Everest | 1982 SW Face rib-W Ridge

A USSR expedition to Everest in 1982 via SW Face rib-W Ridge, led by Evgeny Tamm. Summit reached on 4th May 1982. 28 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1700
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER82101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1982
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face rib-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USSR
Leaders Evgeny Tamm
Sponsor First Soviet Mountaineering Expedition to Sagarmatha
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 44th-48th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-03-26
Summit Date 1982-05-04
Summit Time 1435
Summit Days 39
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1982-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 27
Summit Members 11
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/03,5300m),C1(22/03,6500m),C2(01/04,7350m),C3(10/04,7850m),C4(20/04,8250m),C5(03/05,8500m),Smt(04-05,08-09/05)
Route Notes In Ktm to finalize arrangements re imports, approach march, etc. Had planned to attempt Everest [from Tibet] but no real expedition because of events in Tibet at that time. An advance group of 3 were there on recce to Rongbuk Glacier with Chinese. Philmonov: 1952 Datchnolian Everest expedition did not exist; never heard of this name; please help us with this disinformation. This 1982 Everest expedition is first Soviet expedition to Everest and to Himalayas. Plan to establish BC 20th March in open part of Khumbu Glacier in usual place at foot of icefall. 26 members, 16 to walk on route never before used; little to left of Bonington route: SW Face to W Ridge at 8500m and thence to summit. Ridge is broader and will climb a little to right of ridge itself. 5 camps above BC. C5 at 8400-8500m just before ridge. 3 summit teams of 4 members each. Hope all 12 will reach summit; have had in part of 2 years in Soviet Union up to 7500m. Use oxygen: all camps will have supply; use at each stage will be decided at the time. So far Soviet climbers have never used oxygen. Sherpas: 9 high altitude Sherpas including Pemba Norbu as sirdar. No women member climbers; this is 1st Soviet expedition so decided to avoid. Highest sumit ever reached by Soviet climbers in 1957 in prep for 1958 Everest 7800m Kongur in Chinese with oxygen. 75-80% equipment will be Soviet and rest usual European equipment. Oxygen equipment will be Soviet especially developed for this expedition. Chosen route: think it one of most difficult routes on everest. Route is logical and shortest and most convienient to W Ridge. Most dangerous part is beginning of face, not in couloir where rock falls came. Chose Everest as 1st Himalayan expedition because it is Everest; said not come to Everest in 1980 because too inconvenient in Moscow Olympics year. We have no other equipment besides what shown in customs declaration. Tamm expects to go no higher than 6500m camp at foot of face. Tamm arrived KTM 27-28 Feb and last of his team's members came 10th March. Soviet Everest Total 27 Soviets on team including BC-only people. 5 went with baggage via Kirantichap 7th March. 7 flew to Lukla 8th March - 15 including Tamm flew to Lukla. Nearly 12 tons baggage. Permission for Soviet aircraft to come to KTM with the baggage was refused by HMG; doesn't know reason. Last of members arrive KTM 10th Mar and leave Lukla 13th March. Main group BC 20th complete nearly 5 weeks climbing route. SW Face still, no change , 15 Sherpas above BC and 4 BC staff. Some facts on Soviet Sagarmatha Expedition - 1982 1) Dr. Evgeny Tamm, Head of the Expedition 2) Dr. Anatoly Ovchinnikov, Chief Coach First Persons to Reach the summit Eduard Myslovsky, 44, a lecturer at the Maching Building Institute in Moscow, and Vladimir Balyberdin, 32, an engineer from Leningrad, reached the top on May 4, 1982. On April 26, these mountaineers left the base camp to set the new route. It took them four days to reach the fourth camp and three days to the fifth camp. They stretched ten ropes each 45 metres long. They worked even during night fall, quite often late in the night to prepare the way to the summit for themselves and other groups of mountain climbers. Scaling at Night On the night of May 4, 1982 two more climbers Sergei Bershov, 35, house painter and student of an evening institute, and Mikhail Turkevich, 28, senior instructor of the mountaineering club "Donbass," scaled the Mt. Sagarmatha. Third Successful Attempt On 5th May afternoon Valentin Ivanov, 41, department chief of the designing bureau, High temperature Institute, and Sergei Efimov reached the summit. Fourth Ascent On May 8, 1982, V. S. Khrischaty, 31, engineer-geologist, and Kazbek Valiev, 30, senior engineer, ascended the peak. Fifth and Final Successful Attempt On May 9th 1982 Valery Khomutov, 40, research worker, Yuri Golodov, senior researcher, and Vladimir Puchkov reached the Sagarmatha summit. Steepness The Soviet mountaineers scaled Sagarmatha on the route with steepness from 40 to 60 degrees. It was difficult to find the place to drive a hook into a jut of vertical rock. Rugged South-Western Slope and Hillary's comment The Soviet mountaineers set a new route for the summit over the rugged south-western slope that was regarded actually insurmountable until now. At a meeting with Soviet climbers in KTM before their departure to the base camp Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to scale Sagarmatha, said that the opening of this new route will be a new step in high altitude alpine climbing. Some other facts The distance from the first intermediate camp (6500m above sea level) to the last and fifth one from where the groups assaulted the summit, is 2700 meters. The average age of the ascenders is 35, Mikhail Turkevich, 28 being the youngest. The clothes of the Soviet team were made especially for climbing Mt. Sagarmatha. The members wore down suits and anoraks and kapron trousers over them. Such material is wind-resistant, but at the same time, it allows perspiration to evaporate. They also wore silk or woollen gloves, double shoes and wool-lined boots.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447166
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face rib-w ridge

