Everest | 1983 S Col-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1983 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi. Summit reached on 16th December 1983. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 504
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83401
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuyuki Takahashi
Sponsor Kazuyuki Takahashi Winter 1983 Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 58th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-11-20
Summit Date 1983-12-16
Summit Time 0800
Summit Days 26
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-833-01)
Campsites BC(20/11,5300m),C1(01/12,6100m),C2(03/12,6400m),C3(08/12,7400m),C4(13/12,8000m),Smt(16/12)
Route Notes All 4 summiters started 2:30 am from C4 with new type battery in headlamps giving bright lights. Started so early to be able return to C4 same day. Strong wind at col and at summit from S Summit. Ozaki saw tripod when snow near 2 oxygen bottles probably Russian. Above Col on face saw new body at about 8200m. Not Japanese by colour of clothing which was yellow quarter blue trousers and yellow/beige - huge body, think its a man but lying flat on stomach. Did not see Mrs Schmatz. In C2 and C3 tents and some equipment already there from Lhotse ascent in Oct 1983 and few fixed ropes between C2-C3 there too. 14 Dec 1 member and 2 Sherpas tried to put in 300m fixed ropes on SE Ridge but too strong wind changed plan to make C5. 15 Dec was to be summit day for successful team, but too much wind and spent day in C4 170 knots/hr. Yamada left on top small cardboard from British Catholic priest via British Embassy Tokyo with message about world peace. From summit could be seen by N Face team. Takahashi - 23 Dec 83 "Can't help" not being able to meet wife at summit [Michiko Takahashi from north side team]. Idea was difficult. Takahashi to C4 only. Exped doctor did not permit him to go higher because of heart - oldest Japanese climber to reach height of Lhotse summit. Ok if he does 2 or 3 high summits in same season, but not over longer period.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Express
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447758
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toru Asaji M 1947 Japan Exp Doctor Maruko, Nagano, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Hanawa M 1947 Japan BC Manager Tokyo, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kunio Hata M 1947 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Mariko Kaji F 1949 Japan Asst BC Manager Tokyo, Japan Secretary Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Miyazaki M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Salesman, furniture Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Murakami M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Plumber Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan Writer (mountaineering) Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Suzuki M 1953 Japan Climber Takasaki, Gunma, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kazuyuki Takahashi M 1943 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climbing Leader Numata, Gunma, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83401 AAJ - - - 58:241 (1984) -
EVER83401 JAC Takahashi, Kazuyuki Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 - 79:6-9 (1984) -
EVER83401 JAC Takahashi, Kazuyuki Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 - 79:19-26 (1984) -
EVER83401 IWA - - - 105:33 (1984) -
EVER83401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424101/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Winter-Ascent - - -