moved to C4, two summit climbers were sick and unable to climb above C3, probably because of the suffocating effect suffered the night before, when the entrance to C2 had filled with blowing snow. Attrition had again taken its toll but we still had Jay, Andy, Robert and two Sherpas at C4. Unfortunately, May 8th begain with high winds and driving snow buffeting the entire mountain. Our climbers would have to stay an extra day at 25,000 ft, consuming precious bottles of oxygen. In the midst of the storm, however, Sherpa Fenzo made a miraculous descent to C3 and returned with much needed fuel cannisters to keep our summit hopes alive. May 9th dawned clear and calm. Jay and Robert, with Andy, Fenzo and Ang Danu climbing in support without oxygen, worked their way to C5. The evening radio call confirmed that Jay and Robert, two of our strongest climbers, were poised for the summit. Everyone on the team knew this was our best, and last, chance to reach our ultimated goal. We all wished them the best of luck. At 1:00 am on May 10, climbing with headlamps Robert and Jay left what little warmth the tent provided, steped into the bitter, arctic cold and climbed up the steep rock gully that led into the Yellow Band. Shortly after dawn they reached the first team's high point and began the tedious task of switching to the new oxygen bottles stashed there for four days earlier. Jay succeeded, but Robert could not get his valves to function. Eventually Robert took a half full bottle and continued the climb. Several hours later, at an altitude of approx 28,200 ft they stopped to assess their prospects. Looming ahead was the 150 foot vertical cliff of the Grey Step; at least 6 to 8 hours of slow, difficult climbing remained to reach the summit. Unfortunately, Robert had less than 1000 pounds of pressure left in his oxygen bottle - already not enough to reach the summit, much less return. As Jay recounted: "We stood there for at least half an hour, just getting colder, and always knowing what our decision had to be." Without oxygen, a descent on the snow covered, downsloping rocks would be dangerous; a forced bivouac overnight would be inviting severe frostbite or worse. Past expeditions had proven the danger of our route. Both the Yugoslavs and Bulgarians had lost climbers during the treacherous descent from the summit. Jay and Robert weighed the risk and wisely descended. No one would challenge their decision. We all have considered the "what ifs," but one thing is clear - Everest '85 was not a failure. We had mounted a valiant attempt, but we were exhausted. Our effective manpower at C4 and above was less than half of our team and Sherpas. The deteriorating weather and the prolonged stay at altitude were taking their toll. It was best to leave before we overextended ourselves and left someone on Everest permanently. On May 15th, with very mixed emotions, we dismantled BC and began the trek towards KTm and civilization. Our ultimate goal had eluded us but we had climbed higher than most of the other teams that had attempted the West Ridge direct. And, we had done so with no fatalities or serious injuries (not even frostbite). We walked out of BC with all our friends. We left with the experience of a lifetime and friendship that hopefully will last throughout our lives. Few people have the opportunity to challenge themselves day after day to their physical and mental limits; Everest had given us that opportunity for over two months.
Accidents Climbers knocked down by high winds but no one hurt; no serious frostbites or illnesses
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448316
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge

Members

24 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert Mads Anderson M 1958 USA Climber Auckland, New Zealand Writer Details Other expeditions
Peter George (Pete) Athans M 1957 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Heidi Rose Benson F 1957 USA BC Manager Tacoma, Washington Administrator Details Other expeditions
James D. (Jim) Bridwell M 1944 USA Climbing Leader Olympic Valley, California Photographer Details Other expeditions
Kim David Carpenter M 1956 USA Climber Redondo Beach, California Woodworker & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Randall Grandstaff M 1957 USA Climber Las Vegas, Nevada Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rodney Allison Korich M 1947 USA Logistics Supervisor Boulder, Colorado Travel consultant Details Other expeditions
Scott Lankford M 1957 USA Climber South Lake Tahoe, California Teacher, English (Stanford University) & climbing instructor Details Other expeditions
Daniel Larson M 1954 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
George (Kennedy) McLeod M 1927 UK Climber/BC Manager Denver, Colorado Contractor, building Details Other expeditions
James (Jim) McMillian M 1951 USA Climber Highlands Ranch, Colorado Firefighter & paramedic Details Other expeditions
John Stephen Meyer M 1953 USA Journalist Lakewood, Colorado Journalist Details Other expeditions
Brian O'Malley M 1954 USA Climber Englewood, Colorado Firefighter & paramedic Details Other expeditions
John B. Pelner M 1950 USA Climber/Exp Doctor Denver, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Andrew James (Andy) Politz M 1959 USA Climber Ashford, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David Eugene (Dave) Saas M 1937 USA Leader Loveland, Colorado Airline pilot & real estate salesman Details Other expeditions
Gregory (Greg) Sapp M 1955 USA Climber Phoenix, Arizona Salesman, real estate Details Other expeditions
Jordan Kramer (Jay) Smith M 1953 USA Climber Tahoe Paradise, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
R. Kevin Swigert M 1954 USA Climber Ketchum, Idaho Cross-country ski coach Details Other expeditions
Edward Russell (Ed) Webster M 1956 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide & photojournalist Details Other expeditions
Fletcher Ridgley Wilson M 1961 USA Climber Olympic Valley, California Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Ang Danu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Phinzo Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER85101 AAJ Saas, David - - 60:226 (1986) -
EVER85101 - Webster, Ed Snow in the Kingdom Mountain Imagery, Eldorado Springs, CO - -
EVER85101 SMT Jenkins, Tom Everest West Ridge Direct Summit Magazine 30-6:2-31 (Dec 1984) -
EVER85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622600/Asia-Nepal-Everest-West-Ridge-Attempt - - -
EVER85101 MM Webster, Ed Just Another Average Day in the Life of a Rock'N'Roll Star - 110:24-27 (Jul 1986) -