Everest | 1984 Lho La-W Ridge (not to Hornbein Couloir)

A France expedition to Everest in 1984 via Lho La-W Ridge (not to Hornbein Couloir), led by Eric Dossin. Summit reached on 16th January 1985. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 496
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER84402
Peak ID EVER
Year 1984
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge (not to Hornbein Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Eric Dossin
Sponsor Croisiere Blanche Citroen/Everest 1984
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium, Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-11-23
Summit Date 1985-01-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 54
Total Days 66
Termination Date 1985-01-28
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/11,5400m),C1(05/12,6100m),C2(10/12,6800m),C3(13/12,7100m),xxx(16,22/01,7500m)
Route Notes Fixed 2 km ropes above C3 to C4 site. Until 12 Dec fantastically good weather but after 12 Dec wind started. From Xmas much snowfall as well as wind. Wants to return to W Ridge route next winter with small team, acclimatize in Oct-Nov in Khumbu and begin Everest climb as early as allowed. Planned to use oxygen from C5 at about 8000m. Sungdare started climbing 19 Jan with this expedition Pilon and Rebreyend had to go home on 3 Jan for jobs. Grassi home sick and left with Pilon and Rebreyend. Machado got frostbitten feet and Vagne went home with him. Callande not a climber, but went to C3 and stayed till end. Francou left BC 5 Jan for his work. Ratel left BC 22 Jan. Paul very sick (altitude) and left BC 24 Nov. Dossin is making plans to return to Everest's West Ridge next winter. Abiding by their life-saving instinct, took the decision to turn back. Having to abandon all hope of successfully climbing the last stage, a steep rocky ascent, they had no choice but to dismantle their C4 which had been pitched at 7500m (24,600 ft). Weather conditions were extremely unfavorable (constant strong wind and snow blizzards). Under these conditions any fresh attempt would have turned in "suicide." Between KTM 5 or 6 days from 29 Jan. Korean Everest expedition - 19 Jan 85 Only 3 French climbers left: Dossin, Chamoux and 23-year-old [Fine?] plus 6 Sherpas left. Italians said W Ridge dangerous, so Nam stayed 8 days at BC and asked permit to climb with French and climbed to 7000m on French route. Then got letter from Oh saying come down (Ministry refused permit because Koreans abandoned attempt). In one month French did not make C4 from C3. They did not bring high altitude food from France, but bought all food in Namche. Also only 3 climbing members left (plus young doctor and leader's wife and cameraman's wife who not climbing). Cameraman went back to French with frostbite and older doctor with him. Banskota, Tourism - 4 Jan 85 LO report of 3 Jan: 29 Dec Eric Dossin and Vincent Fine making route for C4 about 200m above C3 (7200m = C3). Other members returned to C1 and stayed there after ferrying loads to C2 and C3 from C1. Weather bad since 30 Dec and started snowing.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448201
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge (not to hornbein couloir)

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edith Joncheres Callede F 1960 France Climber Noisy-le-Grand, Seine-St-Denis, France Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Olivier Callande M 1959 France Exp Doctor Noisy-le-Grand, Seine-St-Denis, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Benoit Chamoux M 1961 France Climber La Roche-sur-Foron, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Eric Dossin M 1953 France Leader St. Mande, Val-de-Marne, France Educator Details Other expeditions
Vincent Fine M 1961 France Climber Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Catherine Freychet F 1962 France Climber Avon, Seine-et-Marne, France Student, education Details Other expeditions
Bernard Francou M 1948 France Climber St. Martin d'Uriage, Isere, France Researcher, geology Details Other expeditions
Gian-Carlo Grassi M 1946 Italy Climber Condove, Torino, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Richard List M 1953 France Climber Paris, France Professional photographer Details Other expeditions
Thierry Machado M 1959 France Climber Avon, Seine-et-Marne, France Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Jean Pilon M 1942 France Climber Venon, Eure, France Teacher, school Details Other expeditions
Guillaume Ratel M 1961 France Climber Hem, Nord, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Alain Rebreyend M 1937 France Climber Venon, Eure, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marie Roesch F 1955 France BC Manager St. Mande, Val-de-Marne, France Journalist Details Other expeditions
Alain Vagne M 1946 France Climber Romans, Drome, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Paul Van de Calseyde M 1943 Belgium C1 Manager Falmagne, Belgium Salesman, insurance Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER84402 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:224-225 (1986) -
EVER84402 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:265 (1985) -
EVER84402 - Chamoux, Benoit Le Vertige de L'Infini Albin Michel, Paris - C125
EVER84402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622404/Asia-Nepal-Everest-West-Ridge-Winter-Attempt-1985-5 - - -
EVER84402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198526502/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Winter-Attempts - - -