Everest | 1983 S Pillar-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1983 via S Pillar-SE Ridge, led by Haruichi Kawamura. Summit reached on 8th October 1983. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 506
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83305
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Pillar-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Haruichi Kawamura
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 55th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-05
Summit Date 1983-10-08
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/09,5300m),C1(13/09,6200m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7950m),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes BC at usual site. 3 Americans from E Face first met at 8500m as both parties going up. Americans on oxygen went faster and again met bottom of Hillary Step as they were coming down from 2:00 pm summit (2 hours) very slowly (no oxygen but fixing rope at Step). Bivouacked at 8400m at 7:00 pm with small biv tent and fuel or stove and pan for heating snow. 9 Oct Konishi and Ang Nima left C4 for top, but reached S Summit at 4:00 pm very late and very tired. Bivouacked at 8500m at 6:00 pm also with biv tent, etc left by 1st summit party. Tripod and Mrs Schmatz's body not seen as expected, but not with bad ice and no good snow. Would take very long time to scale SW Face and could not start 20 Aug as planned because of delays so changed with only 1 month climbing time really available to S Pillar route (left side of Poles route) to avoid avalanche. Still C3 very dangerous place from avalanche. Pasang Temba Sherpa of summit party turned back alone. Slipped at very easy snow field but very tired. Americans saw him fall down Nepalese side but body not found. Takahashi & Yamada - 24 Oct 1983 (Lhotse expedition leader & climbing leader) Japanese Everest Sangaku Doshikai team actually climbed same route as American autumn 1981 expedition to left of Geneva Spur, right of South Pillar. Not on Polish Pillar route to S Summit, but joined SE Ridge just above Col as did Americans in 1981 autumn. Climbed entirely on snow, no pillar rock. Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Oct 1983 LO report: sent to Namche by 2nd group members. Returned regarding missing Sherpa: at about 7950m one of his bags found and traces of his slippage seen by a Sherpa of 2nd group, so Pasang Pemba is declared dead by falling in the snow. All others are well and team scheduled reach KTM by 23 Oct. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 11 Oct 1983 Leader and 1 member of Sangaku Doshikai expedition [summited]. 1) Haruichi Kawamura, born 1947 Dec 2) Shomi Suzuki, born 1953, mountain advisor, Tokyo reached top 8 Oct at 16300 hours without oxygen (stayed 10 minutes on top) Had left C4 with Pasang Pemba, 27, but he could not go up all the way and turned back and is missing. Further attempt by other members "going on." Details of missing Sherpa and next attempt will be sent later.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447689
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s pillar-se ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruichi Kawamura M 1947 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Designer, mountaineering clothing and equipment Details Other expeditions
Satoshi Kimoto M 1956 Japan Climber Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan Unemployed Details Other expeditions
Masatsugu Konishi M 1938 Japan Climber Hidaka, Saitama, Japan Dept manager (mountaineering equipt & clothing company) Details Other expeditions
Koji Okano M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Shomi Suzuki M 1953 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pasang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83305 AAJ - - - 58:240-241 (1984) -
EVER83305 JAC Kawamura, Haruichi First Oxygenless Ascent of Everest by Japanese - 79:4-6 (1984) -
EVER83305 MM - - - 96:10 (Mar 1984) -
EVER83305 JAC Kawamura, Haruichi First Oxygenless Ascent of Everest by Japanese - 79:10-18 (1984) -
EVER83305 IWA - - - 105:198-199 (1984) -
EVER83305 IWA - - - 105:35 (1984) -
EVER83305 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424000/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -