Everest | 1983 Lho La-W Ridge
A USA expedition to Everest in 1983 via Lho La-W Ridge, led by James Sano. Summit reached on 14th October 1983. 21 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 505 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER83303 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Lho La-W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | James Sano |
| Sponsor | James Sano Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-08-22 |
| Summit Date | 1983-10-14 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 53 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8535m due to high winds |
| High Point (m) | 8535 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 19 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 20 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(22/08,5365),C1(27/08,6035m,C2(06/09,6800m),C3(10/09,4160m),C4(16/09,7530m),C5(02/10,8200m),xxx(14/10,8535m) |
| Route Notes | BC at usual site. Highest point reached was very nearly top of yellow band. Had climbed hard bit of band and it had started to ease of in clear weather, but wind too strong on 14 Oct (blew ropes upwards in Couloir). By 14 Oct only Macquaries and Bibler not affected by exhaustion or frostbite and wind continued strong for 4-5 days by which time all down to Lho La and no "cough" to go back up. W Ridge is tough and most technical part of the route is above 27,000 ft besides getting onto Lho La. "This is a hard way to try to climb Everest." Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 1983 American Everest from LO: 16 Oct because high winds all expedition activity abandoned. 23 Oct schedule to leave BC for KTM. All are well. 14 Oct 3 people left C5 5:30 am but high wind could go only (200-300 ft) above C5 and return to C5. 15 Oct expedition studied with condition. 16 Oct decided to abandon. Moss arrived 18 Oct 28,000 ft by Whitehouse on 14 Oct (new American women's altitude record) 4th attempt abandoned when teams resources helping 3 members to safety. Report from Sano dated 1 Sept 1983 to Ministry of Tourism Weather conditions have been generally good. Generally clear mornings and cloudy afternoons, lowest temperatures -5 degrees C, highest +20 degrees, wind gusts of 5 knots. Health of all members excellent. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447695 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | lho la-w ridge |
Members
21 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eve Anderson | F | 1938 | USA | Photographer | Hawaii | Independantly wealthy | Details Other expeditions |
| Todd Douglas Bibler | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Tent designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Susan Buren | F | 1951 | USA | Exp Doctor | San Francisco, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Douglas Dalquist | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Lander, Wyoming | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Claude Fiddler | M | 1956 | USA | Winch Operator at C1 | Bear Valley, California | Ski patrol member | Details Other expeditions |
| Susan Ann (Sue) Giller | F | 1946 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Saleswoman, mountaineering equipment shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Reynold Gregory (Renny) Jackson | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Salt Lake City, Utah | National park ranger & ski patrol member | Details Other expeditions |
| Sharon (Shari) Kearney | F | 1952 | USA | Climber | Lander, Wyoming | Teacher, climbing and outdoor pursuits at school | Details Other expeditions |
| Rodney Allison Korich | M | 1947 | USA | BC Manager | Jamestown, Colorado | Travel consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Anne Macquarie | F | 1953 | USA | Climber | Berkeley, California | Student, landscape architecture | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles (Chas) Macquarie | M | 1950 | UK | Climbing Leader | Berkeley, California | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander (Alex) Moad | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Newport Beach, California | Graduate student, biology | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Moss | M | 1955 | USA | Member | San Francisco, California | Reporter (Cox Newspapers) | Details Other expeditions |
| John Krenz Reinhart, Jr. | M | 1951 | USA | Member | Sierre Madre, California | Carpenter & film-maker | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Reynolds | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Grand Junction, Colorado | Manufacturer, mountaineering equipment | Details Other expeditions |
| James D. (Jim) Sano | M | 1954 | USA | Leader | Yosemite National Park, California | Park ranger | Details Other expeditions |
| Lucylle (Lucy) Smith | F | 1951 | USA | Climber | Lander, Wyoming | Instructor (National Outdoor Leadership School) | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander (Sandy) Stewart | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Golden, Colorado | Photographer, commercial | Details Other expeditions |
| Ann (Annie) Whitehouse | F | 1956 | USA | Climber | Albuquerque, New Mexico | Nurse | Details Other expeditions |
| Pertemba Sherpa | M | 1948 | Nepal | Sirdar | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Jangbu Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER83303 | AAJ | Macquarie, Anne | - | - | 58:239-240 (1984) | - |
| EVER83303 | MM | - | - | - | 96:10 (Mar 1984) | - |
| EVER83303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423900/Asia-Nepal-Everest-West-Ridge-Attempt | - | - | - |