Everest | 1981 E Face
A USA expedition to Everest in 1981 via E Face, led by Richard Blum. Summit reached on 4th October 1981. 19 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1800 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER81303 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | E Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Richard Blum |
| Sponsor | American Everest Expedition of 1981 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Austria, New Zealand |
| Approach | Lhasa->Karta Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-08-28 |
| Summit Date | 1981-10-04 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 37 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6750m due to continuous snow |
| High Point (m) | 6750 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2000 |
| Total Members | 19 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/08,5180m),C1(5485m),C2(5790m),C3(5915m),C4(6400m),xxx(6750m) |
| Route Notes | Scott Macbeth - 13 Nov 81 Everest East Face Decision to come off was made 6 or 7 Oct by Reichardt. Roskelley, McCubbrey and Macbeth went away about 23-24 Sept, left mountain entirely. C1 Snow camp - 18,000 feet C2 Pinsetter - 19,000 feet C3 Raven's Roost - 19,400 feet C4 Helmet Camp - 21,000-21,500 feet made about 20 Sept Yosemite-style climbing at 5 times elevation of Yosemite Valley, 65 degree-70 degree avalanches - at least 8000-9000 feet fixed rope. 6 Tibetan porters BC -> ABC for early part of time, then no other helpers. Several storms meant complete lack of consolidation of snow higher up so not sure wouldn't be slab avalanches and no where to hide above Helmet Camp if big slab avalanche came down and huge avalanche did come down to route of route 22 Sept and convinced Roskelley whole face completely unsafe, but others didn't agree led by Andy Harvard. Lowe had set up Helmet Camp with Macbeth. Above Helmet Camp, Reichardt, Lowe, Reid and Giller explored a bit but no higher camp established. Blum's Everest Expedition AMREE members in KTM 4-6 Aug 1981 said: Blum team leave US about 16 Aug, fly to Lhasa, reached BC within about a week. Kennedy dropped out as member because of danger on East Face; definitely will climb East Face. Reichardt is still climbing leader. Talked with him not long before AMREE left USA. Scott Macbeth - 9 Dec 80 Leave SFO early Aug BC at 17,500 ft about 7 Sept up Kharta Valley's end Dump just before rock buttress 5 hours from fixed camps up face Route up East Face to SE Ridge between Col and Hillary Step. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446953 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e face |
Members
19 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Richard Charles Blum | M | 1935 | USA | Leader | San Francisco, California | Investment banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Louis French (Lou) Reichardt | M | 1942 | USA | Climbing Leader | - | Professor of physiology at the University of California | Details Other expeditions |
| John Fenton Charles Roskelley | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Spokane, Washington | Photojournalist | Details Other expeditions |
| James Dell (Jim) Morrissey | M | 1936 | USA | Exp Doctor | Stockton, California | Cardio-thoracic surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| George Henry Lowe | M | 1944 | USA | Climber | Aurora, Colorado | Physicist | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher Alan G. (Chris) Jones | M | - | USA | Climber | - | Author of 'Climbing in North America' | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Carson Harvard | M | 1949 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric S. Perlman | M | 1950 | USA | Climber | San Francisco, California | Author | Details Other expeditions |
| J. Bruce McCubbrey | M | - | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott MacBeth | M | - | USA | Climber | - | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| David Finlay Breashears | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Newton, Massachusetts | Film-maker | Details Other expeditions |
| Gary Henry Bocarde | M | 1945 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kurt Diemberger | M | 1932 | Austria | Climber | Salzburg, Austria | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Susan Ann (Sue) Giller | F | 1946 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Alpine & skiing instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Edmund Percival Hillary | M | 1919 | New Zealand | Member | Auckland, New Zealand | Apiarist & alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Kim A. Momb | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Spokane, Washington | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Allen (Dan) Reid | M | 1941 | USA | Climber | Walnut Creek, California | Cardio-thoracic surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Geoffrey Craig Tabin | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Boston, Massachusetts | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikael Reynolds | M | - | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
9 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER81303 | AAJ | Tabin, Geoffrey | The Kangshung Face of Everest | - | 56:101-108 (1982) | - |
| EVER81303 | AAJ | Harvard, Andrew | - | - | 55:307 (1981) | - |
| EVER81303 | - | Tabin, Geoff | Blind Corners | ICS Books, Merville, IN | - | T295 |
| EVER81303 | MM | - | - | - | 83:9 (Jan 1982) | - |
| EVER81303 | DAV | Diemberger, Kurt | Mount Everest-die Letzte Wand | - | 107:115-125 (1982-83) | - |
| EVER81303 | NGS | Harvard, Andrew | The Forgotten Face of Everest | National Geographic Magazine | 166-1:70-77 (July 1984) | - |
| EVER81303 | - | Hillary, Edmund & Hillary, Peter | Two Generations | Hodder & Stoughton, London | - | H322 |
| EVER81303 | - | Hillary, Edmund & Hillary, Peter | Ascent | Doubleday, New York | - | H322 |
| EVER81303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198210100/The-Kangshung-Face-of-Everest | - | - | - |