Members

28 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Sergeevich Balyberdin M 1949 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Senior engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Igorevich Bershov M 1947 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR House painter Details Other expeditions
Sergei Geogrievich Chepachev M - USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Engineer-geologist, Kazakh Department of Geology Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny M 1938 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Deputy chief, Departmant of International Mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Sergei Borisovich Efimov M 1944 USSR Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia, USSR Instructor (Sverdlovsk) Details Other expeditions
Yuri Fedorovich Golodov M - USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Senior researcher, Fish-breeding Research Institute Details Other expeditions
Akai Vakhtangovich Hergiani M - USSR Support Tbilisi, Georgia, USSR Schoolteacher of physical education Details Other expeditions
Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski M 1940 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Coach, sports committee Details Other expeditions
Valentin Andreevich Ivanov M 1941 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Department chief, Designing Bureau Details Other expeditions
Valeri Vasipevich Khomutov M - USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Department chief (Moscow Radio Research Institute) Details Other expeditions
Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati M 1951 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Engineer and geologist Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Ivanovich Kovalenko M - USSR Film Team Ukraine, USSR Cameraman of Lennauchfilm Studio, Leningrad Details Other expeditions
Yuri Viacheslavovich Kononov M - USSR Support Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Senior researcher, Minerals, Geochemistry & Physics Institute Details Other expeditions
Alexei Vadimovich Moskaltsov M - USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Senior engineer, Machine Design Institute, Ukraine SSR Details Other expeditions
Eduard Vikentevich Myslovsky M 1937 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Senior researcher, State Machine Building Institute Details Other expeditions
Vyacheslav Petrovich Onischenko M - USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Physician, 1st Dispensary for Sportsmen Details Other expeditions
Svet Petrovich Orlovsky M - USSR Support Moscow, USSR Lecturer, 2nd Moscow Medical Institute Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Geogrievich Ovchinnikov M - USSR Trainer Moscow, USSR Professor, Moscow high technical college named after Bauman Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Nikolaevich Puchkov M - USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Mechanic, plant named after M. I. Kalinin Details Other expeditions
Evgeny Igorevich Tamm M - USSR Leader Moscow, USSR Deputy Chief, Physics Institute, USSR Acadamy of Sciences Details Other expeditions
Leonid Andreevich Troshchinenko M 1945 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Senior researcher, Lenin Electrotechnical Institute Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailovich Turkevich M 1953 USSR Climber Donetsk, Ukraine, USSR Senior instructor, Mountaineering club 'Donbass' Details Other expeditions
Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev M 1952 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Senior engineer, seismology institute, Acadamy of Sciences Details Other expeditions
Valentin Vitalevich Vendelovsky M - USSR Support Ukraine, USSR Producer of Lennauchfilm studio, Leningrad Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Aleksandrovich Voskobinikov M 1939 USSR Support Moscow, USSR Engineer, Research Institute of food Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Boris Timofeevich Romanov M - USSR Trainer Moscow, USSR - Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Geogrievich Shopin M 1949 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Mechanic Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER82101 AAJ USSR Sports Committee - - 57:225-227 (1983) -
EVER82101 - Rost, Jurij Everest 82 Olympia, Prqgue - R356
EVER82101 - Kononov, Y. U. Probeda nad Everest (Victory Over Everest) Zdolovya, Kiev, USSR - K289
EVER82101 - Meschtschaninow, Dmitri Zum Dritten Pol F. A. Brockhaus, Leipzig, E Germany - M329
EVER82101 MM - - - 85:11 (May 1982) -
EVER82101 MM - - - 86:11 (Jul 1982) -
EVER82101 IM Rost, Yuri At the Top of the World - 12:125-132 (1983) -
EVER82101 - Zakharov, Pavel Everest '82 Fizkultura & Sport, Moscow - Z35
EVER82101 IM Tamm, Yevgeni Soviet Team Charts a New Route on Everest - 10:16-17 (Autumn 1982) -
EVER82101 DAV - - - 108:168 (1984) -
EVER82101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322502/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-New-Route-on-Southwest-Face - - -