Everest | 1981 W Cwm-W Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Everest in 1981 via W Cwm-W Ridge, led by Russell Brice. Summit reached on 5th October 1981. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1782
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER81302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Cwm-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Russell Brice
Sponsor New Zealand Everest Expedition 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-09-13
Summit Date 1981-10-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 29
Termination Date 1981-10-12
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7770m due to fierce winds
High Point (m) 7770
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,5250m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7010m),C4(02/10,7500m),xxx(05/10,7770m)
Route Notes BC 13 Sept - 17,220 ft C1 17 Sept - 20,000 ft same altitude as AMREE C2 20 Sept - 21,000 ft (camp next to AMREE) C3 24 Sept - 23,000 ft just below shoulder's top C4 2 Oct - 24,600 ft on West Ridge Route: thru Khumbu Icefall and into Western Cwm, then up West Shoulder (same as US 1963) and onto North Face and into Couloir. Highest point reached was 25,000-25,500 feet in Hornbein Couloir on 5 Oct. 2 New Zealanders and 2 Sherpas trying to get to C5 and make summit push 26,200 feet. Next day but very windy as had been since 28 Sept and gave up. 150 mph wind at C3 where more during stormy 28th might blow tent and couldn't sleep, holding tent. 6 Oct went from C4 to BC in one day. Sent Sherpas back up on 8 Oct to clear C2; storm of 28th flattened C2. "Felt were getting into shit, we weren't looking after Sherpas good enough" and were making it so hard ourselves, wasn't safe for Sherpas if they slipped. Sherpas not able enough to climb above without fixed ropes." Brice and Freaney got frosted up slightly on day of storm. Never used oxygen although had it with them in C4 and were taking it to C5 for Freaney to use above C5; no accidents. Not technically difficult, "just gut-busting." C4 7500m 2 Oct; could not go beyond camp because high wind so descended to BC 7 Oct; abandoned 6 Oct. C4 made by 2 members and 2 Sherpas; good health. Brice - 17 Aug 81 Arrived 15th, leave KTM 20 or 21 Aug and walk to Khumbu arrived BC about 12 or 13 Sept. Will have 4 or 5 camps above BC regardless of route. Prefer climb through Icefall and then up shoulder if Americans agree. Would mean not having difficult climb to Lho La and Sherpas can go higher. 4-5 weeks climbing; won't be able to last much longer. Will go via Hornbein Couloir in both directions probably. If the weather is kind one maybe will get there but one chances are not very great.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446954
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w cwm-w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Russell Reginald Brice M 1952 New Zealand Leader Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
William C. (Paddy) Freaney M 1938 New Zealand Deputy Leader Christchurch, New Zealand Restaurant owner Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER81302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:215 (1982) -
EVER81302 NZAJ Freaney, Paddy Everest: Weste Ridge '81 - 35:55-59 (1982) -
EVER81302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221501/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Attempt - - -