Everest | 1982 SW Face (to 6500m)

A France expedition to Everest in 1982 via SW Face (to 6500m), led by Michel Metzger. Summit reached on 20th December 1982. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 508
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER82401
Peak ID EVER
Year 1982
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (to 6500m)
Route 2 W Ridge from S (not attempted)
Route 3 N Col-NE Ridge from Lho La (to 7600m) (illegal)
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Michel Metzger
Sponsor Michel Metzger Winter Everest 1982
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium, Italy, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-11-21
Summit Date 1982-12-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1982-12-31
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to winds
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/11,5350m),C1(24/11,6150m),xxx(6500m); 2ndC1(08/12,6000m),C2(14/12,7000m),xxx(20/12,7600m)
Route Notes The expedition made no attempt to climb the West Ridge. After giving up an attempt to climb the SW Face, they crossed into Tibet and tried the North Col-North Ridge route. The highest point reached on the unauthorized northern route. 27th Nov Batard and Audoubert to site of C2 at 6500m in Cwm, saw SW Face all black and reported to BC face had no snow and icefall in very dangerous condition. Expedition asked for permit for W Ridge which they got. Meanwhile established new C1 at Lho La. Had no intention to attempt W Ridge because strong winds in Dec; intended to go to N Col. Sherpas refused W Ridge climb (too cold for so-so Sherpas) and were told to carry loads to pully and sleep at BC, so members were alone at Lho La and beyond. Highest point reached on N Ridge, 7600m, half an hour beyond where snow gave way to mixed snow and rock in afternoon 20 Dec. 22nd Batard and Audoubert reached 7520m and 23rd to same place. All to BC 24th for Xmas. 27th from Lho La to rescue climb by 4 members but same day Bourgeois became sick from altitude sickness, disappeared between turning back and reaching C1. After 3 days search, 4 returned to C2 but wind too strong and cleared camp. 4 members without sleeping time again. Metzger - 1 Oct 88 Did not attempt West Ridge. Went from Lho La and from this only 5 hours to North Col (with good acclimatization). Had 1 tent and 1 cave at North Col and stayed there 1 week. Reached 7600m on N Ridge and then saw a tent ahead but very windy on ridge. Metzger slept 4-5 nights at North Col. 7600m reached by Metzger 7500m reached Batard and Audoubert both times stopped by wind. Metzger - 14 Jan 83 For Bourgeois to descend to C1 way was not difficult and when Jean said preferred return to C1 at 6000m because had headache - were 4: Ghilini, De Blanchard, Metzger and Bourgeois going to C2 at 7000m. Metzger agreed he should go alone for 1 hours descent. Bourgeois at 10:00 am [on Dec 27] left the other 3 at about 6200-6300m. Metzger watched him descend for 1/2 hour well and so not worried. Reached C2 about 12:30 and had lunch. At 2:00 pm called C1 and friend Pierre Steiner who had come up from BC said Bourgeois not there at C1. So 3 descended immediately to point last seen. Steiner camp up from C1 to place where can see his crampons tracks on hard snow and reached all crevasses there and looked down the side. That night stayed at C1. No search in moonlight because impossible. Again searched on 31 Dec same area despite bad wind making impossible stand and same next day. 2 Jan went to C2 and brought down all gear to C1. BC about 5450m. All down finally 4 Jan evening. "We thought it was possible to go to Tibet but without food and sleeping bag, we thought he was dead." Kato - when got down from summit was worst for wind and at C1 was -33 degrees C in evening. I think he was higher and when you slip from this place its not the same thing." I think they are finished. Regarding our expedition at first thought to continue climb but then with Bourgeois gone and wind blowing open blanket of C1 icehole every one thought Bourgeois coming back and could not sleep and gave up. 7700m highest point, before Xmas about 21 Dec. Bourgeois - 14 Jan 83 Said goodbye knowing had cerebral edema because wanted his friends to continue to summit. Metzger had offered to go with him. Headache got worse and worse, had nausea lost balance and fell down. On Nepal side would have been dead but on Tibetan side fell less than 100m distance. Not hurt by fall but shocked (maybe lost consciousness briefly) and having edema. Only 2 solutions: 1) go up to C1 where was oxygen but too exhausted to go up: 2) go lower and lower in direction of Rongbuk glacier, which did, hoping to find monastery where could rest and get food. Spent night amongst rocks on glacier. Next afternoon reached ruined monastery. Now not possible to go back though health improved but balance not good. Left monastery and walked 2nd day and 2nd night. In am of 1 Jan reached village at dawn. There Tibetans gave tea and Tsampa. "It was a good New Year for this morning." Continued down same day alone and at night slept in little house in little village where Tibetans gave food (tsampa and food). Morning of 5th day 3rd Jan, reached first town Shigar on East-West road and became chief guest of ag. who gave bed and food. In town they telephoned to Shigatse and next day 4 Jan sent in Japanese to Shigatse where met Chinese officials and shared room with 2 Chinese and was free to walk around town and Tibetan who spoke perfect English as interpreter. PSB phoned Lhasa and Peking.
Accidents Bourgeois altitude sickness and near-fatal crevasse fatal
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447396
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face (to 6500m)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Louis Audoubert M 1935 France Climber Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marc Marie Bernard Batard M 1951 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Bourgeois M 1938 Belgium Climber Furfooz, Belgium Ethnographer Details Other expeditions
Alain De Blanchaud M 1954 France Exp Doctor Vaucresson, Hauts-de-Seine, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Renalto (Rene) Ghilini M 1957 Italy Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yves Laulan M 1934 France Member Croissy-sur-Seine, Yvelines, France Economist Details Other expeditions
Michel Mabilon M 1948 France Climber Bourg de Peage, Drome, France Manager of sports shop Details Other expeditions
Michel Metzger M 1949 France Leader Paris, France Dentist Details Other expeditions
Michel Piola M 1958 Switzerland Climber Croix-de-Rozon, Geneva, Switzerland Alpine guide & Master of Sports Details Other expeditions
Emanuel Schmutz M 1955 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Alain Steiner M 1960 Switzerland Climber Lausanne, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pasang Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Ghat, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER82401 AAJ Audoubert, Louis - - 57:228-229 (1983) -
EVER82401 MM - - - 90:9 (Mar 1983) -
EVER82401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322802/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Winter-Attempt - - -