Everest | 1983 S Col-SE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Everest in 1983 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi. Summit reached on 16th December 1983. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 504 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER83401 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 4 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kazuyuki Takahashi |
| Sponsor | Kazuyuki Takahashi Winter 1983 Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 58th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-11-20 |
| Summit Date | 1983-12-16 |
| Summit Time | 0800 |
| Summit Days | 26 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 9 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-833-01) |
| Campsites | BC(20/11,5300m),C1(01/12,6100m),C2(03/12,6400m),C3(08/12,7400m),C4(13/12,8000m),Smt(16/12) |
| Route Notes | All 4 summiters started 2:30 am from C4 with new type battery in headlamps giving bright lights. Started so early to be able return to C4 same day. Strong wind at col and at summit from S Summit. Ozaki saw tripod when snow near 2 oxygen bottles probably Russian. Above Col on face saw new body at about 8200m. Not Japanese by colour of clothing which was yellow quarter blue trousers and yellow/beige - huge body, think its a man but lying flat on stomach. Did not see Mrs Schmatz. In C2 and C3 tents and some equipment already there from Lhotse ascent in Oct 1983 and few fixed ropes between C2-C3 there too. 14 Dec 1 member and 2 Sherpas tried to put in 300m fixed ropes on SE Ridge but too strong wind changed plan to make C5. 15 Dec was to be summit day for successful team, but too much wind and spent day in C4 170 knots/hr. Yamada left on top small cardboard from British Catholic priest via British Embassy Tokyo with message about world peace. From summit could be seen by N Face team. Takahashi - 23 Dec 83 "Can't help" not being able to meet wife at summit [Michiko Takahashi from north side team]. Idea was difficult. Takahashi to C4 only. Exped doctor did not permit him to go higher because of heart - oldest Japanese climber to reach height of Lhotse summit. Ok if he does 2 or 3 high summits in same season, but not over longer period. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Express |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447758 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toru Asaji | M | 1947 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Maruko, Nagano, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsutomu Hanawa | M | 1947 | Japan | BC Manager | Tokyo, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kunio Hata | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mariko Kaji | F | 1949 | Japan | Asst BC Manager | Tokyo, Japan | Secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsutomu Miyazaki | M | 1947 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Salesman, furniture | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazunari Murakami | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Plumber | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Ozaki | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Kameyama, Mie, Japan | Writer (mountaineering) | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Suzuki | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Takasaki, Gunma, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuyuki Takahashi | M | 1943 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Noboru Yamada | M | 1950 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Numata, Gunma, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER83401 | AAJ | - | - | - | 58:241 (1984) | - |
| EVER83401 | JAC | Takahashi, Kazuyuki | Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 | - | 79:6-9 (1984) | - |
| EVER83401 | JAC | Takahashi, Kazuyuki | Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 | - | 79:19-26 (1984) | - |
| EVER83401 | IWA | - | - | - | 105:33 (1984) | - |
| EVER83401 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424101/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Winter-Ascent | - | - | - |