Everest | 1981 N Col-NE Ridge

A France expedition to Everest in 1981 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Jean-Claude Marmier, Pierre Astorg. Summit reached on 15th May 1981. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1833
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER81101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean-Claude Marmier, Pierre Astorg
Sponsor French Military Expedition to Qomolungma
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Rongbuk Glacier
Basecamp Date 1981-03-03
Summit Date 1981-05-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 73
Total Days 90
Termination Date 1981-06-01
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8550m due to continuing bad weather
High Point (m) 8550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 28
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 13
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/03,5200m),C1(5600m),C2(6000m),C3(6500m),C4(03/04,7020m),C5(21/04,7600m),C6(13/05,8250m),xxx(15/05,8550m)
Route Notes The 28-man French Army party, led by Jean-Claude Marmier attempted the original NE Ridge route in Spring. A four-man reconnaissance party had been sent a year before to 7000m. The climb to N Col was disturbed by a storm on 14th April. N Col (7020m) was reached on 3rd, but C4 there was made later. C5 (7600m) was occupied on 1 May. The 1st summit bid was attempted by leader Marmier, Robert Flematti and Herve Sachetat on 13th. But they had to descend from C6 by high winds. The 2nd bid on 15th by Denis Ducroz, Jean-Claude Mosca, Bernard Prudhomme and Pierre Royer was disturbed by storm. Mosca and Royer stayed at C6 for three days and reached a high point of 8550m on 18th, but they had to descend by bad weather. The third bid was attempted on 27th. Hubert Giot, Mosca and Sachetat regained a high point of 8550m, but they were suffered by storm again. A bivouac at 8500m was forced that night. They abandoned further climb due to the continuing bad weather and returned to C3 next day. BC was evacuated on June 1.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446811
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean-Claude Marmier M 1944 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Lieutenant Colonel Details Other expeditions
Pierre Astorg M - France Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Robert Flematti M 1942 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & helicopter pilot Details Other expeditions
Herve Sachetat M - France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Denis Ducroz M 1949 France Climber Les Praz, Haute-Savoie, France Cameraman & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Claude Mosca M - France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Bernard Prudhomme M - France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Pierre Alain Royer M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Hubert Giot M 1954 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Alain Esteve M 1952 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Infantry Captain (helicopter pilot) Details Other expeditions
Jean Seguier M - France Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER81101 AAJ Marmier, Jean-Claude - - 56:286-287 (1982) -
EVER81101 AAJ Marmier, Jean-Claude - - 55:307 (1981) -
EVER81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198228602/Asia-China-Everest-Attempt - - -