Everest | 1981 E Face

A USA expedition to Everest in 1981 via E Face, led by Richard Blum. Summit reached on 4th October 1981. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1800
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER81303
Peak ID EVER
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Richard Blum
Sponsor American Everest Expedition of 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, New Zealand
Approach Lhasa->Karta Valley
Basecamp Date 1981-08-28
Summit Date 1981-10-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6750m due to continuous snow
High Point (m) 6750
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 19
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/08,5180m),C1(5485m),C2(5790m),C3(5915m),C4(6400m),xxx(6750m)
Route Notes Scott Macbeth - 13 Nov 81 Everest East Face Decision to come off was made 6 or 7 Oct by Reichardt. Roskelley, McCubbrey and Macbeth went away about 23-24 Sept, left mountain entirely. C1 Snow camp - 18,000 feet C2 Pinsetter - 19,000 feet C3 Raven's Roost - 19,400 feet C4 Helmet Camp - 21,000-21,500 feet made about 20 Sept Yosemite-style climbing at 5 times elevation of Yosemite Valley, 65 degree-70 degree avalanches - at least 8000-9000 feet fixed rope. 6 Tibetan porters BC -> ABC for early part of time, then no other helpers. Several storms meant complete lack of consolidation of snow higher up so not sure wouldn't be slab avalanches and no where to hide above Helmet Camp if big slab avalanche came down and huge avalanche did come down to route of route 22 Sept and convinced Roskelley whole face completely unsafe, but others didn't agree led by Andy Harvard. Lowe had set up Helmet Camp with Macbeth. Above Helmet Camp, Reichardt, Lowe, Reid and Giller explored a bit but no higher camp established. Blum's Everest Expedition AMREE members in KTM 4-6 Aug 1981 said: Blum team leave US about 16 Aug, fly to Lhasa, reached BC within about a week. Kennedy dropped out as member because of danger on East Face; definitely will climb East Face. Reichardt is still climbing leader. Talked with him not long before AMREE left USA. Scott Macbeth - 9 Dec 80 Leave SFO early Aug BC at 17,500 ft about 7 Sept up Kharta Valley's end Dump just before rock buttress 5 hours from fixed camps up face Route up East Face to SE Ridge between Col and Hillary Step.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446953
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard Charles Blum M 1935 USA Leader San Francisco, California Investment banker Details Other expeditions
Louis French (Lou) Reichardt M 1942 USA Climbing Leader - Professor of physiology at the University of California Details Other expeditions
John Fenton Charles Roskelley M 1948 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Photojournalist Details Other expeditions
James Dell (Jim) Morrissey M 1936 USA Exp Doctor Stockton, California Cardio-thoracic surgeon Details Other expeditions
George Henry Lowe M 1944 USA Climber Aurora, Colorado Physicist Details Other expeditions
Christopher Alan G. (Chris) Jones M - USA Climber - Author of 'Climbing in North America' Details Other expeditions
Andrew Carson Harvard M 1949 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Eric S. Perlman M 1950 USA Climber San Francisco, California Author Details Other expeditions
J. Bruce McCubbrey M - USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Scott MacBeth M - USA Climber - Geologist Details Other expeditions
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Climber Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Gary Henry Bocarde M 1945 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Kurt Diemberger M 1932 Austria Climber Salzburg, Austria Photographer Details Other expeditions
Susan Ann (Sue) Giller F 1946 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine & skiing instructor Details Other expeditions
Edmund Percival Hillary M 1919 New Zealand Member Auckland, New Zealand Apiarist & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Kim A. Momb M 1956 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Daniel Allen (Dan) Reid M 1941 USA Climber Walnut Creek, California Cardio-thoracic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey Craig Tabin M 1956 USA Climber Boston, Massachusetts - Details Other expeditions
Mikael Reynolds M - USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER81303 AAJ Tabin, Geoffrey The Kangshung Face of Everest - 56:101-108 (1982) -
EVER81303 AAJ Harvard, Andrew - - 55:307 (1981) -
EVER81303 - Tabin, Geoff Blind Corners ICS Books, Merville, IN - T295
EVER81303 MM - - - 83:9 (Jan 1982) -
EVER81303 DAV Diemberger, Kurt Mount Everest-die Letzte Wand - 107:115-125 (1982-83) -
EVER81303 NGS Harvard, Andrew The Forgotten Face of Everest National Geographic Magazine 166-1:70-77 (July 1984) -
EVER81303 - Hillary, Edmund & Hillary, Peter Two Generations Hodder & Stoughton, London - H322
EVER81303 - Hillary, Edmund & Hillary, Peter Ascent Doubleday, New York - H322
EVER81303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198210100/The-Kangshung-Face-of-Everest - - -