Everest | 1983 E Face

A USA expedition to Everest in 1983 via E Face, led by James Morrissey. Summit reached on 8th October 1983. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1652
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83304
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders James Morrissey
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 54th,57th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-08-26
Summit Date 1983-10-08
Summit Time 1445
Summit Days 43
Total Days 52
Termination Date 1983-10-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/08,5240m),C1(01/09,5335m),C2(20/09,6250m),C3(25/09,6700m),C4(01/10,7160m),C5(07/10,8000m),Smt(08-09/10)
Route Notes "Desperately" deep snow (knee deep) with crust from C6 to SSE Ridge (which reached at 26,500 ft) left C6 at 4:00 am, reached ridge about 10:30 am; snow on ridge much better but still easy to make a mistep. "Take my hat off" to Hillary on difficult and exposed ground and you feel a long long way from home." Reached top at 2:45 pm together. On 9th George to top at 10:30 am from 4:00 am departure and other 2 about 2:30 pm from 4:30 am departure. Most difficult part: rock and ice ridge and series of couloirs up the face but lower overhanging rock the worst. Winch essentially didn't work; took 3 rockets to fire out rope and 2 rockets didn't work. But [Pemba Temba] Sherpa with Japanese Everest team slipped just behind Reichardt and fell to his death and Lowe found slip marks and ice marks and camera of Japanese who fell. American Everest East Face Japanese met 3 Americans at 8500m at 9:00 am. They going up and reached summit at 3:00 pm: Endo saw footsteps. Endo was first of Japanese to reach summit and Americans were ahead of him. At Hillary Step he met Americans and they coming down and they said had been on top; were using oxygen because they said much snow. Endo and Americans shook hands. Americans looked strong because using oxygen. Americans reached SE Ridge at 8500m from high camp at 8300m on East Face. On 9 Oct, next day Endo met 3 more Americans at 8600m when they were going up; doesn't know whether they had success. Ed Hillary - 20 Oct 1983 East Face definitely a very challenging route and if upper slopes in bad snow conditions then I'd say a very dangerous route. If they got up that route, I'd be full of admiration for them.
Accidents None except some illness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447689
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) e face

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jack Alustizn M - USA Member Stockholm, California Restauranteur and chef Details Other expeditions
John Michael Boyle M 1935 USA Climber San Francisco, California Expedition engineer Details Other expeditions
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Climber Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Christopher M. (Kris) Kopczynski M 1948 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Building contractor Details Other expeditions
George Henry Lowe M 1944 USA Climber Aurora, Colorado Physicist Details Other expeditions
Kim A. Momb M 1956 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Construction worker Details Other expeditions
James Dell (Jim) Morrissey M 1936 USA Leader Stockton, California Cardio-thoracic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Daniel Allen (Dan) Reid M 1941 USA Climber Walnut Creek, California Cardio-thoracic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey Craig Tabin M 1956 USA Climber Boston, Massachusetts Medical student (Harvard University) Details Other expeditions
Stanley Carl Tobin M 1953 USA Climber College, Alaska Member of the Polish Kangchenjunga Expedition Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mike) Weis M 1950 USA Member California Carpenter & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Louis French (Lou) Reichardt M 1942 USA Climber San Francisco, California Professor of neurobiology Details Other expeditions
Carlos Paltenghe Rockhold Buhler M 1954 USA Climber Bellingham, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jay L. Cassell M 1948 USA Climber Ketchum, Idaho - Details Other expeditions
Andrew Carson Harvard M 1949 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
David Malcolm Cheesmond M 1952 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Engineer Details Other expeditions
David Kemp Coombs M 1951 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83304 AAJ Morrissey, James D. Kangshung Face of Everest - 58:1-7 (1984) -
EVER83304 - Tabin, Geoff Blind Corners ICS Books, Merville, IN - T295
EVER83304 CAJ Cheesmond, David Mt. Everest Kangshung Face - 68:67-68 (1985) -
EVER83304 NGS Morrissey, James Conquest of the Summit National Geographic Magazine 166-1:77-89 (July 1984) -
EVER83304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198400100/Kangshung-Face-of-Everest - - -