Everest | 1983 S Col-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1983 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Hiroshi Yoshino. Summit reached on 8th October 1983. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 507
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83306
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroshi Yoshino
Sponsor Yeti Dojin Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 56th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-10
Summit Date 1983-10-08
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/09,5300m),C1(19/09,6100m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7500m),C4(07/10,7980m),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes BC at usual site. Route can be steep and requires much care in snow. Yoshino seen 9 Oct and his body found - fell. Kamuro not seen after 8 Oct and body not found. Takahashi & Yamada - 24 Oct 83 Japanese Lhotse Expedition Yeti Dojin Everest expedition member Sawagami used oxygen in C2 on his descent because he was in "no good condition." Sure about Sawagami because they helped him and he used Lhotse expedition oxygen. Endo biv site very dangerous because very cold and very windy. Coming down next day on his legs but on laboriously. Ang Tshering went up met at 8300m and helped him down. Yashima and Kamura last year biv at 8350m on K2 and very lucky, no wind and in good condition, but lost same fingertips from frostbite. On return to C2 by Endo and may be Sawagami used oxygen on Everest. Endo - 21 Oct 83 C4 at South Col. Highest 3:00 am on 8 Oct all 4 climbing members left C4 met 2 members and 1 Sherpa of Sangaku Doshikai (SD) team at 8100m at 4:00 am: Endo started first from 8100m followed by SD team Kawamura and Suzuki, Pasang Temba Sherpa, next Kamuro, Yoshino and Sawagami. All 7, next 3 Americans at 8500m and Americans went on up. Sawagami stopped going up when at 8800m because was exhausted and reached C4 same day. Pasang Temba also reached 8600m and then down because exhausted Americans saw him falling at 8600m and were last to see him alive. Body not found but seen to be falling down SW Face. Endo at S Summit at 2:00 pm waiting for Yoshino and Kamuro and at that time 2 members went ahead to summit. Yoshino and Kamuro joined him at 2:30 pm and all 3 continued up and all 3 met Americans at Hillary Step. After SD team reached summit, 10 minutes later Endo on top at 4:30 pm and Yoshino and Kamuro 4:50 pm on top. Endo waited at top and then little below while they went to top. SD two went down first after Endo: they had met on top. Then Yoshino and Kamuro of Yeti Dogin descended. Endo met Yoshino and Kamuro about 50m below summit and 3 down. At South Summit because dark when Endo arrived at about 6:00 pm alone and decided to biv below South Summit and back towards main summit he had seen Yoshino and Kamuro at Hillary Step when almost dark. Expected Yoshino and Kamuro to join him - bivouacked at 6:30 pm. Thinks Yoshino and Kamuro bivouacked just below Hillary Step Endo slept for 8 hours, woke up at 6:00 hours. 9 Oct - 6:00 am Endo began decent from biv site. Saw Yoshino at 6:10 am fastening boots just below Hillary Step and waited near S Summit for Yoshino for 1 hour and then again started down too exhausted to go up in search. Reached C4 that day at noon. 10 Oct Endo at 10:00 am left C4 and reached C2. Thought he would die. 11 Oct found Yoshino body by sirdar at 6300m. Must have fallen 2000m down SW Face. Body spotted by crows being overhead. Body identified by SD and brought to C2 (identified by having toes) where put into crevasse. Kamuro's body not found, might be at bottom of SW Face. SD summiters biv at 8300m on 8 Oct - one Ok, 1 frostbite 9 Oct Konishi and 1 Sherpa tried for summit but no success. Endo, Dr and Sawagami arrived KTM today. SD all arrive today. Takahashi and Yamada also came today from Lhotse. Mrs Schmatz and Kato and Kobayashi not seen. Endo Ok, no frostbite.
Accidents Two fatalities in descent from summit
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447689
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruyuki Endo M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Hironobu Kamuro M 1951 Japan Climber Oguni, Kumamoto, Japan Buddhist monk Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Yoshino M 1950 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Salesman, mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Noboru Sawagami M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Ukai M 1950 Japan Exp Doctor Kemigawa, Chiba, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83306 AAJ - - - 58:240-241 (1984) -
EVER83306 - Nagao, Saburo Fate on Everest Yami-To-Kei, Tokyo - jN12
EVER83306 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424000/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -