Everest | 1983 W Ridge direct from N (to 7925m)

A USA expedition to Everest in 1983 via W Ridge direct from N (to 7925m), led by Robert Craig. Summit reached on 7th May 1983. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1650
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83103
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 W Ridge direct from N (to 7925m)
Route 2 W Ridge (Hornbein Couloir) from N (to 8000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Robert Craig
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1983-03-21
Summit Date 1983-05-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 47
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1983-05-15
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to 1 member ill & snow
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03),C1,C2,C3,C4,C5(26/04,7650m),xxx(07/05,8000m)
Route Notes Got to 7900m on both Yugoslavian ridge and Hornbein Couloir then Roskelley got very ill and had to take 2 others (Momb and Houston) to get him down. Then making progress on Hornbein Couloir when mountain got plastered with snow. Snow on 8th May and snow stayed. Schmitz and Rowell tried to do fast push for summit but failed. Quit 15th May. Realized how much work Sherpas do on an expedition. Himalayan Letter newsletter Feb 81: An American expedition attempted Everest via the west ridge from Tibet, without oxygen or porters. Robert Craig was the leader and Galen Rowell the climbing leader. They had nine lead climbers and eight support climbers, all of whom were equally involved in load carrying to the high camps. Up to 7300m they followed an entirely new route on the north rib of the west shoulder, both easier and safer than the 1979 Yugoslav route via the Lho La. This had 2150m of fixed rope up 45-degree to 70-degree slopes of hard snow with occasional ice. On May 3 John Roskelley and Kim Momb prepared the route to 7925m on the Yugoslav route. The next morning Roskelley down to the next camp where Dr. Robin Houston and others cooperated to get him down without a major rescue. Despite this another summit bid was made within a few days. Efforts were switched to the Hornbein Couloir, where they reached 8000m but they were stopped by the first monsoon storm on May 8. Despite further efforts they had to give up as the monsoon closed in.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447535
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge direct from n (to 7925m)

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christopher S. Wren M - USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Robert W. Craig M 1924 USA Leader Keystone, Colorado - Details Other expeditions
Galen Avery Rowell M 1940 USA Climbing Leader Berkeley, California Photographer & writer Details Other expeditions
Michael Goodrich (Mike) Graber M 1952 USA Climber Mammoth Lakes, California - Details Other expeditions
Steven M. (Steve) McKinney M 1953 USA Climber Olympic Valley, California - Details Other expeditions
Robin MacDonald Houston M 1948 USA Exp Doctor Seattle, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions
Harold Arthur Knutson M 1940 USA Climber Oakland, California Geologist Details Other expeditions
John Martinek M - USA Climber San Francisco, California - Details Other expeditions
Kim A. Momb M 1956 USA Climber Spokane, Washington - Details Other expeditions
Jon A. Reveal M - USA Climber Dillon, Colorado - Details Other expeditions
Gordon Benner M - USA Climber/Exp Doctor ? - - Details Other expeditions
David Carman M - USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Donald G. Castle M - USA Climber Ketchum, Idaho - Details Other expeditions
Dallas Clark M - USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
John Fenton Charles Roskelley M 1948 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Photojournalist Details Other expeditions
Kim Schmitz M 1946 USA Climber Oakland, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John Tackle M - USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83103 AAJ Rowell, Galen A. An Attempt of Everest's West Ridge from Tibet - 58:8-14 (1984) -
EVER83103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198400800/An-Attempt-on-Everests-West-Ridge-from-Tibet - - -