Everest | 1983 NE Ridge

A Chile expedition to Everest in 1983 via NE Ridge, led by Gaston Oyarzun. Summit reached on 19th May 1983. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1651
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Chile
Leaders Gaston Oyarzun
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1983-03-24
Summit Date 1983-05-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 56
Total Days 61
Termination Date 1983-05-24
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 7
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Illegal attempt of Changtse (CTSE-831-01)
Campsites BC(24/03,5150m),C1(29/03,6100m),C2(30/03,6500m),C4(27/04,7007m),C5(30/04,7600m),C6(17/05,8000m),C7(18/05,8300m),xxx(19/05,8350m)
Route Notes The 12-man Chilean party, led by Gaston Oyarzun, failed in the siege on the NE Ridge in spring. The party was the second Himalayan expedition organized by Chilean Mtng Federation after the successful Gasherbrum II party in 1979. Oyarzun led that party and reached the top by himself. BC (5150m) on Rongbuk Glacier was made on March 23 and via East Rongbuk Glacier, C1 (5500m), C2 (6100m) and C3 (6500m) were made. Ropes were fixed on North Col for 500m, and C4 (7007m) on the col was made. Much snow and bad weather disturbed the progress. C5 (7600m) and C6 (8000m), were made along the classic route on NE Ridge and the final C7 (8300m) was made May 17. Claudio Lucero, Ivan Vigouroux, Dagoberto Pena and leader Oyarzun intended to push from C7 next day, but they were forced to be in the tent for three more nights. They used up the oxygen, and Oyarzun suffered pulmonary edema and Lucero took over the leadership. On 21st they descended 100m and found the remain of Chinese 1975 party's tent. A cylinder there saved their lives. They narrowly returned to BC without accident. Galen Rowell, by phone in California - 26 June 83 Chilians were on Everest via N Col route in Spring 1983 (Rowell was on W Ridge from N at same time and they met). Reached 26,000+ ft (7900m) with little equipment and in a storm which they had to wait out. All survived but one [Oyarzun] got ill and retreat was only possibility.
Accidents Oyarzun was taken ill with acute cerebral edema; he saw 'black points and macabre insects'
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447547
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gaston Oyarzun M - Chile Leader Santiago, Chile Professional photographer & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Claudio Lucero Martinez M 1933 Chile Vice Leader Santiago, Chile Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Jorge Bassa M - Chile Exp Doctor Santiago, Chile Physician Details Other expeditions
Gino Casassa M 1958 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Nelson Munoz M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Engineer & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Luis Garcia Riquelme M 1944 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Alpine rescuer Details Other expeditions
Ivan Vigouroux M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Teacher of physical education & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Juan Pardo M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Sociology student Details Other expeditions
Nelson Rivera M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Technician Details Other expeditions
Eduardo Parvex M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Teacher of physical education Details Other expeditions
Dagoberto Pena M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Psychology student Details Other expeditions
Claudio Galvez Santibanez M - Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Student of physical education & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83101 AAJ Oyarzun, Gastion - - 58:309-310 (1984) -
EVER83101 - Oyarzun, Gaston Everest: De Los Andes al Himalaya SEL Publicaciones, Santiago, Chile - O104
EVER83101 AAJ Casassa, Gino - - 58:310 (1984) -
EVER83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198431001/Asia-China-Changtse-Illegal-Ascent-to-Northeast-Summit - - -
EVER83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198430902/Asia-China-Everest-Attempt - - -