Everest | 1984 N Face (Great Couloir)

A Australia expedition to Everest in 1984 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Geoffrey Bartram. Summit reached on 3rd October 1984. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 510
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER84301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Geoffrey Bartram
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 64th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-08-02
Summit Date 1984-10-03
Summit Time 2015
Summit Days 62
Total Days 65
Termination Date 1984-10-06
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Changtse illegally (by two members)?
Campsites BC(02/08,5200m),C1(21/08,5800m),C2(14/09,6900m),C3(01/10,7500m),C4(02/10,8150m),Smt(03/10)
Route Notes Route Australians took was good one for oxygen-less team since was direct route up Great Couloir. Japanese in 1980 went up Hornbein Couloir. Australian's last camp C4 was at about same place at Messner's last campsite at c8200m. Saw no oxygen bottle or anything else on summit which reached just at dust; footprints could have been from last May, eroded by wind which had blown away summer monsoons snow. Was very helpful having the 2 Nepalese, Lobsang Tenzing and Narayan Shrestha, along. They looked after C1 which was climbing base, knew the foods members liked, and Tenzing was fluent in Tibetan and could get on well with yak drivers (Chinese LO knew little Tibetan and was arrogant towards yak drivers). Before climb visited Lho La and could see 3 camps at top of Khumbu icefall.
Accidents Avalanche destroyed first attempt at C2 at 6200m; Bartram slight cerebral edema; Henderson badly frostbitten hands
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448096
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Geoffrey Keith Bartram M 1950 Australia Leader Queanbeyan, NSW, Australia - Details Other expeditions
Lincoln Ross Hall M 1955 Australia Climber Canberra, ACT, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrew Henderson M 1955 Australia Climber Mosman, NSW, Australia Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Gregory (Greg) Mortimer M 1952 Australia Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Geologist Details Other expeditions
Timothy John Macartney-Snape M 1956 Australia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Michael Charles (Mike) Dillon M 1945 Australia Film Team Strathfield, NSW, Australia Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Jim Duff M 1947 UK Film Team/Exp Doctor Kendal, Cumbria, England Physiologist Details Other expeditions
Colin Chalmers Monteath M 1948 UK Film Team Christchurch, New Zealand New Zealand Public Service, Antarctic Division Details Other expeditions
Howard Whelan M - USA Film Team Sydney, NSW, Australia - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER84301 AAJ Bartram, Geoffrey - - 59:338 (1985) -
EVER84301 AJ Bonington, Chris - - 90:214-215 (1985) -
EVER84301 - Hall, Lincoln White Limbo Mountaineers, Seattle - H40
EVER84301 MM - - - 102:12 (Mar 1985) -
EVER84301 - Hall, Lincoln First Ascent, The Life and Climbs of Greg Mortimer Simon & Schuster, Roseville, NSW, Australia - -
EVER84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198533800/Asia-China-Everest-via-the-Great-Couloir - - -
EVER84301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1985_files/AJ%201985%20213-215%20Bonington%20China.pdf - - -