Everest | 1980 Lho La-W Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1980 via Lho La-W Ridge, led by Alan Rouse. Summit reached on 17th January 1981. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1850
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER80402
Peak ID EVER
Year 1980
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 Lho La-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Alan Rouse
Sponsor British Winter Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1980-12-06
Summit Date 1981-01-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 42
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1981-01-30
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/12,5500m),C1(15/12,6100m),C2(02/01,6860m),C3(15/01,7160m),xxx(17/01,7300m)
Route Notes Joe Tasker - 11 Feb 81 Only two climbers, Tasker and Ad Burgess, who were fit and able to climb in the end. Others were sick with stomach problems, coughs, etc. Joe and Ad would have carried on if there had been anyone to back them up. Winter weather is whole different scene in Hamalayas climbing, like alpine-style 20 years ago. Joe wants to come again in winter. Rouse - 10 Feb 81 C1 Lho La, 20,000 feet, West end in ice cave C2 North Face, 22,500 ft, tents destroyed early in expedition by winds and now reestablished. C3 just below 23,500 feet top of shoulder in crevasse. Went above C3 but never good enough weather to reach C4 site; reached 24,000 feet, but always had wind. Ad Burgess and Joe Tasker once reached there in January. Rouse lost 26 lbs (more than any others), was ill a month with stomach trouble. Rouse arrived KTM today, others came tomorrow. Avalanche weather for winter: "need good luck to climb it." Would have needed two more camps to get to top and then several days of good weather (no wind); perhaps two weeks. 30 lbs rucksacks blown onto side of Lho La by wind last week. Gave up attempt really about 1st Feb without formal decision. In Dec good to climb up to 23,000 feet but after that winter waste of time. Poles must have lucky with wind and were used to winter. No accidents or frostbite. John Porter - 3 Feb 81 Left BC Fri 30 Jan and arrived KTM today, Paul Nunn comes tomorrow - both from Lukla. Winds and illness were 2 worse problems. 4 fit people arriving at BC and only 2 by 30: Joe Tasker and Ad Burgess. Rouse very ill arriving BC and never recovered from stomach and cough. Wind: had to crawl across Lho La probably following Yugoslav route; their ropes found here and there; many also went over to Hornbein Couloir. If expedition doesn't get much further this week, will probably quit. C1 - 15 Dec 20,000 feet C2 - 28 Dec 22,000 feet C3 - about 15 Jan 23,500 feet C4 - to be at 24,000 C4 - 26,000 Biv above C5 Alan Rouse - 7 Nov 80 Climbing without oxygen and light weight means have to get acclimatized and fit. 6 members including, 3 camera crew, leave KTM 13 Nov walking in. 4 more arrive 19th Nov and fly to Lukla and meet in Namche/Khumjung and together go to BC directly and then start climb. From BC to Lho La with camp at one end or other depending on seracs; other camp at very top of shoulder. Expect to rope route on shoulder but not above shoulder. Bivs between camp and top. No Sherpas above BC. Want to climb without oxygen but if get very high and could climb it only with oxygen would use it if have it. Don't expect to use it. Oxygen its really for protecting against cold. We have face masks to warm breath before it comes in. Aim to get acclimatized and fit and make rush to top; if failed twice would probably take one oxygen bottle each. Re Hornbein Couloir: will see what conditions are on mountain; might go up it. 13 Nov 81 Bought 16 oxygen bottles and 4 sets from Dhaulagiri expedition. Rouse - 10 Nov 80 Had some 2nd thoughts once in Nepal extreme cold and wind continued; without oxygen can't survive, require oxygen to make yourself survive; have new one piece suits. No oxygen left from brain and heart requirements so body stops body from shivering. Everest winter 1980-1 Alan Rouse Joe Tasker Brian Hall John Porter Paul Nunn Alan Burgess Adrian Burgess Dr. Peter Thexton West Ridge via Lho La 0 Sherpas above BC 5 oxygen bottles
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446692
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) lho la-w ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Brian P. Hall M 1951 UK Climber Kendal, Cumbria, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Allen Jewhurst M 1950 UK Film Team Leeds, W Yorkshire, England Film director Details Other expeditions
Paul James Nunn M 1943 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Lecturer in economic history at Sheffield Polytechnic Details Other expeditions
John E. Porter M 1946 UK Climber Millom, Cumbria, England Government officer (with development commission) Details Other expeditions
Graham Robinson M 1954 UK Film Team Harrogate, N Yorkshire, England Film sound recordist Details Other expeditions
Alan Paul (Al) Rouse M 1951 UK Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mike Shrimpton M 1945 UK Film Team Tockwith, Yorkshire, England Film cameraman Details Other expeditions
Joseph Thomas (Joe) Tasker M 1948 UK Climber Hope, Sheffield, England Proprietor of a climbing-equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Peter W. Thexton M 1953 UK Exp Doctor London, England Physician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER80402 AAJ Porter, John - - 56:212-214 (1982) -
EVER80402 - Tasker, Joe Everest, The Cruel Way Eyre Methuen, London - T24
EVER80402 MM - - - 79:13 (May 1981) -
EVER80402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221203/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-West-Ridge-Attempt-in-Winter - - -