Everest | 1983 NE Ridge
A Chile expedition to Everest in 1983 via NE Ridge, led by Gaston Oyarzun. Summit reached on 19th May 1983. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1651 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER83101 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Chile |
| Leaders | Gaston Oyarzun |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-03-24 |
| Summit Date | 1983-05-19 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 56 |
| Total Days | 61 |
| Termination Date | 1983-05-24 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8350 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 500 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Illegal attempt of Changtse (CTSE-831-01) |
| Campsites | BC(24/03,5150m),C1(29/03,6100m),C2(30/03,6500m),C4(27/04,7007m),C5(30/04,7600m),C6(17/05,8000m),C7(18/05,8300m),xxx(19/05,8350m) |
| Route Notes | The 12-man Chilean party, led by Gaston Oyarzun, failed in the siege on the NE Ridge in spring. The party was the second Himalayan expedition organized by Chilean Mtng Federation after the successful Gasherbrum II party in 1979. Oyarzun led that party and reached the top by himself. BC (5150m) on Rongbuk Glacier was made on March 23 and via East Rongbuk Glacier, C1 (5500m), C2 (6100m) and C3 (6500m) were made. Ropes were fixed on North Col for 500m, and C4 (7007m) on the col was made. Much snow and bad weather disturbed the progress. C5 (7600m) and C6 (8000m), were made along the classic route on NE Ridge and the final C7 (8300m) was made May 17. Claudio Lucero, Ivan Vigouroux, Dagoberto Pena and leader Oyarzun intended to push from C7 next day, but they were forced to be in the tent for three more nights. They used up the oxygen, and Oyarzun suffered pulmonary edema and Lucero took over the leadership. On 21st they descended 100m and found the remain of Chinese 1975 party's tent. A cylinder there saved their lives. They narrowly returned to BC without accident. Galen Rowell, by phone in California - 26 June 83 Chilians were on Everest via N Col route in Spring 1983 (Rowell was on W Ridge from N at same time and they met). Reached 26,000+ ft (7900m) with little equipment and in a storm which they had to wait out. All survived but one [Oyarzun] got ill and retreat was only possibility. |
| Accidents | Oyarzun was taken ill with acute cerebral edema; he saw 'black points and macabre insects' |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447547 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gaston Oyarzun | M | - | Chile | Leader | Santiago, Chile | Professional photographer & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Claudio Lucero Martinez | M | 1933 | Chile | Vice Leader | Santiago, Chile | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Jorge Bassa | M | - | Chile | Exp Doctor | Santiago, Chile | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Gino Casassa | M | 1958 | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Engineering student | Details Other expeditions |
| Nelson Munoz | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Engineer & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Luis Garcia Riquelme | M | 1944 | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Alpine rescuer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivan Vigouroux | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Teacher of physical education & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Juan Pardo | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Sociology student | Details Other expeditions |
| Nelson Rivera | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Eduardo Parvex | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Teacher of physical education | Details Other expeditions |
| Dagoberto Pena | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Psychology student | Details Other expeditions |
| Claudio Galvez Santibanez | M | - | Chile | Climber | Santiago, Chile | Student of physical education & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER83101 | AAJ | Oyarzun, Gastion | - | - | 58:309-310 (1984) | - |
| EVER83101 | - | Oyarzun, Gaston | Everest: De Los Andes al Himalaya | SEL Publicaciones, Santiago, Chile | - | O104 |
| EVER83101 | AAJ | Casassa, Gino | - | - | 58:310 (1984) | - |
| EVER83101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198431001/Asia-China-Changtse-Illegal-Ascent-to-Northeast-Summit | - | - | - |
| EVER83101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198430902/Asia-China-Everest-Attempt | - | - | - |