Everest | 1983 Lho La-W Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1983 via Lho La-W Ridge, led by James Sano. Summit reached on 14th October 1983. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 505
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83303
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders James Sano
Sponsor James Sano Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-08-22
Summit Date 1983-10-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 53
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8535m due to high winds
High Point (m) 8535
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 19
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 20
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/08,5365),C1(27/08,6035m,C2(06/09,6800m),C3(10/09,4160m),C4(16/09,7530m),C5(02/10,8200m),xxx(14/10,8535m)
Route Notes BC at usual site. Highest point reached was very nearly top of yellow band. Had climbed hard bit of band and it had started to ease of in clear weather, but wind too strong on 14 Oct (blew ropes upwards in Couloir). By 14 Oct only Macquaries and Bibler not affected by exhaustion or frostbite and wind continued strong for 4-5 days by which time all down to Lho La and no "cough" to go back up. W Ridge is tough and most technical part of the route is above 27,000 ft besides getting onto Lho La. "This is a hard way to try to climb Everest." Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 1983 American Everest from LO: 16 Oct because high winds all expedition activity abandoned. 23 Oct schedule to leave BC for KTM. All are well. 14 Oct 3 people left C5 5:30 am but high wind could go only (200-300 ft) above C5 and return to C5. 15 Oct expedition studied with condition. 16 Oct decided to abandon. Moss arrived 18 Oct 28,000 ft by Whitehouse on 14 Oct (new American women's altitude record) 4th attempt abandoned when teams resources helping 3 members to safety. Report from Sano dated 1 Sept 1983 to Ministry of Tourism Weather conditions have been generally good. Generally clear mornings and cloudy afternoons, lowest temperatures -5 degrees C, highest +20 degrees, wind gusts of 5 knots. Health of all members excellent.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447695
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eve Anderson F 1938 USA Photographer Hawaii Independantly wealthy Details Other expeditions
Todd Douglas Bibler M 1952 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Tent designer Details Other expeditions
Susan Buren F 1951 USA Exp Doctor San Francisco, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Douglas Dalquist M 1948 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Claude Fiddler M 1956 USA Winch Operator at C1 Bear Valley, California Ski patrol member Details Other expeditions
Susan Ann (Sue) Giller F 1946 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Saleswoman, mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Reynold Gregory (Renny) Jackson M 1952 USA Climber Salt Lake City, Utah National park ranger & ski patrol member Details Other expeditions
Sharon (Shari) Kearney F 1952 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Teacher, climbing and outdoor pursuits at school Details Other expeditions
Rodney Allison Korich M 1947 USA BC Manager Jamestown, Colorado Travel consultant Details Other expeditions
Anne Macquarie F 1953 USA Climber Berkeley, California Student, landscape architecture Details Other expeditions
Charles (Chas) Macquarie M 1950 UK Climbing Leader Berkeley, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Alex) Moad M 1952 USA Climber Newport Beach, California Graduate student, biology Details Other expeditions
Michael Moss M 1955 USA Member San Francisco, California Reporter (Cox Newspapers) Details Other expeditions
John Krenz Reinhart, Jr. M 1951 USA Member Sierre Madre, California Carpenter & film-maker Details Other expeditions
Eric Reynolds M 1952 USA Climber Grand Junction, Colorado Manufacturer, mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
James D. (Jim) Sano M 1954 USA Leader Yosemite National Park, California Park ranger Details Other expeditions
Lucylle (Lucy) Smith F 1951 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Instructor (National Outdoor Leadership School) Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Sandy) Stewart M 1952 USA Climber Golden, Colorado Photographer, commercial Details Other expeditions
Ann (Annie) Whitehouse F 1956 USA Climber Albuquerque, New Mexico Nurse Details Other expeditions
Pertemba Sherpa M 1948 Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83303 AAJ Macquarie, Anne - - 58:239-240 (1984) -
EVER83303 MM - - - 96:10 (Mar 1984) -
EVER83303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423900/Asia-Nepal-Everest-West-Ridge-Attempt - - -