Everest | 1983 N Face (Great Couloir)

A Switzerland expedition to Everest in 1983 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Romolo Nottaris. Summit reached on 16th September 1983. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1511
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Romolo Nottaris
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-08-12
Summit Date 1983-09-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 35
Total Days 61
Termination Date 1983-10-12
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to deep snow, very strong climbers left expedition, Nottaris' broken foot
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/08,5100m),C1(19/08,5500m),C2(25/08,6000m),C3(03/09,6500m),C4(16/09,7400m),xxx(16/09,7400m)
Route Notes BC at usual site at end of road, 10-12 km beyond Rongbuk monastery on Dzakar Chu (Schneider map). Very, very much snow; very strong climber Tiziano Zuend left expedition; Nottaris broke foot so two of best cllimbers out of action. Originally planned Japanese 1980 direct to Hornbein Couloir, "very nice" direct route, but too much avalanching in Hornbein so went left towards Great (Norton) Couloir. Both routes easy technically on gentle slopes. In Oct wanted to join French on W Ridge but still too much snow. Nottaris - 22 Aug 1982 Original plan: Japanese 1980 route direct to Hornbein, very nice, direct route, but too much avalanche in Hornbein, so went to left towards Great (Norton) couloir; same route as US 1982. 16 Sept Nottaris C3 to C4 and broke foot after descent to C2 (that night twisted ankle breaking foot bones). 17 Sept Nottaris on hands and knees down to C1 and by yak to BC. 3 men in C3, all others in BC. 6 days much snow fall and unable to move. C3 safe place but above and below much danger avalanches from Changtse. 23 Sept near in C3 descend 3 Oct one member of party of 3 reached C4 again in waist-deep snow and 4 Oct down again. Discussed with Yannick Seigneur, French West Ridge expedition leader, joining forces on West Ridge, which was safer from avalanches. 4-12 Oct 3 Swiss members in C2 (Swiss and French C2's in same place) waiting for snow conditions to permit going up, but neither Swiss nor French went up. 12 Oct - all to BC. 14 Oct - left BC expedition finished. To C4 on 16 Sept: Romolo Nottaris Gianluigi Quarti Ivano Regazzoni Jean Troillet Aldo Verzaroli In C3 and C2 Jean Troillet Gianluigi Quarti Aldo Verzaroli Nottaris leader About 10 members Left Switzerland mid-Aug - arrive BC end Aug End of Oct finish North Face (try to make new route) Jean Troillet, Makalu 1982 is a member Nottaris (Swiss Makalu) - 5 Nov 1982 Nottaris will be on Everest NE Ridge in early autumn 1983 and then come to Ama Dablam joining expedition already on Ama Dablam in autumn. Expedition Romolo Nottaris: Ice gully, North Face, highest point reached, 7400m abandoned due to bad weather. On Oct 12 Nottaris broke his leg on 7200m while descending. Running away from falling rock, stepped into small gap. Nottaris climbed 6700m peak about 3 Sept for acclimatization in solo trip one day BC->summit->BC. (40-50 degrees not very difficult) = point 6720m on Schneider Khumbu map, ESE of BC.
Accidents Nottaris broke foot Sep 16 night at C2 and could climb no more on this expedition
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447667
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Romolo Nottaris M 1946 Switzerland Leader Lugano, Ticino, Switzerland Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Gianluigi Quarti M - Switzerland Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ivano Regazzoni M 1953 Switzerland Climber Balerna, Ticino, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Jean Fernand Troillet M 1948 Switzerland Climber Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aldo Verzaroli M 1955 Switzerland Climber Bellinzona, Ticino, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Tiziano Zuend M 1958 Switzerland Climber Massagno, Ticino, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Fulvio Mariani M 1958 Switzerland Climber Sonvico, Ticino, Switzerland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Senaldi M 1951 Italy Exp Doctor Arcegno, Ticino, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Athos Balestra M 1952 Switzerland Climber Locarno, Ticino, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Claudio Righeschi M 1946 Switzerland Climber Pregassona, Ticino, Switzerland Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Piergiorgio Baroni M - Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Elizabetta Stoffel F - Switzerland Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83301 AAJ - - - 58:311 (1984) -
EVER83301 - Baroni, Piergiorgio Finestra Sull'Everest Arti Grafiche Bernasconi, Agno, Italy - B125
EVER83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198431102/Asia-China-Mount-Everest - - -